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2013 Ampeg V-4B 100W Reissue Pt2

#861
Thanks Tim1 for giving your impressions of this amp. I'm still thinking about getting a 215 cab for bigger gigs. I know this amp isn't as versatile as the new Fenders but I'm finding that you can get more tones out of the V4B than you would think. Slight changes in the EQ seem to make a pretty big difference.
 
#864
I have a VB4 on the way! :smug:

One question I have is how concerned I should be with impedance of the cabs I end up using. Specifically, whether it would be beneficial to go with a cab or pair of cabs that would allow me to run the amp at 2 ohms. Am I going to get a noticeable increase in volume going running it at 2 ohms vs. 4 ohms or 8 ohms?

I having somewhat of a hard time deciding what cabs to go with. I have a pair of tweed colored Aguilar DB112s, which I LOVE... but I'm thinking of trading those out for something that matches the head a little better looks wise. A pair of 4 ohm Aguilar DB210s would be my first choice, but gosh darn it, those are really expensive new, and I cant find any on the used market. :rage:
 
#866
If using the correct taps into the correct ohm load of cabs the power/volume (100 watts) the amp is putting out will be identical. However if, for example, you ran into one 8ohm cab, and then hooked it up at 4ohms to two of that same 8ohm cab it would be louder solely due to the increased speaker surface area. If those two cabs were each 4ohm and you were running both as a 2ohm load the volume would be the same as when the imaginary cabs were 8 ohms each and running both.
 
#871
wonderjosh said:
I having somewhat of a hard time deciding what cabs to go with. I have a pair of tweed colored Aguilar DB112s, which I LOVE... but I'm thinking of trading those out for something that matches the head a little better looks wise. A pair of 4 ohm Aguilar DB210s would be my first choice, but gosh darn it, those are really expensive new, and I cant find any on the used market. :rage:
Click to expand...

If it's any consolation I played my 73 V4 through a friend's DB112 stack (though they were green tolex ;)) and it sounded lovely.
 
#872
Anyone else note that the signal from the DI is extremely hot? My guitard, who owns our PA, claims the signal is too hot to use.
As a result, I've been using a direct box out of my pedalboard, but it is just another step ........
 
#873
If it helps, with a 100mVRMS (0dB), 1KHz sine wave input to the amp, all tones at noon, rocker switches to the left, and 120VAC on the power line, the DI is supposed to put out 0.28V RMS at the DI.

If the signal is too hot for the mixer and the mixer does not have a pad switch, you can buy an inline pad, the pad plugs into the mixer, the cable plugs into the pad.
 
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#875
cheezewiz said:
Anyone else note that the signal from the DI is extremely hot? My guitard, who owns our PA, claims the signal is too hot to use.
As a result, I've been using a direct box out of my pedalboard, but it is just another step ........
Click to expand...

The word guitard says it all! Must be something he's doing wrong. Been playing bass over 35 years also did sound off and on throughout. I've never had an issue where a bass DI was so hot that I couldn't compensate with the "correct" board settings. If he thinks it's too hot you could try to mic up the cab. Better yet run both the DI and mic so you can blend the both of them.
 
#877
The DI signal is in relation to your gain setting. Low gain, low signal. High gain, high signal. If you want to crank gain but keep the signal to the board low enough not to get whining from soundmen (I don't understand why they can't just trim it back, either, but I have it happen sometimes, too). you might try an attenuator between the XLR out and the board. A-Designs makes a really sweet and simple one called the ATTY:

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#879
JimmyM said:
The DI signal is in relation to your gain setting. Low gain, low signal. High gain, high signal. If you want to crank gain but keep the signal to the board low enough not to get whining from soundmen (I don't understand why they can't just trim it back, either, but I have it happen sometimes, too). you might try an attenuator between the XLR out and the board. A-Designs makes a really sweet and simple one called the ATTY:

Invalid Link Removed
Click to expand...
I am really learning every day here at TB.
Never heard of The Attenuator before (sounds like an Arnold Schwarzenegger movie...lol)
 
#880
High Camp said:
I am really learning every day here at TB.
Never heard of The Attenuator before (sounds like an Arnold Schwarzenegger movie...lol)
Click to expand...
I'd go see that movie! Attenuators are nice to have in those circumstances. And A-Designs also makes the REDDI and several very high end channel strips and compressors, so they don't mess around.

Cheese, I would think so too, unless maybe you have a super hot bass.
 

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