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fretno said:

I don’t know of any winder that tapes up their p coils. That is precision cut flat work. Either a kit or little guy. Good luck!

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I would tend to agree with you. Google/AI gives this response.

Just had the opportunity to try a Hartwood Satellite Bass lately and figured I’d share some quick thoughts (the bass was actually provided by Gear4Music for the purpose of the review).

Honestly expected a pretty standard budget P-clone, but it’s a bit more interesting than that.

Neck is the main win for me — roasted maple, smooth feel, and mine came with surprisingly good fretwork (no sharp ends, all playable straight away).

It’s not really chasing a vintage Precision tone. It’s more mid-forward and sits in a mix pretty easily (and if you dial that tone knob all the way down and play up near the neck you directly to mud town!), which I actually ended up liking more than I thought I would.

Hardware is fine overall, but the tuners are definitely the weakest part of the whole instrument. Probably the first upgrade I’d do if I kept it long-term.

Overall impression: solid “budget but not boring” bass. Not perfect, but definitely more character than I expected at this price.

Full review here if anyone cares:

Basspaolo said:

I've solved it with a set of La Bella RX SS strings, and I think I've finally figured out what my real issue was with the Dunlop Sb SS strings.
For me, the main problem wasn't their extreme brightness (which can always be tamed with the tone control), but rather their excessive flexibility, making them noisier, clacky and uncontrollable.
I found this especially noticeable when playing with a pick or using a medium-low action.
The La Bellas shave brightness and punch but they feel significantly more stable and controlled.

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I get where you’re coming from, but I don’t share your perception of floppiness with the SuperBrights - flexible yes, but to me close to on a par with the RX. So I went back to your OP and realized you’re talking 40-100’s. My impression of feel for both SB and RX, nickel and steel, is based on 45-125 5 string sets. Yes, Dunlop is a tad softer and considerably brighter in both wraps, but they play similarly IME. Have you considered going up a gauge?

Of course if you’re happy with RX 40-100 you can ignore all this. They’re great underrated rounds, IMO!

Amigoz2k60 said:

I found this old thread yesterday when I was searching for answer for the same question but unfortunately the link for Ibanez wiring diagrams is not working for me so please can anybody help me with the wiring diagram of the VM3 Vari-Mid preamp
ThanEncont

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Amigo encontraste los diagramas?

Bruh we exactly have the same model down to the finish! (Just check my photo).

fourstringbliss said:

Out of the box the action was super high, but I wouldn't expect some guitar tech at Sweetwater to set it up my way - that's my job.

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I also got mine fixed by the available guitar tech for free. Then the string action became satisfyingly low for me.

Other bassists also like my Z3 whenever they see it. They think it's much more expensive than what I paid for.

abethoven said:

I am looking for suggestions on etudes for getting my finger strength and stamina up after having about a year without orchestra... It's not like I didn't practice at all... I just didn't have the pressure of an upcoming performance to inspire any lengthly practice sessions

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COVID was such a drag! But I did Petracchi and a lot of symphony excerpts if anyone is wondering.

Toptube said:

I haven't played the new version of Dragon Skins. The old ones were pretty good. And had a bit more of a focused fundamental clarity in the notes, compared to Elixirs. But, they didn't feel as good to me. The first version of Dragon Skins could be a bit grabby and more abrasive on my fingers. And they didn't last nearly as long as Elixirs. Probably due to being a coated wrap wire. Rather than a finished string which was coated (Elixirs).

Of the currently available Stainless Steel strings: Low-Riders are, IMO, one of the best offerings. If you are looking for Stainless with a more complex midrange and overall, a more interesting tone. And Low-Riders in particular, having interesting things going on, top to bottom. They have detailed low mids, interesting mid-range, crisp/complex high-mids. They are punchy strings, too.

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I have now used both version of the new Dragon Skins. You can find my comments in this thread:

Two nights ago, I put the stainless version of Dragon Skins + on my Carvin Icon 5 (previously were strung with the Quantum Nickel Dargon Skin +. And most recently, had stainless Lo-Riders):

These strings are great.
Even thought they are roundcore: Their action/feel to play, is a lot like Lo-Riders. Which is to say, not a flexible as most of DR's roundcore strings. But, more flexible than many string sets out there.

They have the rich, crisp, punchy quality of Lo-Riders.
Lo-Riders have a lot of barky texture and a complex, snarly vocal quality to them.

