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10 string bass build

I am looking at pickup placements

upload_2022-4-22_8-21-31.jpeg
 
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I made more progress on the bridge. I still have to cut slots on the bridge.

View attachment 4672776

View attachment 4672778
Interesting. I take it the forward saddle (closest to the nut) is for the octave string, and rear saddle for the bass string? And the idea is to file down the opposite side of either saddle from the string so that other string can pass right over? It's a pretty smart way to get around the complete lack of OTS hardware. I bet you could have the saddles drawn up in a CAD program and then laser cut, too.
 
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Interesting. I take it the forward saddle (closest to the nut) is for the octave string, and rear saddle for the bass string? And the idea is to file down the opposite side of either saddle from the string so that other string can pass right over? It's a pretty smart way to get around the complete lack of OTS hardware. I bet you could have the saddles drawn up in a CAD program and then laser cut, too.

HMMM ... I hadn't thought about the cad laser angle.

I generally take parts and modify them to meet my needs.
 
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A note about intonation adjustment on 10-strings:

On the 10-strings that Keith and I built, I put 10 individual saddles in the bridge. But when it was all built and set up, I was surprised to find that there was very little difference in intonation position between each pair. The B string was about 0.060", but the other four were 0.020"-0.040". Barely noticeable. And the amounts were predictable.

So, I don't see any problem with using a 5-saddle bridge to build a 10-string bass. If the saddles have 0.060" of thickness, so you can file a small angle correction, you could pre-set the intonation difference between each octave.

The intonation adjustment needed for each octave pair was typical for a 5-string bass: About 0.060" on the G down to about 0.350" on the B.

You can see what I mean here. All that work to make the paired saddles, and there's hardly any difference between the root and octave of each pair. The octaves are back slightly farther.

IMG_5197B.jpg
 
A note about intonation adjustment on 10-strings:

On the 10-strings that Keith and I built, I put 10 individual saddles in the bridge. But when it was all built and set up, I was surprised to find that there was very little difference in intonation position between each pair. The B string was about 0.060", but the other four were 0.020"-0.040". Barely noticeable. And the amounts were predictable.

So, I don't see any problem with using a 5-saddle bridge to build a 10-string bass. If the saddles have 0.060" of thickness, so you can file a small angle correction, you could pre-set the intonation difference between each octave.

The intonation adjustment needed for each octave pair was typical for a 5-string bass: About 0.060" on the G down to about 0.350" on the B.

You can see what I mean here. All that work to make the paired saddles, and there's hardly any difference between the root and octave of each pair. The octaves are back slightly farther.

View attachment 4742100

I took a perfectly good Schaller 5 string bridge and frankensteined it into a 10 string bridge I used the 8 string as a go by as to the saddle spacing. I had to drill 5 new hole for octave strings and make my own saddles and machine them to size. Also the string extender behind the bridge give the string enough length to keep the wound part of the string out of the tuner at the headstock .... remember this is a 30" scale bass with long scale strings.

upload_2022-7-7_6-1-22.jpeg


I am not happy with the neck pickup and that will get replaced, and the intonation at the 24th fret will probably be off, I am only really concerned about the intonation up to the 14th fret

upload_2022-7-7_6-3-48.jpeg


and currently the nut is too high and needs to be modified.

upload_2022-7-7_6-4-39.jpeg


and funny ... the truss rod has not yet been adjusted. Also 24 frets on a 10 string bass is insane, but it helps me seat the neck into the body with 6 screws

upload_2022-7-7_6-6-1.jpeg