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BassAgent said:

Really? Nice. Also preset up/down?

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No but there’s a couple ways to approach it. Have one switch activate preset mode, select one of the 4 presets on the mini switches. If you need more than 4 presets at a time then you’ll need a back up and down on the MIDI or QC.

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4StringTheory said:

Finally got my hands on a PB55 with a 1.5" nut width
Big thanks to Jay at Matt's Music Center for helping make it happen.

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I ended up swapping the Lollar SCPB in the PB-55 for a Curtis Novak TB-V. I had described to Curtis that I was looking for a warmer, rounder tone and feel, with a softer attack and fuller low mids, and he recommended the TB-V. After trying it, it was pretty much exactly the direction I was looking for

The TB-V wasn't quite a drop-in replacement, though. The pickup base is shaped slightly differently and needed some minor reshaping to fit the cavity.

ubrowz said:

Already implemented and live. Select a note where you want to start the new time signature. Type the time signature in the "Time" field in the "Song section" and the rest of the song is put in that signature until the place where you change it again. Also adding the time signature at the beginning of the TAB, which was missing.

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Wow. Thank you! Loving it so far! Thank you for sharing!

RWRLV said:

1997 catalog / the net
Alder with Ash Top
Fingerboard Radius- 15"
Frets- 24
Scale Length- 34"
Nut Width- 2.038"
Weight 9.8 lbs (reverb.com)

I currently only have the XB-500, these specs may help you estimate if need be.
XB-500 Specs, my measurements.
The body is 13.500" using widest squared points and it is 1.830" thick.
Nut Width is 1.820" / 1.550" OD strings
0.387" string spacing.
Weight 9.4 lbs.
I hope that helps!

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This is amazingly helpful, thank you so much!

I originally messaged Curtis about the TB-JB for my Nash PB-55, explaining that I was looking for a warmer, rounder tone and feel than the Lollar SCPB, with a softer attack and fuller low mids. I play fingerstyle with La Bella Low Tension Flats, and also asked whether an Alnico 2 version of the TB-JB might better suit what I was after.

His response was basically, "I think first you might try my TB-V, as I think it might be what you are wanting."

So I took his advice and tried the TB-V. He was right. It's warmer and fuller than the Lollar SCPB, with just a little more heft and weight to the notes when I dig in, while still keeping that classic single-coil P character. Pretty much exactly the direction I was hoping to go.

Side note for anyone considering one for a Nash PB-55, it wasn't quite a drop-in replacement. The shape of the pickup base is slightly different and needed some minor reshaping to fit the cavity.

Carlson or Nyman?

flatback said:

Yeah Earl good call on this plug. Having the three possibilities shows the differences unequivocally. Seems to work well on piezos (EAP is less pronounced) Curiously sounded best on the Yama with it all the way on (...even after I noticed that I was using the jack with a cap already installed...maybe my soldering sucked on that)

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Cool! It also has a more subtle effect with the Krivo and Stat B, but really sounds amazing with the Yama and probably most piezos.

BismarckHerring said:

This video just came out yesterday. It’s by bass the world, so take it with a grain of salt. The style of music in the video is not really my thing, but as he says, it’s a good addition to the (excellent) demo videos on the Baum website.

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This thing looks right up my alley. They have 45 day try out period and even pay for the return shipping within Europe. That makes it very tempting to order one. But this model will only be available in January, so I’ll wait and see if I will still want it by then.

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That is a nice looking bass sounds great too. Would like to see a reverse P setup on one of their basses in the future.

DonaldR said:

Another vote for the Joyo BA30. It's the bass amp I played the most in 2026. Sounds good on its own + OTG to connect to your phone/tablet/laptop and use plugins. And has bluetooth. And $100.

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Same for me. I bought it on a whim to replace a Roland Bass Micro cube, and it ended up being the bass amp I use the most at home.

Mine is prone to overdriving the input so I have to turn down the volume on my basses or pedals.

Built in Bluetooth is handy too.

To the OP. . . . I'm an old dog and haven't learnt any new tricks in years. . . . but I upped my game by buying the best gear I could find and that made my old tricks sound better than they ever did!

The neck doesn't need to be for that body, just the correct scale and number of frets. You can check out my fretless build using an Ibanez neck on a Dean body. I reshaped the heel to fit the Dean body and did a lot of other reshaping for cosmetics.
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/nbb-my-franken-6-fretless.1580816/

Guitar Scale Acoustic Basses - How about a 23" scale Mini Double Bass?

So, I have now successfully taken a 200 dollar cello and tuned it to standard E1 bass tuning - using DAddario jazz flatwound guitar strings.

No, it does not have lots of volume. Neither do many acoustic basses. But, it has very good, quiet tone, while giving me stable tuning at E1.

This is on a 3/4, so we are talking 23" scale guitar scale bass - mini double bass.

Next step is a decent pickup, but I will need to wait on that. [post retirement - discretionary spending no longer a given. ]

If it goes well after the pickup, I will probably create a separate thread just for specifics of the parts, in case anyone wants to kick the tires.

