IHey, there's no such thing as "6L6GC specs" or "7027a specs". Every company has its own specs. I will say that 7027A's and 6L6GC specs vary from around 30-35W dissipation. Both. If we're talking about power of course.
It sounds like you're familiar with tube marketing today, and totally unfamiliar with tube marketing and the trademark enforcement standards of the Golden Era. I'm going to go out on a limb and bet that you're a young whippersnapper, who learned about tubes on the internet, and not someone who had formal electronic engineering training during the tube era. (no offense intended).
6L6 was a Trademark belonging to RCA. In order to market any tube in the United States as a 6L6, the marketing company had to: a) prove that their tube met RCA's published quality/performance standards, and b) pay a royalty to RCA for licensing the 6L6 designation. Back in the day, you couldn't sell a tube as a 6L6 without RCA's permission. Back in the day, tubes bearing the 6L6GC designation were truly interchangable because RCA took extensive steps to insure that any tube bearing their trademarked model number would be the equivalent of RCA's own product and would perform with transparency when substituted for the OEM part.
Things are totally different today. RCA is out of the tube business and they've abandoned all enforcement of the 6L6 trademark. The result is that RCA is no longer enforcing quality control standards on any manufacturer who chooses to use the 6L6 designation. Today it's a free for all. Today anyone, anywhere, can claim that their tube is a 6L6, and they could be selling something that's nothing like a 6L6 in terms of quality, durability, or performance because there's nobody to beat them down if they sell something substandard. This problem went on for a long time when the Chinese and Russian tube manufacturers first started branding their non-equivalent tubes as 6L6 replacements, but things are getting better now.
I don't want this to evolve into a flamewar, so I'm going to bow out of this conversation and let you have the last word on the subject, with the following caveat:
It's always risky to tell someone on the internet how wrong they are, because you never know -- you may be talking to some old fart who designed tube electronics during the golden era, who may know more than you can possibly hope to learn by surfing forums on the web. Chances are that other person might know an awful lot about the subject. Personally, I'm not going to argue. Believe what you will, and good luck reading spec sheets, assuming that the tubes are equivalent, and substituting 6L6 for 7027.