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Yo buddy, straplocks are only $15 (Jay Leno content)

...I appreciate that but if that design needs loctite
they should include it in the package...

Using your logic, every electric bass should include an amp.

Nothing wrong with being not so well versed in the proper use of tools, but to blame that on a manufacturer because you don't know how to use their product is pretty weak.

I've never had to use anything extra on my schaller strap buttons and I've never had one come loose unless I took it off, but I know which tools to use and how to use them to insure they will not come loose, so it's not a matter of a poor design or something not being included in the package, it's a matter of knowing how to properly use what you do get in the package that matters.
 
very weak sauce chief.

I cant begin to count the number of people who have dropped basses from this design flaw. I also cannot count the number of people who say you just have to tighten it before every use. Both are unacceptable to me. I want to install and forget it.


Using your logic, every electric bass should include an amp.

Nothing wrong with being not so well versed in the proper use of tools, but to blame that on a manufacturer because you don't know how to use their product is pretty weak.

I've never had to use anything extra on my schaller strap buttons and I've never had one come loose unless I took it off, but I know which tools to use and how to use them to insure they will not come loose, so it's not a matter of a poor design or something not being included in the package, it's a matter of knowing how to properly use what you do get in the package that matters.
 
My old Westone used to have a DiMarzio quick-release strap on it. It worked fine once it was installed, but it didn't look very nice, and only the nylon DiMarzio strap worked with it. Because of minor neck dive and comfort I put the old buttons back on and use a wide suede leather strap.

STPDM220BK.jpg


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I also dislike the fact that Schallers come with smaller screws than the stock screws in my VM Jaguar, and I'm not going to start stuffing toothpicks into a perfectly good piece of wood.

My Ric came with Schallers already on it from the factory, so I use locks on it. And that's the expensive bass, anyway.
 
What part of the hardware store would one look to find these bad boys? In other words, what are these neoprene washers used for originally?

:hiding: I have no idea what they are actually supposed to be used for! But I've been using them for about 3 or 4 years on all my basses.

In my local hardware store, they're in a section with all kinds of different washers and similar hardware. They're usually in those little boxes attached to pull-out drawers. You open the drawer, lift the lid, and there are various sizes in different sections of the box. The main thing is that you don't want the center hole to be too big. It has to be smaller than the head of the strap button (obviously). It just stretches over the strap button then retains it's original hole-size, thereby "locking" your strap on. I love these things. I sold 6 or 7 sets of Schallers after I started using these.
 
very weak sauce chief.

I cant begin to count the number of people who have dropped basses from this design flaw. I also cannot count the number of people who say you just have to tighten it before every use. Both are unacceptable to me. I want to install and forget it.

So because a lot of people don't know how to use the proper tools this makes it the manufacturers fault?

How do you explain the equal (or possibly greater) number of people who've never had an issue with the design?

Is it simply great good luck that we've never wound up with a "defective" part?

I've got a bunch of straps with locks and have never had a single problem with failure to lock, failure to hold, or failure to stay on the strap.

If I was the only one I might say fate had blessed me with good fortune, but it's much simpler than that my friend.

I, and others who have no problems with schaller strap locks know how to properly install them. Those who have problems with those same locks, don't know how to do it right.

So remind me again who's fault is it that some can and some can't make a very simple, straightforward, effective design work?

Send me all the "defective" units you have and I will make them work as intended with no future problems.
 
If you follow the instructions that come with Schaellers, they are highly unlikely to come undone. If you throw them on, finger tighten the nut, and "forget about it", then you're likely to have issues. The only problem with the design is that they aren't idiot proof.
 
I use a fender washer instead of the front strap button. Big washer, small hole, available at any hardware store. I got the idea many years ago, when I played guitar. I had a cheap knockoff teardrop-shaped guitar. No horn for the strap button! The button was at an angle that invited strap droppage. A fender washer fixed the problem. Never dropped the guitar after that, in fact I COULDN'T take the strap off! The same strap is still on there since the late 60s!

These days, I do the same, but I use a razor blade to enlarge the hole so I can just barely get the strap off if I try real hard. Saw a pic of Billy Sheehan and bass, he does the same thing.
 
