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Whats up I am new to the forums and have been enjoying and contributing to our bass community. Played for 35 years done a lot of road stuff mainly play fenders gibsons and rickenbackers. I try to toss some humble knowledge whenever I can, and also encourage and praise the player as far as gear and technique. If I cant help I know someone who can and will share that!
Thanks everyone keep on bassin'

Tampak said:

Sounds awesome!!!! LOVE the tone!!! Where can I find more of your music? Great stuff! And yeah, I was not planning on buying it. I am waiting for a 5 string. But I am so happy I did!!!!

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Thank you very much. I have two albums with the band Fina Dupa on Spotify (and all the other streamers) - Login to view embedded media
Both suffer a bit from the production approach the narcissistic bandleader took, but I thought the songwriting was good. Especially on the second album “Are You Happy Now?” This band won Best Denver Funk Band in 2007 from the local indie newspaper, though our music was indulgent and we played for the bar staff a lot.

There’s a lot of video on my YouTube channel too - Will Greer

I played a maple Pedulla MVP 5 two weeks ago and loved it!

Here's a video demo of the Brooks EXB-5.
First part of the demo is finger style walking bass across all 5 strings. Without any effects.
Second part of the video is pick style riffing on the B and E string. With a heavy distortion plus compressor (Tech 21 DP)


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I have an upper part DB bridge like you but haven‘t it used yet. Was planned for a 5-string Clevinger EUB or a Stagg. You cannot do much about the legs except glueing some wood on if the height allows it. You can get a bit more height by putting a thin shim into the inner neck pocket. But not nearly enough for a real DB bridge. I hardly use my Staggs now (except for holiday traveling or as a backup for my Clevinger), so the motivation to change the bridge is rather low.

Bridge feet support left-right movement when bending, heart and wing cuts support turning of the bridge crown around the smallest width (axis top down through the bridge at the middle of the bridge wing cuts) and a thin bridge (top) helps the bridge with turning movement around an axis orthogonally to the top area.

That’s what a bass luthier told me.

A resonance cavity is good, specially if you want to bow.
I don‘t know both models well enough to say anything more.

LadyLoveStingRay5 said:

If anyone is looking for one . No affiliation. Might be a great deal on a rare sought after Bossa.

https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Bossa/Used-2000s-Bossa-TUJB5-TIGERS-BURL-2-COLOR-BURST-GLOSS-Electric-Bass-Guitar.gc?customer_id=221-965-2806&source=4WWRWXGP&utm_medium=paid-search&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=GC_G_NTM_PLA-PMX_Bass_U&utm_term=122358437&utm_content=pla&utm_id=18631752625&utm_creative=&utm_marketing_tactic=bass&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=18628321188&gbraid=0AAAAADtcCuz7x8sT_dMGC_fEPB3ex-moj&gclid=CjwKCAjwgO7RBhBKEiwAZNP85jRewvOcm2KIVOt5008Tk6u0nVyJUw5avswu6hwkU_cKwH7tsehBqRoCm7cQAvD_BwE

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The pictures kinda suck so it's hard to see, but this looks like one of the Korean made "tribute" unlicensed Bossas to me

EDIT - definitely a korean made Tribute, and they have it named correctly (the 'T" before UJB5)

markmeeus said:

Hi Everyone,

I recently started to create reductions of classical pieces for solo bass and/or bass with piano. I'm still very much trying to figure out what works and what not, but I really enjoy the process. ( Some of you may know me from my other website bach2bass.com )

I'm sharing this work on my other website bassonata.com, where I hope to release one such a piece every month. (You can subscribe to a mailing list there)

These pieces are mostly created as study material, I believe studying classical pieces can brings me a completely different musical experience as a bass player. And I do think it translates in my overall bass playing. So maybe it will benefit other students too.

Some pieces will be on the difficult side, like this Adagio from Marcello's Oboe Suite:

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other pieces are more easy like the Handel's Largo:

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I'm still working on my recording skills, finding a good tone for this is quite hard ....

You can download most of the scores for free, but I do charge a small fee for the piano parts. (Not sure if I'm breaking any rules here)
porsche rental
Anyway, If you are interested in this, I hope you love it.

