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Beej said:

Bruce's idea of checking out kerf widths on saws at the store is probably the simplest solution, but there are also saw tools made to bend the teeth side to side to adjust the set of the saw blade. This is a Lee Valley Veritas, so it's spendy, but there are cheap ones available on amazon and the like, probably with associated quality.

Veritas Saw Set - Lee Valley Tools

Veritas Saw Set

www.leevalley.com

Full disclosure, I've used these on large handsaws when I learned carpentry at school in the late 80s, but I don't personally own a saw set tool, and have never tried one on the tiny teeth of a fretting saw.

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Hey Beej;

Yes, you can adjust the kerf width of a saw by setting the teeth. And you don't need a fancy Saw Set tool. They are really made for big coarse-tooth hand saws.

I use a technique with pliers, a Sharpie, feeler gauges, and a smooth-jaw machinist's vise to adjust the set of the teeth on my circular StewMac slotting blades in my power fret saw. I adjust them to cut the slots exactly 0.023" wide. The same technique could be used on a straight hand saw, to set it to cut whatever width you want.

Basically, I use small flat jaw pliers to bend each tooth outward, alternating in direction, a little bit wider than they need to be. Then I put the blade in a smooth-jaw machinist's vise and squish them back toward flat. The trick is to put a steel feeler gauge in the vise too, which limits how far they get squished. When you release the vise, the teeth will spring back out about 0.001". I've found by experience that, using a 0.022" feeler gauge, the teeth end up at 0.023".

Here's the post showing the process:

Note that the cathode resistors are 10 ohm 1W, don’t use a higher wattage rating. It is intended that they blow in the event of a problem. It wouldn’t hurt to check D1, D2, D3, and D4, the 1N4007 flyback diodes. The tubes may have tested good but inspect the sockets for cracked or bad solder joints, etc.

Ampeg posted this bias procedure on TB. Check the bias with the 6L6GC tubes installed.


V4BR BIAS INSTRUCTION:
1. CONNECT LOAD TO AMPLIFIER {this can be a speaker cabinet or a dummy load}
2. TURN R16 (BIAS ADJUSTMENT POT) FULLY CCW (MINIMUM SETTING)
3. TURN MASTER CONTROL FULLY CW
4. TURN POWER SWITCH TO ON AND WAIT 2 MINUTES
5. TURN STANDBY SWITCH ON
6. ENSURE THERE IS NOTHING PLUGGED INTO INPUT CHANNELS
7. WAIT 10 MINUTES {I like to wait 30 minutes}
8. MEASURE VDC ACROSS R12, THE CATHODE RESISTOR OF V5
9. ADJUST R16 UNTIL YOU MEASURE 450mVDC ACROSS R12
10. MEASURE VDC ACROSS R13 (V6). SHOULD FALL BETWEEN 400mVDC - 500mVDC
11. REPEAT STEP #10 FOR R14 (V8), THEN R15 (V7)
12. ALL MEASUREMENTS FOR V5, V6, V8, AND V7 SHOULD BE WITHIN 400mVDC -500mVDC
12A)
IF #12 IS TRUE, ENJOY 100W OF V-4B


IF #12 IS FALSE, THE TUBES ARE NOT PROPERLY MATCHED FOR YOUR PRECIOUS V-4B, SO GET NEW ONES.

I also had an original Guild one back in the ‘90s that was white. I must be allergic to whatever the strings were made out of because every time I played it my sinuses would bother me for hours. It was a really fun bass to play so I would just deal with it.

I’m glad I sold it when I did because when the DeArmond ones came out the prices dropped quite a bit.

Try to count and clap along with the track the way your drummer is suggesting (bass i on the ands). Slow it down on youtube a bit if you need. Don't worry about playing along with it on bass until that feels pretty easy. Don't shortcut it. Learning how to count and organize the beat that way in your head is a really good and crucial step in rhythmic fluency

I get alerts. When I open them and click the link it takes me to a thread I participated in, but not to anything I have written or liked. In fact there is usually nothing of mine in the vacinity

C-60 Bass said:

Looking at one of these heads (Evo IV). Many years using the ABM 500 and just want to know how much output, headroom, volume available, thump difference there is - if any? I'm pretty sure the tone id similar but again, any differences? Probably would use it with a BF Super Twin, so a very efficient 4 ohm cab.

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I don't know, but in theory and if everything else is equal, going from 500W to 300W, you only loose roughly 2 decibels.

Luis597 said:

Hi everyone! I'm sharing a RATM bass cover, I hope you like it!

Gear
Bass: Dingwall D Roc Standard
Pedal: Darkglass Anagram

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Pretty good. Something is not quite right with your rhythm during the "verse" ("some of those that work forces, are the same the burn crosses") Sounds like you're rushing part of it each time - a bit out of sync.

Can I join please?

bubba-b said:

dang, that was the tbx from a few years ago that i couldn't pull the trigger on. she's a beaut! if you ever do decide to trade her for a g. gould GGI5 hybrid (maple neck), lmk...

View attachment 7521630

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Love the color! I hear nothing but great things about GGI, several Modulus converts who end up preferring them.