I don't like strap locks either of many reasons such as using new screws that will tear even bigger hole in the body and cause more problems. The washer system is simple and works really well. Cheap and as a bonus you could put those on as many bass guitars you wish.

Nah, at least on Dunlops the screw isn't any bigger, just longer (or at least goes further into the wood), and if anything that makes it even more secure.
 
They must have edited the video for the internet - it doesn't show the bass drop. One shot she's standing, then a lot of Lambert, then she's on her knees. She seems to fuss with her pedalboard a little, maybe to make it look like she's on her knees for a reason. Then back on her feet after a couple of minutes.

Man, Adam Lambert has gotten so boring since he started recording original music. I remember actually thinking American Idol was interesting when he was doing all those weird covers. Now it's zzzzzzz.........

I'm not a fan anyway, but that was some especially bland music on that clip. Bleh.
 
I nearly had my Lakkie hit the ground last night. While roaming through the audience, getting the crowd clapping during my fiddle players lead break, the nut on my schaller lock came off...and my bass hit my left arm...head towards the floor, before I caught it!:eek: Luckily enough, I had my left arm cradled around the neck, clapping. If I would have had both hands in front of the guitar or over my head clapping, I'd be looking at a broken neck right now.:crying:

Oh yeah, I put lock-tite on both strap lock nuts first thing this morning.
 
I nearly had my Lakkie hit the ground last night. While roaming through the audience, getting the crowd clapping during my fiddle players lead break, the nut on my schaller lock came off...and my bass hit my left arm...head towards the floor, before I caught it!:eek: Luckily enough, I had my left arm cradled around the neck, clapping. If I would have had both hands in front of the guitar or over my head clapping, I'd be looking at a broken neck right now.:crying:

Oh yeah, I put lock-tite on both strap lock nuts first thing this morning.

Well I guess you and I are both one of the idiots mentioned above.
 
I prefer the Dunlop design..I've always found the Schaller's have a tendency to unscrew themselves..


I've used both...the Schallers always tend to come loose. I've come to this conclusion as to why...

The Schaller design has the quick release go around the outside of the strap button, and it works like a wrench to slowly spin the button, making it loosen up. It's physics. Dunlops fit inside the strap button where the friction between the two pieces is more centered and doesn't have the leverage the Schallers have. Think of a tight bolt...it's harder to loosen it with a short wrench. But with a longer wrench, the bolt breaks free easier because it offers more leverage, because it's farther away from the center.
 
I've used both...the Schallers always tend to come loose. I've come to this conclusion as to why...

The Schaller design has the quick release go around the outside of the strap button, and it works like a wrench to slowly spin the button, making it loosen up. It's physics. Dunlops fit inside the strap button where the friction between the two pieces is more centered and doesn't have the leverage the Schallers have. Think of a tight bolt...it's harder to loosen it with a short wrench. But with a longer wrench, the bolt breaks free easier because it offers more leverage, because it's farther away from the center.
I think what you are describing on the Schaller or any strap pin, is an installation issue. There should be a felt or leather washer between the strap in and the body, and the strap pin should be able to rotate slightly. If you use a screw that grabs on the strap pn, then yeah, and turning of the pin turns the screw. Also a midge of any kind of glue in the screw hole will keep the screw in much better and reduce damage to the wood around the screw due to the strengthening effect. For the part that goes on your strap - again, lock-tite or 5 minute epoxy does wonders. If any of the connetions squek, a small wipe of anything oily(chapstick?!) will keep it silent for ages.
 
10 years ago when I used Schaller strap locks, I installed them correctly...just like Dunlops. Never had a problem with Dunlops at all. Not going to add band-aids to cover for a bad design.


I think what you are describing on the Schaller or any strap pin, is an installation issue. There should be a felt or leather washer between the strap in and the body, and the strap pin should be able to rotate slightly. If you use a screw that grabs on the strap pn, then yeah, and turning of the pin turns the screw. Also a midge of any kind of glue in the screw hole will keep the screw in much better and reduce damage to the wood around the screw due to the strengthening effect. For the part that goes on your strap - again, lock-tite or 5 minute epoxy does wonders. If any of the connetions squek, a small wipe of anything oily(chapstick?!) will keep it silent for ages.