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This is a really cool project. There isn't nearly enough classical material adapted specifically for bass, so it's great to see someone putting in the work to make these pieces more accessible to bass players.
I also agree that studying classical music improves overall musicianship, even if your main focus is another genre. Looking forward to seeing what future pieces you release.

BassicJazzy said:

Have they improved those so when the A/C blasts cold air in your face they don't darken? Used to be a real problem in cold climates.

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They must have, as I've never had that problem (although I may have never really run across that situation yet, even though I'm in A/C most of the day at work). They had 2 levels of darkening when I got my glasses, one that didn't darken behind glass (like, when your driving) and one that is supposed to darken behind glass. I got the second one thinking I won't need to change to sunglasses when driving, but they still don't darken when I'm in the car. They do almost immediately when I step out of the car on a sunny day, but nothing much happens when I'm in the car. I still have to change to sunglasses when driving on really sunny days.

Fender1980 said:

Baby Love by The Supremes was recorded in July 1964 according to the DFTMC.com website.

Motown's Home Brew 8 Track went online in early 1965.

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How does he do those ghost notes with one finger? I can play them easily enough but I sure need 2!

Major Seven said:

At a point, they start flexing too much.

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The Warmoth neck with steel reinforcement bars doesn’t have that problem.

fretno said:

I don’t know of any winder that tapes up their p coils. That is precision cut flat work. Either a kit or little guy. Good luck!

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I would tend to agree with you. Google/AI gives this response.

Just had the opportunity to try a Hartwood Satellite Bass lately and figured I’d share some quick thoughts (the bass was actually provided by Gear4Music for the purpose of the review).

Honestly expected a pretty standard budget P-clone, but it’s a bit more interesting than that.

Neck is the main win for me — roasted maple, smooth feel, and mine came with surprisingly good fretwork (no sharp ends, all playable straight away).

It’s not really chasing a vintage Precision tone. It’s more mid-forward and sits in a mix pretty easily (and if you dial that tone knob all the way down and play up near the neck you directly to mud town!), which I actually ended up liking more than I thought I would.

Hardware is fine overall, but the tuners are definitely the weakest part of the whole instrument. Probably the first upgrade I’d do if I kept it long-term.

Overall impression: solid “budget but not boring” bass. Not perfect, but definitely more character than I expected at this price.

Full review here if anyone cares:

Basspaolo said:

I've solved it with a set of La Bella RX SS strings, and I think I've finally figured out what my real issue was with the Dunlop Sb SS strings.
For me, the main problem wasn't their extreme brightness (which can always be tamed with the tone control), but rather their excessive flexibility, making them noisier, clacky and uncontrollable.
I found this especially noticeable when playing with a pick or using a medium-low action.
The La Bellas shave brightness and punch but they feel significantly more stable and controlled.

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I get where you’re coming from, but I don’t share your perception of floppiness with the SuperBrights - flexible yes, but to me close to on a par with the RX. So I went back to your OP and realized you’re talking 40-100’s. My impression of feel for both SB and RX, nickel and steel, is based on 45-125 5 string sets. Yes, Dunlop is a tad softer and considerably brighter in both wraps, but they play similarly IME. Have you considered going up a gauge?

Of course if you’re happy with RX 40-100 you can ignore all this. They’re great underrated rounds, IMO!

Amigoz2k60 said:

I found this old thread yesterday when I was searching for answer for the same question but unfortunately the link for Ibanez wiring diagrams is not working for me so please can anybody help me with the wiring diagram of the VM3 Vari-Mid preamp
ThanEncont

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Amigo encontraste los diagramas?

Bruh we exactly have the same model down to the finish! (Just check my photo).

fourstringbliss said:

Out of the box the action was super high, but I wouldn't expect some guitar tech at Sweetwater to set it up my way - that's my job.

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I also got mine fixed by the available guitar tech for free. Then the string action became satisfyingly low for me.

Other bassists also like my Z3 whenever they see it. They think it's much more expensive than what I paid for.

abethoven said:

I am looking for suggestions on etudes for getting my finger strength and stamina up after having about a year without orchestra... It's not like I didn't practice at all... I just didn't have the pressure of an upcoming performance to inspire any lengthly practice sessions

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COVID was such a drag! But I did Petracchi and a lot of symphony excerpts if anyone is wondering.

