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Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by alder, Oct 5, 2017.
We'll, since you mentioned tone woods.... just kidding
I'm actually really excited to see how this goes. Looks like a good job so far, an interesting shape(love 80's guitars), and a good looking piece of wood.
Keep us posted.
I’ve like the Eagle for a long time. That’s a nice looking piece of umm..... cutting board?
I’ll be watching this one.
The Eagle has always been my favorite BC Rich body shape. Dig your approach to this build. Looking forward to seeing it take shape.
Can you go into a little more detail on how to properly lay out the neck pocket?
Not about tone woods, but I am sure that board will help the bass cut through the mix!
Seriously though, thanks for doing this detailed write up with pics. We can never have enough documented build threads!
Looks great. I’d go buy a teak cutting board if they weren’t so expensive.
I agree on the spindle sander. For body outlines, I’ve started to really like using a pattern and a Robosander. A little more effort than the router but no tear out.
I'm with you on a the chuck key leash.
I share a car restoration workshop with 5 other guys and anything that can go astray does. The first thing I did was tether a tea spoon near the kettle, we have several but at least you can always find one now (even if it does need wire brushing). Next up was the chuck key to the pillar drill and the mains electric drill has the chuck key zip tied to the cable.
So far so good. Have you thrown that thing on a scale yet? Curious to see what it weighs in the white...
I believe they used Dimarzio pickups in the early days and “dual sound”is, I believe, what their wiring instructions still call series/parallel switching on the humbuckers.
I've found that oily woods can mess with oil finishes. I used cocobolo for a fretboard and continued it with a laminate on the headstock. I finished the bass with Formby's Tung oil (which is not really tung oil). The tung oil on the headstock never dried, it just turned into a sticky mess. I finally wiped it off, polished it up as best I could then put some wax on it, the finish on the headstock wasn't quite the same luster as the body, but it was close.
If you don't want a sticky mess with Danish oil, don't let it dry on the surface. The idea is to wipe it on and keep the wood wet with the oil, adding more as it is absorbed into the wood. When it stops absorbing into the wood, wipe off the excess. After letting it dry sufficiently you can apply more. Doing it this way I've never had any stickiness at all.
Edit: forgot to add ... as it is drying, some oil may seep out, make sure to wipe that oil of the surface.
You may have to be crazy but it looks wonderful.....
From a tradition of free Masoniters since George A. Washington. George (or honest Abe, as his friends came to call him after an incident with a cherry SG,) used to build his Danelectros from the old growth Masonite trees that were hewn to make way for his namesake city, Lincoln, NE.
:End fun fact.
You said that oak is a non-starter for building instruments. Out of curiosity, why is that? The weight, or ?
Or did it do REALLY bad on it's tap test?
Very inspiring. Thank you!
I was only kidding about the tap test. Thanks for the good explaination!
great work. Looks beautiful!
Want to hear some clips, now
Love a repurposing build!!
And thumbs-up for thumb rest!!
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