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Worth messing with an FX25?

Alright, so I got this old, maybe second generation DOD FX25 and it sounds fantastic. So naturally, I opened it up to see what it could do if I started messing around. Turns out, it's very bendable, and there are a number of really interesting sounds it can make of varying use.

So my question is this: are the old FX25s going to go up in value and will circuit bending it decrease said value?
 
What's so much better about the older ones? Is the circuit any different or are the new ones made with cheaper components? Why would they stop making a superior pedal in favor of an inferior one? Is no one cloning these? There are clones of the 440 right? How different are these two?
 
Does it look like one of the ones in the top row of this pic?

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If so, then yes they are going up in value and you might not want to bend it. OTOH "going up in value" means they went from a $25 pedal to a $50 pedal (with occasional excursions as high as $146), so even at the upper end we're not talking about pre-CBS-Fender type vintage value or Schumann Lion rarity.
 
What's so much better about the older ones? Is the circuit any different or are the new ones made with cheaper components? Why would they stop making a superior pedal in favor of an inferior one? Is no one cloning these? There are clones of the MXR 440 right(did I get that right?)? How different are these two?

There are small differences in the actual circuit design of each of the generations they produced. I do think the older ones sound better, but I have been studying the actual circuitboards of all of them for a while and I have no idea why (specifically) one sounds better than the other. Generally the component quality among most of them is not so different, although the last two versions are clearly made with the cheapness. The most common reason a company changes their designs is to improve the cost of production. It costs money just to change a design, so there has to be a very compelling cost savings in the new design to pay for the change as well. I just haven't figured out what the cost savings were in this case.

I'm working on a clone of my oldest one right now. :) But I won't be offering it for commercial sale for a while yet, as I have a lot of heavier stuff to deal with first.

It's a very different sound from the DOD 440.
 
Top right is mine, but with knobs and a battery door.

And just a quick poke around shows that it has a few interesting bends.

Alright, thanks Bongo, I think that settles it: I will bend it. If I end up selling it after I'll report back on the price difference.
 
Does it look like one of the ones in the top row of this pic?

Link Removed

If so, then yes they are going up in value and you might not want to bend it. OTOH "going up in value" means they went from a $25 pedal to a $50 pedal (with occasional excursions as high as $146), so even at the upper end we're not talking about pre-CBS-Fender type vintage value or Schumann Lion rarity.

Hey is there an info page somewhere that has all those pedals listed with the years they were made?
 
Hey Guys:

I have one of the 1st gen units -- it's battered but still works. I bought it on Craigslist a few months ago for 30 bucks!

The footswitch is problematic though - it works, but only in a controlled tap. When trying to actually work it while playing, it often goes off for a brief second and is on again or vice versa. Any hints on how to fix it?

Also, what is your opinion of the bypass?

Thanks,

Col Monk
 
The bypass is "average", not terrible but not great. The switch itself is tricky to fix as it's held by a bracket in the metal housing, so you have to either find the exact replacement switch -good luck!- or do some significant work to attach a different switch somehow.

Best bet IMO is to re-house it in a different box with a 3PDT switch. Although you may find that just spraying some good contact cleaner (like Caig's) into the switch itself and clicking the switch a number of times may resolve any issues if the problem is just dirt or corrosion (very common problem with old switches).
 
The bypass is "average", not terrible but not great. The switch itself is tricky to fix as it's held by a bracket in the metal housing, so you have to either find the exact replacement switch -good luck!- or do some significant work to attach a different switch somehow.

Best bet IMO is to re-house it in a different box with a 3PDT switch. Although you may find that just spraying some good contact cleaner (like Caig's) into the switch itself and clicking the switch a number of times may resolve any issues if the problem is just dirt or corrosion (very common problem with old switches).

Thanks, Bongo. I have some contact cleaner and I'll give that a try. I think it sounds wayyyy better than the FX25B I have.

In your opinion, is the bypass bad enough to warrant a loop or true bypass mod?

I was noticing some tone suck in my rig and removed the FX25 and it *seemed* better. But dammit, it's not easy interrogating your sound for every pedal -- especially when you have 15 or so of them.

Thanks again,

Monk.
 
I had the top left... bought it new back in the day.

Never got the hang of it, very finicky IMO/E

FWIW: Todd Smallie recorded the bassline "I'd Rather Be Blind, Crippled and Crazy" of Derek Trucks Band's "Stonglines" with that one. It's the best filter tone I've heard.

As for the 440... that has been cloned & copied time and time again. The Tonefactor / Mojohand Analogue Fillter 442 is a great take on it.
 
I haven't seen it since about 1994. No clue where it is :atoz:
Thats OK. I bought another one today. Only 90.00 for this one :hyper:

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