Recent content by bassmanbiff

I would like it. I just set my knobs and only change the volume to turn it off -- usually.

With a bit of googling, I found some push-lock pots. Looks like there's a 8mm difference between the lock and popped-up shaft height. check the Model P09X – Rotary Potentiometer at potentiometer.com.

My 5 string Zon Sonus.

Get to 5 as quickly as possible. Women cannot count beyond 5.

two words -- notch filter

Take one of the other screws to a machine shop and have them make another?

It's actually solid-state amps that are more forgiving. What's happening with tubes is that the impedance of the cabinet directly affects the tubes driving it (the impedance is reflected through the transformer to the output tubes).

Just take out the screws that hold the amp part onto the cabinet and look inside. You'll find the fuse holder in there.

The BA-115 I got cheap is worth about what I paid for it. It pops when the the power is turned off -- always a bad sign to me. It's a bit noisy, but sounds pretty reasonable in use. I got it because I can always re-use the cabinet for a project cabinet if/when it fails. Or I might replace the...

To answer your question. Use the speakon cables. The 1/4-speakon adapter is a poor, but useful, solution. You'll probably also want speakon to 1/4" cables to go between amp/cabinet combinations whose connectors differ. As B-String says, replacing the ends on your existing cables is likely the...

I recently found a BA-115HP (the higher power version) for $75. That was about right for it.

because the grounded strings acted as further shielding.

It would be considered buffered because it acts as a pre-amp -- exposing your instrument to its own input characteristics without these being modified by a long cable.

"tapewounds" work great on my fretless

I don't think it's a good idea to put the cab with the drivers up. Too many opportunities for them to be wind-driven or otherwise subject to incidental forces. I always place my cabinets face down.