PapaBearBass said:

Awesome and thank you again- I would have never found

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Hey PapaBear… did you receive the bridge? How’s the project coming? I too was wanting to recreate Watt’s bass at one time.

His action looks a bit low to me loll

paddydaddyo said:

I feel certain Phil designed the circuit with a LOT of planning and consideration, so I have a hard time believing he would have offered three "throw away" settings ... which makes me wonder: Am I using it wrong?

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Relsom said:

Good questions. Maybe @Jon Scott can fill us in a little.

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More extensive information on the 9V and the 18V preamps is being compiled and will be posted on the website when it's available.

I have a set of KZ S10 pros. Currently there is a decent Amazon Prime deal on the Pro 2s …

Are they an upgrade for silent rehearsals in a band mix?

Oh, also! IF any of y'all have old homemovies or recordings of television on VHS tapes that you want digitized or don't want anymore, let me know. I would happily digitize them for you if it meant I could then purchase or keep the tape for future recordings like this. I have plenty of tape but what I don't have is already recorded on degraded tape that will have artifacting and bleed through from the lights. The best example of the effect this causes is this cut of a different gig from the same tape

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Steven Quick said:

I have an early prototype TNT head.

The circuit is pretty much a Fender Showman.

I can take some measurements if you want to make a copy of this "Frank Coolie Fender-copy".

SQ

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Hey Steven,
I can measure my TNT and send the results.
This amp has not been played since a re-tube and tune-up in the early 2000's.

The advice of zooberwerx ^^^ is probably the best. But to answer your question, I get that evenness and punch from an MIJ PBass (such as a roadstar 630 or 650 or my 82 Blazer), a Dimarzio style P pickup such as the early 80’s Ibanez’ Maxon copies, a GK RB series amp (400RB, 700RBii, 800RB) and a compact stack of two Bag End S15 cabinets.

This setup has a little grind to the tone, which is one great way to get a balance of warmth and clarity — even though a touch of grind is actually distortion, it comes across in a big rock mix as clarity.

Login to view embedded media Just posted this in the roadstar club thread, but here is a little train beat original at this weekend’s brewery duo gig. You can hear the bass speak in its mid register in the intro, and then I hang out plucking the E and A. I’m plucking gently on the E because of the small room, but you can hear it articulate on the chromatic run back up to the Ab at the chord change. It feels even and clear to me

LowEndLobster said:

View attachment 7363497

Mod complete! The result is ridiculously good. EMG MMWTX in the neck position, MMCSX in the bridge position, ABCX blend control, push pull volume, Trickfish IPA preamp with 90hz bass, 663hz mid, and 6khz treble. Had to drill out the pot holes a little and dremel the pickguard a smidge but otherwise was smooth sailing.

Waiting on the stacked guyker knobs for the bass/treble control

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One popped up on GC used. On its way!

ggvicviper said:

The auction shows us a bass that has darker steel strings with angled shine rather than rounds, and there's blue silk wrap on both ends. Totally Chromes. The video he posted before he gave the bass up also has those strings, and it has that aggressive sound, but with a darker character:

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I'm not sure when he put those strings on the bass, but probably at some point after he stopped using it as his primary recording bass in the middle of the 80's.

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“Yes, I was there”

iiipopes said:

The set does what you want it to do at the price of a set, not the extra cost of buying singles. Hopefully you can find a solution to your E string issue as I did.

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I honestly wasn't aware that that particular set existed. Looks like about a $4 difference over single strings. I have a Dunlop set on the way and will be checking out Newtone strings.

Haven’t looked but this has ‘Canadian’ written all over it!?

I appreciate all the feedback!

Speaking of amp overhang: I've never been comfortable gigging my D-180 or 400+ without a rack case. Some other cases might be narrower or wider, but my old Pearson case is 1-3/4" wider than my 215 Mesa Subway cab.

DuluthDank said:

I just got a used set of NJ4SV's, and I notice they have slightly raised middle poles as well. Were yours the vintage, 7.25 radius or normal radius set? I had expected mine to be flat as they were sold to me as the normal radius, but maybe they all have raised middle poles?

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I believe they all have raised poles but you can always check with Nordstrand.

stingray69 said:

You might look into something like the Zoom MS60B+, it has tons of compressors, preamps (like SansAmp, etc), overdrives, amp sims, EQ's.

It offers all kinds of effects as well, if you like choruses, reverbs, flanger, delays, etc. It's easy to get some great tones, and it doesn't cost a fortune.

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Any used Zoom, for that fact...I use the B3n 'cuz I can actually see the durn display and turn real knobs. 20% of the available FX are actually pretty decent.

Riis

TAKUMARU said:

To be fair, that difference in the low-mids might partly be due to the action. I keep the string height on my '66 set quite a bit higher, whereas the Lull is set up lower. But even when switching to the P4, I was able to tweak the EQ on my rig to get it into a very comfortable ballpark.

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Also, the difference in string height might also mean a difference in how close the strings are to the pickup. They might sound even more alike if you tweaked the pickup height on one or the other.