These trade-in some of that exaggerated vocal snarl, for more warmth. Which, for this bass, is great. I absolutely adore stainless Lo-riders on my Jaguar Bass (with Lollar T-Bird vintage pickups). But, that bass has a ton of warmth.
This Carvin Icon is naturally more scooped of warmth. And Stainless strings can often feel a bit too cold.

These Dragon Skins + fix that right up. They still growl plenty and do have a lot of loud, high mid bite.. But, they bring a warmer quality (if your EQ is already tuned to emphasize the high mid for other string brands, you may need to relax it). New fave for this bass, and kind of in general.

Otherwise, similar benefits I noted in my posts above, about the Quantum Nickel verskon. They feel really good on my finger tips. And that has been a big problem for me, over recent months. GHS Roundcore Boomers are my fave string for this Carvin Icon. But......I can't play them anymore. My fingers are too sensitive.

Also, these are the most balanced DR strings I have ever played. The tension balance from string to string is quite good. Their website even says so:

• "Fine-tuned tension for optimal comfort and playability"

I can absolutely feel it. GHS balances most of their sets, and I have really appreicated them, for that. Just before these stainless Dragon Skins, I had Stainless DR Lo-riders on here. And those Lo-Riders are not as balanced as these. And In the past I have used a couple of sets of Fat Beams, the balance on those is pretty bad, with a pretty floppy E.

So------hey, new favorite string. Very cool.

Some final comments: These have more definition in the high notes, high up the neck, than the quantum nickel version. Whatever is going on with this stainless version, its a winner.

The elephant in the room is DR is still winding their strings for 37.5 inch So as always, you may have problems with the E String, on Fender 4 string basses. And the B string is completely incompatible with my Carvin Icon bass. Which is really stupid. I wish DR would bother to optimize their winding length.

TOOL460002 said:

Going to zombie this thread for a sleeve/coverup in progress:
View attachment 7012302
I am quite happy with things. Coming along swimmingly!
View attachment 7012298
And the outside:
View attachment 7012301
Got 2 more appts this year. Probably finish next summer.

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This has taken a bit but I do believe this one is done. Over 100hrs on a double cover up. Definitely going to expand on it.

You might want to try out some of the suggested starting settings that we provided in the owner’s manual.

Drucifer said:

I thought it sounded good for the gig. That was one of the last gigs I played, I had some hand problems and I had carpal tunnel release surgery on both hands later last year. I haven't been able to play since then, but I am hoping to ease back into it soon. Gear hasn't been my priority for a while, unfortunately.

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I hope you heal quickly and thoroughly!

godofthunder59 said:

I actually modded a '93 Ric bridge years ago, rather artfully cut out the mute section.

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That works on the new V2 bridge too.

dabbler said:

BUT, add a zero fret and the open string and the fretted string will transfer roughly the same amount of vibration to the neck.

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Amen. More consist tone with a zero fret versus a nut because the surfaces are nearly identical.

That is stunning! Congrats on your new guitar! Play it in good health and have fun!

Since you only play out a few times a year, eliminating ‘what could go wrong’ would be a big factor for me. The DI approach is much safer. While I much prefer an active DI for the clarity, a passive DI is safer - I’d bring both and start with the active. Using the amp, especially with a ‘Post’ DI opens up a bunch of options which gets you either not heard or turned down in the mix. For example, you turn up, sound guy doesn’t want to deal with you so turns you way down. Or, there’s a never happened before ground loop buzz. If I only got to perform every 4 months I’d be heart broken if one of those fluke things happened and ruined it for me.

Well, replacing parts isn't that hard part... replacing the CORRECT part is.

Without proper troubleshooting, there's no way to know what is actually the cause (it's probably NOT the jack itself). If you aren't a noob with electronics, you already know this and have the proper equipment and knowledge needed to do the actual troubleshooting. There's only about 20 components on those models that are part of the DI circuit.

johnnydi said:

Oh WOW! its the exact same 5 and 9 as mine. Most likely the same guy who wrote in mine. Looks like when he started writing the 7 on mine. Part of the top bar of the seven didn't quite write. Maybe due to rough wood. Yours doesn't seems to have any finish overspray in the cavity. Is that an optical illusion?