Toptube said:

I haven't played the new version of Dragon Skins. The old ones were pretty good. And had a bit more of a focused fundamental clarity in the notes, compared to Elixirs. But, they didn't feel as good to me. The first version of Dragon Skins could be a bit grabby and more abrasive on my fingers. And they didn't last nearly as long as Elixirs. Probably due to being a coated wrap wire. Rather than a finished string which was coated (Elixirs).

Of the currently available Stainless Steel strings: Low-Riders are, IMO, one of the best offerings. If you are looking for Stainless with a more complex midrange and overall, a more interesting tone. And Low-Riders in particular, having interesting things going on, top to bottom. They have detailed low mids, interesting mid-range, crisp/complex high-mids. They are punchy strings, too.

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I have now used both version of the new Dragon Skins. You can find my comments in this thread:

Two nights ago, I put the stainless version of Dragon Skins + on my Carvin Icon 5 (previously were strung with the Quantum Nickel Dargon Skin +. And most recently, had stainless Lo-Riders):

These strings are great.
Even thought they are roundcore: Their action/feel to play, is a lot like Lo-Riders. Which is to say, not a flexible as most of DR's roundcore strings. But, more flexible than many string sets out there.

They have the rich, crisp, punchy quality of Lo-Riders.
Lo-Riders have a lot of barky texture and a complex, snarly vocal quality to them.

These trade-in some of that exaggerated vocal snarl, for more warmth. Which, for this bass, is great. I absolutely adore stainless Lo-riders on my Jaguar Bass (with Lollar T-Bird vintage pickups). But, that bass has a ton of warmth.
This Carvin Icon is naturally more scooped of warmth. And Stainless strings can often feel a bit too cold.

These Dragon Skins + fix that right up. They still growl plenty and do have a lot of loud, high mid bite.. But, they bring a warmer quality (if your EQ is already tuned to emphasize the high mid for other string brands, you may need to relax it). New fave for this bass, and kind of in general.

Otherwise, similar benefits I noted in my posts above, about the Quantum Nickel verskon. They feel really good on my finger tips. And that has been a big problem for me, over recent months. GHS Roundcore Boomers are my fave string for this Carvin Icon. But......I can't play them anymore. My fingers are too sensitive.

Also, these are the most balanced DR strings I have ever played. The tension balance from string to string is quite good. Their website even says so:

• "Fine-tuned tension for optimal comfort and playability"

I can absolutely feel it. GHS balances most of their sets, and I have really appreicated them, for that. Just before these stainless Dragon Skins, I had Stainless DR Lo-riders on here. And those Lo-Riders are not as balanced as these. And In the past I have used a couple of sets of Fat Beams, the balance on those is pretty bad, with a pretty floppy E.

So------hey, new favorite string. Very cool.

Some final comments: These have more definition in the high notes, high up the neck, than the quantum nickel version. Whatever is going on with this stainless version, its a winner.

The elephant in the room is DR is still winding their strings for 37.5 inch So as always, you may have problems with the E String, on Fender 4 string basses. And the B string is completely incompatible with my Carvin Icon bass. Which is really stupid. I wish DR would bother to optimize their winding length.

TOOL460002 said:

Going to zombie this thread for a sleeve/coverup in progress:
View attachment 7012302
I am quite happy with things. Coming along swimmingly!
View attachment 7012298
And the outside:
View attachment 7012301
Got 2 more appts this year. Probably finish next summer.

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This has taken a bit but I do believe this one is done. Over 100hrs on a double cover up. Definitely going to expand on it.

You might want to try out some of the suggested starting settings that we provided in the owner’s manual.

Drucifer said:

I thought it sounded good for the gig. That was one of the last gigs I played, I had some hand problems and I had carpal tunnel release surgery on both hands later last year. I haven't been able to play since then, but I am hoping to ease back into it soon. Gear hasn't been my priority for a while, unfortunately.

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I hope you heal quickly and thoroughly!

godofthunder59 said:

I actually modded a '93 Ric bridge years ago, rather artfully cut out the mute section.

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That works on the new V2 bridge too.

dabbler said:

BUT, add a zero fret and the open string and the fretted string will transfer roughly the same amount of vibration to the neck.

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Amen. More consist tone with a zero fret versus a nut because the surfaces are nearly identical.