I bent the body support (upper part only) so the contact with by body is equally well on upper and lower part (looks a bit strange) and wound rubber foam around the support so it doesn’t slip too easily but doesn’t stick too much either. That way the support doesn’t press too deep into the body.
Sorry, no photo, instrument is a bit far away from me.

Dirk Diggler said:

FYI those Steinberger headless clamps have 2 pins milled into them so they align the clamp properly.
Then it's just pressure that holds it on the neck. Would only require 2 small holes into your existing headpiece.

Not actually drilling into the bass, just the existing headpiece.

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Probably work although I'm not exactly sure what the end of the existing retainer looks like. The pics in the initial post appear to be (1) a standard ball-end retainere and (2) the same retainer with a similar converter (with an upper ridge / lip) butted-up against the distal aspect.

Riis

Ya back a few years ago i had Dave Avenius e-mail direct three or four times just to help take care of an issue,He even sent me some swag of my choice for the trouble.

Couple more pictures of all the bits so far. realised I need to hunt a left hand tuner and figure out how I'm going to fit 5 knobs of gear into 4 holes and a switch. wood should be here in a few days.


think I'm going to use a stingray upper horn. follow pick guards line for the bum. bottom horn might be a bit tricky. keen to get stuck in proper

Greathammer incoming, my go-to drive is a Rusty Box but I find that I need to run it with a crossover pedal to keep the low-end solid. Looking forward to A/B'ing these!

Just got the sonicake octaver for under $50 CAD and yeah... it really takes the cake

Sounds good, tracks well, no gain loss... best of the budget octavers I would think? I'm happy with it.

I’m seeing some apps that play A2. Ampz, ToneRig, NamAUv3 and NamLive. I really like the NamRig player,namrig.com. You can build a pedal, amp, and cab and save it as a preset.

beaglesandbass said:

The issue I see with this is that anywhere a user name is present, it's also a link. Link colors are determined by CSS. I'm not sure if two links in the same set can have different colors. I don't know if the software is smart enough to understand "the profile that this link directs to is less than x days old, so the color of it's link should be y, but only for z days."

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The CSS .class selector selects elements with a specific class attribute value.


I think a feature like this would imply customizing parts of the whole stack, including backend, templates and probably caches. This could then lead to problems later when the forum software that TB uses is being updated from upstream.

RattleSnack said:

1. That wiring recomendation is series, as first single coil pickup has white and black wire, second has green and red. For paralel, you would connect white with green as one side, and black with red as other side.

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Thank you so much for the information! To clarify, it would be something like this? (I hope this table shows up properly!) If so, which is the output and would it be coming directly from the pickup or from one of the toggle poles? If not, please correct it. I'd much rather get it right the first time.

RattleSnack said:

3. For wiring options, my favorite is to keep max flexibility by adding three way switch and have selection: first single, parallel connection, second single. Less used config on high end basses is series/parallel/single, but I think it's less usefull (volume jump when you go to series).

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If it were a bass to keep in my collection, the series volume jump wouldn't bother me. But, as a bass that I'd sell, a smoother transition from one mode to another sounds very attractive. Assuming I keep the ON/ON mini-toggle, even with a preamp, a parallel/single-coil system sounds like the way to go.

As of now, the J/MM pictured above is wired passively as such;

• Neck: push-pull volume pot, controls the Jazz pickup, can switch both pickups to overall series mode.
• Bridge: humbucker volume, does not work when the pickups are in series.
• Tone: standard tone control.
• Mini-toggle: switches the humbucker between series or the rear coil.

When I was wiring it up to the Delano pickups, I checked to see if the front or rear coil sounded any better than the other. Interestingly, there was no noticeable difference, so I just went with the rear coil. If I keep the mini-toggle, I'll check each coil on the Sandberg humbucker to see if one sounds better than the other.

RattleSnack said:

2. Choosing which neck pickup to pair it with IMO depends on how you solve internal switching (previous 2.) But modern standard and most popular ATM (as kind of super Jazz) seems to be a humbucker in form of single jazz bass pickup casing. Also, this kind of setup usualy comes with onboard preamp and active/passive switch.
So if I was assembling a bass for sale, that's what I would do.

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Since Sandberg basses are usually active, and I'd like to let the humbucker shine as much as possible, I'm leaning towards a preamp that can fit into the control channel.

For now, let's assume I decide to go with the Audere preamp. I'd have to figure out which humbucker mode sounds better, series or parallel, and the mini-toggle would have to be kicked to the curb, but there wouldn't be any need for routing out a battery box. That makes it a strong contender, especially if I inflict a K.I.S.S. frame of mind on myself. (re: "Keep It Simple, Stupid!")

In that situation…an Audere 2-band EQ with a blend control and no coil switching…what kind of Jazz pickup sounds right to you? I'm assuming some kind of split-coil, ja?

My Lado sounds too much like EMG's.

Michael,
You're a lifesaver : I didn't know how I was going to manage with the book without the recordings!
Thanks so much.