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3Leaf Audio Club - Episode 2

So what is the issue with the finishes? Is it the letters fall off, the enclosures rust, or both?

I fully expect the B-Stocks to show up with graphics missing. My guess is that these have been that way from the start or started showing the wear before batches shipped out - he's probably had them for a long time. The messaging about no longer dealing with stores leads me to believe that the finish problems were way bigger of a headache than we realized. The messaging comes across like I'm selling what I've got to clear out and get a clean slate...which sounds awesome, but I imagine that he's been waiting on corrected enclosures for these for a while and is just moving on.

The messaging also sounded to me like he is looking to revive his product lines, but don't set your calendars so snatching stuff up was a good idea if you want to have these to play with. When they arrive, I want to do something to protect whatever finish/lettering I've got...maybe even lining the top with a clear packing tap could work? Is anyone planning to try to protect the finish when they get theirs?
 
So what is the issue with the finishes? Is it the letters fall off, the enclosures rust, or both?

I fully expect the B-Stocks to show up with graphics missing. My guess is that these have been that way from the start or started showing the wear before batches shipped out - he's probably had them for a long time. The messaging about no longer dealing with stores leads me to believe that the finish problems were way bigger of a headache than we realized. The messaging comes across like I'm selling what I've got to clear out and get a clean slate...which sounds awesome, but I imagine that he's been waiting on corrected enclosures for these for a while and is just moving on.

The messaging also sounded to me like he is looking to revive his product lines, but don't set your calendars so snatching stuff up was a good idea if you want to have these to play with. When they arrive, I want to do something to protect whatever finish/lettering I've got...maybe even lining the top with a clear packing tap could work? Is anyone planning to try to protect the finish when they get theirs?
I don't want to start up a rumor mill but I believe these were made earlier, and now are available for whatever reason. A few things I don't understand from the message, one he mentions how there is some units that either already show signs of the letters falling off, and then some that potentially may fall off, BOTH of those seem to be included in B STOCK, so what's the "NEW" units, are these the newer enclosures with this "Ghost" process? he mentions a price hike on the newer stuff, but I have a feeling the Ghost finish isn't even made. What's the difference between the B-Stock and New??

The letters fall off, some with a light breeze, some can seemingly be on there good but later on come off with a simply wipe of a cloth to clean dust off. The black finish on ANY of these pedals is prone to light oxidation, I don't know if this was intented but like my previous comment, just think of it similar to a blued finish on a firearm, it can be taken care the same as a gun, lightly oiling it, BUT in turn you're probably going to wipe off your screenprint...

Packing tape may work, but you're never taking it off, and if you mess up before hand it you'll ruin it taking it off. Something as simple as "HARD drying" hair spray may honestly work, remove the knobs and over the switch though, clear coat from the paint section @ walmart would work as well.

All of these are what I've personally experienced.

Proton V4 is evidently the least sought after? Odd. I think it sounds like it would be more functional than the Chromatron, meaning that it would be easier to dial in and have less bad sounds available at the expense of an expanded range.
The Chromatron (at the beginning of signal chain at least) has been the easiest filter to dial in, sensitivity wise, than anything I've used, including a gen 2 proton, GR2, and especially the IE XD. Just food for thought, maybe the V4 is amazing and you just throw it down and begin to rock within seconds, I've never had the pleasure - I just know the Chromatron has been very easy to navigate. This also includes dialing in the expression output as well compared to others.
 
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There's many builders out there that clear over their pedals, most of JohnK pedals are done that way if there's graphic or label atop the enclosure. If done correctly I don't see why it wouldn't work, you would have to unmount the board(s) and pot nuts though if buffing of any kind needed after the fact. And don't rush, or it will turn into a sticky mess
 
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I owned the Chromatron for a couple years and it is fantastic, but I did find myself thinking that it was difficult to dial in relative to other envelope filters.

I bought a Proton V4 because I’m sick and I can’t help myself, so I’ll post here and let you know what I think.
I thought the Chroma was a little hard to dial in until I had some very helpful realizations. Namely:

1) Use the fx loop as much as you can for dirt and synth pedals
2) Set the response and then forget it, only touch it again if you identify that you need to-- don't touch it just to touch it.
3) Instead of reaching for the response knob, use the A/D.
4) The main reason to use mix is if you engage band pass. Set the mix to 1:00 or higher, because with it any lower, the filtered sound just disappears.
5) Boost is also mainly useful for band pass mode, to boost the entire signal to make up for lost volume on the clean side. I tend to set it between noon and 3:00.
 
I owned the Chromatron for a couple years and it is fantastic, but I did find myself thinking that it was difficult to dial in relative to other envelope filters.

I bought a Proton V4 because I’m sick and I can’t help myself, so I’ll post here and let you know what I think.
What did you find difficult? getting it to trigger? dialing in the open and close? I'm just curious. Long as I can strike a note and adjust with another free hand I can get whatever I'm after, I can scramble all the dials and be back to "my spot" within a minute. Granted I keep mine at the beginning of my chain, and I house most pedals in loop so it sums those for me. I've also had people message me after I posted a clip of me playing with my expression pedal wondering how the heck I got it to respond so well, I mean I have a expression pedal that can dial in the range but even with my dunlop the control I posted was typical, and super easy.

