One advantage of using a straight edge is that the feeler can't slightly push up the straight edge like it can with a string. Or in other words it is easy to set less relief than you think you are when using strings. I have a metal bar I use for that and for fretless repairs, although I am tempted to practice on a very unhappy spare guitar neck to see if I can level a neck with it...
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3 64ths? Are you kiddin?
- Thread starter Ray Matthews
- Start date
Turnaround
Commercial User
Like you, in the field I use the string as a straightedge. In the shop, it's a dial gauge on a beam.
I stand corrected. I never knew that the decimal system and metric system were so interconnected. Thanks for the history lesson.
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can't "LIKE" this one enough...we Americans got royally screwed by being continually educated and doing business in IMPERIAL...geez, it's so illogical. We're naturally inclined to "get" 100ths, we use dollars and CENTS, we use PERCENT as a concept all day long...ugh. How long is this nuttiness going to go on. Ooops, I posted another reply with .045" in it.
D'oh!
Yup. I'm a scientist and its really frustrating to use the metric system and not have the feel for it like I do the imperial system. I really hope the government enacts it soon (that's wishful), Its a much better system.
I would consider action a hot topic, but a very personal one, meaning that what works for some people doesn't work for others. I can barely play a bass with really high action, but that's just me. Set it to where you feel comfortable, and that's it. How anyone else does it is up to them. Whenever I see any mention of well know bassist's bass setup, it's never includes actual figures. Geddy Lee, as an example: he likes his Jazz basses set up with the neck "very straight" and action "super-low". It was also mentioned at one point that the action on his Ric 4001 was higher. I recall these from Bass Player mag interviews. It works for him, though, it may not work for you.
I set my action to 5/64 on my Geddy Lee Jazz, and 6/64 on my old MIM Jazz. I play with a light tough but want to be able to dig in without buzz as needed.
I use a string gauge to set the E and then I set the rest of the strings to follow the radius of the fretboard and tweak each string if necessary. I don't bother measuring past the E.
I was suddenly having trouble with getting my G string down to my usual 2mm for some reason without it fretting out. I tweaked the trussrod and bridge no end but couldn't get it right. I had never had this trouble on my Jazz before.
In despair I pulled it off with the intention of using a higher guage, but I after I took it off I changed my mind and decided to give it another try.
I was amazed to find the blessed thing was now going lower than ever and not buzzing at all.
What the hell happened? Anybody got any idea?
In despair I pulled it off with the intention of using a higher guage, but I after I took it off I changed my mind and decided to give it another try.
I was amazed to find the blessed thing was now going lower than ever and not buzzing at all.
What the hell happened? Anybody got any idea?
Interestingly, this is what I wound up with on my fretless too. Now I have an easy gauge system, thanks.
I suppose there might be a use for a digital or dial caliper on a stringed instrument. Setting string height doesn't come to mind though. The only part of the device that could be of use would be the depth gauge, but then we're measuring the bottom of the string to top of fret, not top of string to top of fret.
Inside caliper might work on the outer strings but seems cumbersome at best.
I've used the shank portion of various sized drill bits though. They are marked as to size and very accurate, and in a pinch they're almost as good as feeler gauges.
If someone wants to use 'thickness gauges' such as coins or cards, or whatever,
a vernier or caliper can be used to measure something that fits the setup (like drill bits), then find some the same size that's more readily avail-
most people don't have numbered bit sets around everywhere, but maybe some change in their pocket.
a vernier or caliper can be used to measure something that fits the setup (like drill bits), then find some the same size that's more readily avail-
most people don't have numbered bit sets around everywhere, but maybe some change in their pocket.
I only wish I had spare change in my pockets. Nickels, dimes and quarters seem to disappear into the ether with alarming regularity. I can sometimes be found to have a loonie burning a hole in my pocket, but only on rare occasions.
I'm more likely to use fractional drill bits rather than numbered if I can't find my feelers. Simple division gives me the best of both worlds. Fractions and/or decimals of the inch.
I've even been known to use lockwire for this sort of thing. I've usually got .010, .020, .032, and .040 on hand. Plenty of options for the mechanically inclined.
Calipers are the wrong tool for measuring bottom of string to top of fret.
I'm more likely to use fractional drill bits rather than numbered if I can't find my feelers. Simple division gives me the best of both worlds. Fractions and/or decimals of the inch.
I've even been known to use lockwire for this sort of thing. I've usually got .010, .020, .032, and .040 on hand. Plenty of options for the mechanically inclined.
Calipers are the wrong tool for measuring bottom of string to top of fret.