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The base is not mine. It's a picture of one that the guitar broker had for sale. A couple of months ago, he actually had an early 59 with a Maple board. And this one with rosewood board. He was unsure of the date as well. And I told him what I knew about when everything changed, and we sort of came to the agreement that this was probably from the 1st month. Of the cavalry route changed
I'm not sure about the overspray. I think it's possible that since the blonde finish is translucent. That the numbers just may have bled through in the pickup cavity
If I recall correctly, it was an original finish.

Goatrope said:

View attachment 7517718
Pass-through Mode 1?

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The ST-300 Mini does not have this pass-through mode, it's only available on the full-size version of the pedal.

Korg DT10 is the sweet spot for me. Accurate enough for intonation / setups, very fast tracking, display reads out however you want it to (notes, string number, half steps down x4, very easy to see on bright outdoor stages, incredibly durable, reliable, no change to your fundamental tone, a thru bypass, tuner mute, and can still be found cheap on the used market.

They are the absolute best in my book.

Damn it!

Dr. Cheese said:

I remember, years ago, playing a 1959 Precision that blew me out of the water. I would love to compare the Fender side by side to the Fodera Monarch I played yesterday. People talk about vintage basses with mojo, but I think Fodera knows how to put mojo in every bass they make.

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Fenders with mojo: 1/100

Music Man’s with mojo: 3/4

Fodera/Smith/Mtd’s with mojo 1/1 hahah

Necrothread.

Seeing fender release the Jamerson bass has inspired me to give these strings another try. Last time was a few years go, and I didn’t stick with them long enough for them to break in. I’m a much better player now, and I feel pretty confident that I can mke them work. I have them on a AVII pbass for that funk machine look.

badsneakers said:

Through body will have a tighter feel so I'm thinking I could get away with a 130 set pretty good.. though a 125 would be preferable. I'll ordered a ballanced set through d addario probably and in did look at their calculator but that didn't tell the story of the thru body.

Thoughts? Other than maybe this should've been posted in strings? Lol

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If you go with the afterlength argument which works on the other end of the strings, through body strings should have a looser feel. However, my experiences with basses where the lowest string was through body and the others top loading never resulted in a noticeable difference in feel of the strings - strings just don't slip much at the bridge end. If I were you, i wouldn't worry about through body or top load.

A 95 E and a 130 B have the same tension (about 35 pounds on a 34 inch scale)- most 5 string sets have "floppy B's" because the B string is too small. If you're going shorter in scale, that lowers tension, which makes the floppiness more pronounced - go lower than 130 for a B on a 32, and it'll absolutely be flop city. But....for C# at 32 (a full step up in tuning more than overcomes the shorter scale which is equivalent to a half step down), a 120 will land you at about 35 pounds tension, which I consider decent, but I like low tension. You might like a string that's a bit bigger.

I've had some left arm and thumb issues since Christmas that have prevented me playing.

I work at a music store and found that the Taylor GS Mini bass was playable for me. I can do three fret stretches without needing my thumb on the back of the neck which hasn't been possible on even short scale basses (30" scale) lately.
The main problem (aside from the cost of them here at $1700 NZd) is they sound horrible plugged in. I tried a cheaper Cordoba version and it too sounded horrible.

I got the UBass Solid Body (black with white pick guard) shipped from one of our other stores to try out and I'm blown away by the quality of this for the price. I get a 25%staff discount so only paid $371 (NZd ..... around $210 USd).

pingvuiini said:

the pocket frets are so nice that it seems a shame to pull them out

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I agree.
Can't believe that they put in the effort on such a cheap bass...... it's rare to see this type of fret work on an instrument costing thousands of $$$

KJung said:

Even has a rotary truss rod adjustment, which is the best in my opinion.

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This too! And it comes with a very good quality gig bag.

Overall the build quality is nearly faultless, particularly at this price point.

I played for a couple of hours with my band on Monday night for the first time in months and while it sounds infinitely better than the acoustic Ubasses and other similarly short scale basses there is a certain lack of attack and harmonics, but overall it was quite good. And best of all, it's allowing me to play again.

The only mod so far is a shielding job yesterday. It was very noisy and the shielding has improved it greatly. I'll probably replace the pots as they look very cheap.

I tried making a b/w/b pick guard yesterday, got the outline really good and then proceeded to muck up the pickup cutout.... there's two hours wasted. I've ordered some black car wrap vinyl and will try that when it arrives.