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100 year old Pine P bass build

#81
Yeah, it's cheap. But, to be honest, it was a gift, and wasn't meant to do what I'm doing with it. I much prefer my 35mm. But trying to do a build with it, shooting the pics, and then waiting to get a full roll of film, and have it developed, transfered to disc, etc. Forget it. So I make do with what I have.
 
#83
Welcome, SLaPiNFuNK!
Time to carve the neck. I should start by saying that this is the first bolt on neck I've ever done. I usually build set necks, with a scarfed headstock and 3x3 tuners, so I have never carved the transitions at headstock and heel for a bolt on before.
I start by marking the transitions. First the headstock...

100yopineP117.jpg


...and then the heel.

100yopineP118.jpg


Then i placed a line on the side of the blank that gives me some thickness behind the truss rod, as well as making the neck slightly thicker toward the heel.

100yopineP119.jpg


Then, using a wood rasp, i start hogging away material. Here's a shot about halfway along.

100yopineP121.jpg


And here, roughly thicknessed.

100yopineP123.jpg
 
#84
After the neck is roughly thicknessed, I draw a line down the center of the back.

100yopineP124.jpg


As I shape the neck with the rasp, I'll be very careful not to hit this line. The reason is simple. I don't want to file through to the truss rod. This line will remain until I begin the sanding process on the neck.
Using the aformentioned rasp, i start hogging away at the neck.

100yopineP127.jpg


100yopineP128.jpg


I should mention here that in order to make sure the neck is shaped the way I want it, I continually run my bare hand along the neck. This way I can feel not only the shape I'm getting, but every single dip, bump or flaw in the wood. I do this a lot. It's highly recommended.
And here it is, roughly shaped.

100yopineP130.jpg
 
#88
Thanks, traynor1, ubnomnar and Gord_oh!
To bring the neck to it's final shape, i use 60 grit sandpaper.

100yopineP132.jpg


See the way the sandpaper is laying across the neck? What I do is simply grasp the paper on either side, and with a side to side motion I sand the neck, being sure to drape the paper over the sides of the neck so that I get a smooth curve to the back of the neck.

After a little work.

100yopineP134.jpg


Almost there.

100yopineP136.jpg
 
#90
Good Idea, Joe. I tear a full sheet in half, and then fold it like you see above. This makes it stronger, plus, when the side I'm using fills up with junk, i can just flip it over and keep on gittin' it!
Here are a few parting shots.
100yopineP139.jpg


100yopineP140.jpg


100yopineP138.jpg


100yopineP141.jpg


I'll put the neck through 60, 120, 220, 320, and finally 400 grit before it goes to finish. Thanks to everyone watching.
That's all for today. More to come.
 
#93
wagdog said:
A fine craftsman makes the work look easy.

How do you keep your work table from moving around on you?
Click to expand...
Thanks, wagdog.
As to the work bench, it has a step to put your foot on. I use that a lot. Sometimes I push it up against something else, usually a metal storage box that originally went in the back of a pickup truck. Anything heavy and immovable. When I'm planing, I do both.
I've contemplated bolting it down, but don't want to drill holes in my deck. I actually love the thing. A lot of the way I build is centered around the fact that the top opens up to use as a large clamp. Even if I get a shop up and running, i'd still use it or something like it for some things. It's also very convenient, as you can fold it up and store it just about anywhere, and it can be ready for work in seconds.
 
#94
Mike,

People often say they would like to do this or that if they only had the tools. Then, a guy like you comes along with a hand full of hand tools and knocks one out of the park. I love it. I can't wait to see the finished produce. :cool:

John D.
 
#95
JohnD, thanks for the comments and your interest in this build.
If I had waited around until I had all the tools I thought I needed, I'd never have built anything at all. I love to build guitars. I came to the conclusion that I could sit around and wait for everything to be perfect, or I could take what I have and use it to do what I love. I'm glad I chose the latter. I'm still learning, but having a blast!
 
#97
Thanks. I used a template I made from measurements I took off of another bass to get the general outline. The only contour I transferred over to that template was the location of the forearm contour. I used a roundover bit to get the edges right, and all contours were done by hand with a rasp and sandpaper until I was satisified with them.
You can see this in posts 1-4 of this thread.
 

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