Now dialing in a IE XD... that's a challenge, and for gods sake don't touch the controls or change up the input level

This is making me want a proton just to see what this easy setup is, if I'm already doing this well...
 
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Last month @adamajah and I traded my Chromatron for his V4 Proton due to me needing to make room on my Nano+ pedalboard. In general I find that they sound pretty close tonally but I needed more extreme settings on the Chromatron to achieve the same basic "thing" as a V4 Proton is giving me. I wasn't using the loop in the Chromatron so the V4 Proton has proven to be a good move for me.

Now, that said; I don't think the V4 Proton sounds exactly like the Chromatron circuit but with slightly different controls. They're VERY close, but there's something that happens with how the filter closes that I preferred on the Chromatron. It felt more predictable and tended to work better at copping synth tones when used in conjunction with an octave pedal. Ultimately I think I prefer the Chromatron tonally, but its size meant that I had to make compromises elsewhere on my board and I made the decision that I'd rather make a compromise on my board's filter as opposed to other areas. Now, that said if a V4 Proton is a "compromise" then I'm officially out of problems :smug:
 
What did you find difficult? getting it to trigger? dialing in the open and close? I'm just curious. Long as I can strike a note and adjust with another free hand I can get whatever I'm after, I can scramble all the dials and be back to "my spot" within a minute. Granted I keep mine at the beginning of my chain, and I house most pedals in loop so it sums those for me. I've also had people message me after I posted a clip of me playing with my expression pedal wondering how the heck I got it to respond so well, I mean I have a expression pedal that can dial in the range but even with my dunlop the control I posted was typical, and super easy.

Now dialing in a IE XD... that's a challenge, and for gods sake don't touch the controls or change up the input level

This is making me want a proton just to see what this easy setup is, if I'm already doing this well...

It’s an envelope filter, and they some finnicky beasts. Maybe your instrument’s output is in the goldilocks zone?

To be clear, I found it to be lovely. Definitely the best filter I’ve tried, just a little cumbersome. If he makes another batch, I could very well buy another.
 
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It’s an envelope filter, and they some finnicky beasts. Maybe your instrument’s output is in the goldilocks zone?

To be clear, I found it to be lovely. Definitely the best filter I’ve tried, just a little cumbersome. If he makes another batch, I could very well buy another.
Yeah, its the most "organic", if there is such a description in music.., filter I've used. I thought maybe it was the ouput or impedance, but across a Fender(A), Stingray(A), SB-2(P), and Warwick(P) the only thing I adjust is the sens, typically with a non messed with bass preamp.., the sens stays around 10 o'clock, my warick's wiring is mucho different so I have to crank it up to like 2 or so, but results in the same behavior. I've seen a lot of pictures of peoples sens around the 10 mark too, seems to be the balanced point for most "factory" managed bass outputs
 
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I am willing to bet that the worst we will see from the B-Stock is that some of the letters have the silkscreen chipping way, but I highly doubt they will be missing complete letters. B-Stock typically is light wear and some cosmetics dings, but fully missing graphics is a totally different thing. Currently the weather in my area is -20ºC, so I am fairly certain mine will not be doing great when it arrives.
 
I am willing to bet that the worst we will see from the B-Stock is that some of the letters have the silkscreen chipping way, but I highly doubt they will be missing complete letters. B-Stock typically is light wear and some cosmetics dings, but fully missing graphics is a totally different thing. Currently the weather in my area is -20ºC, so I am fairly certain mine will not be doing great when it arrives.
Ok, so is it safe to say that pedals that have already shown signs of silkscreen issues are B-Stock and the others that don't (noted, that could possibly have issues down the road) currently have issues are "NEW"? I just see 2 different prices, but when noting the issues on the website he groups BOTH descriptions into B-Stock, and doesn't describe what purchasing one at a NEW price is
 
Well -- Somehow I have managed to show incredible restraint. It was difficult and trying but I persevered.....

Same. Well, I was on the checkout (Octabvre) twice, but ended up not going through, until it was sold out anyways. I think I can wait for a few more months anyway. I just recently got my MXR BOD anyways, and I’d like my first 3 Leaf pedal to have the graphics in good condition.
 
Same. Well, I was on the checkout (Octabvre) twice, but ended up not going through, until it was sold out anyways. I think I can wait for a few more months anyway. I just recently got my MXR BOD anyways, and I’d like my first 3 Leaf pedal to have the graphics in good condition.

I'm sure I'll regret not buying them :) The only 1 of the 3 I have not had is the Proton. Last night I had the Doom2 in my cart a few times but I have already have some great fuzz pedals. Currently have an Octabvre Mini on the board and an Octron which is just fine. Still was super tempting to buy all 3.

Super happy Spencer is back and seemingly doing well. Excited to see what he has in store!
 
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