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Would love to hear it with a 15 or pair of 15's too...
Thanks all. I think I prefer the sound of power tubes working hard over preamp tubes. I've been waiting for this amp for quite some time. I think it will pair well with my SVT4x12...
That would require someone having had played both and being able to make a comparison. Sounds a lot like the vintage model to me, but since they don't street for another few weeks...
Well now you're way over my head, except for the last sentence. If they use the same guts, then I don't see how different they could be. I don't claim to be any sort of expert on them, but if they have the same guts, the only difference is the pinout, no?There's a reason that Ampeg chose to use 7027 back in the day instead of 6L6GC. It was all about using rugged, higher performance tubes in their amplifiers, because Ampegs ran at voltages that tended to destroy 6L6GC.
While the 6L6GC was designed as a common tube for the commercial market, the 7027 was designed as a higher dissipation/ premium-quality ruggedized tube that was intended for more extreme-duty use. It had a 35W plate dissipation instead of the 30W dissipation of the 6L6. Back in the day the advertising literature talked about higher headroom and lower distortion.
In order to get the increased power output the 7027 was designed to safely operate at higher voltages than the 6L6GC could tolerate. There were a lot of changes in the tubes -- the envelope was different to assist with cooling. There were also some changes that went along with the screen and control grids, bringing the connections out to assist in their cooling. The pinouts were even changed to facilitate cooling, so on an amp that runs 7027 pins 1&4 have to be tied together and pins 5&6 have to be tied together.
6L6 don't use pins 1&6, so amp builders often "cheated" and used these these terminals on the sockets as binding posts for other components. What this meant then, was that back in the day a 6L6 amp and a 7027 amp were not pin compatible unless you made some necessary changes to make the amps compatible.
The real interesting question about the new reissue amp is going to be what kind of B+ voltages it runs at, and whether those are the types of voltages that are more typical of 6L6 designs or 7027 designs. If the plate voltages remain high, you might run into trouble with 6L6 tube life.
> Just because JJ still makes them doesn't mean they're any good.
although the pinouts on the bases are different, the current production JJ 6L6 and 7027 use the same guts.
well, there was a huge difference in the output of the original and the reissue of the 90s.
Im not trying to belabor that, I'd just like some idea where it is between the two before I start foregoing my lunch for some extra bucks!
Whoa! Nobody told me it would be this good looking! Dang, might have to get this despite my wife's edict. Oh well, she sprang that she wants a horse on me today...I guess I'll have to use this as leverage![]()
Don't forget to save some lunch money for a full compliment of NOS RCA, Phillips or Sylvania valves if you pull the trigger. They'll last decades. Keep the JJs for backup. The Soviet military 6p3S-e (6l6gc analogs) are working well in my V4B; Cheap, tough and sound great. The original 7027s were still pumping it out 100% when I swapped them. They're my backup set now.