Thank you, I appreciate all the info me to get up to speed with 3Leaf Audio. Also, do you know what drops had the printing problem? Were they with all the pedals for that period or time?
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3Leaf Audio Club - Episode 2
- Thread starter fivestringgecko
- Start date
My pleasure! It was the black oxide releases from 2020 (Octabvre) and 2021 (Doom 2). The matte black oxide Protons were immune to that issue.
So I was thinking about trying to grab one of the new octabvres, but decided to pass as I'm very satisfied with the tones from my mk3. Of course, the day after the drop the sub switch on mine started acting up, only activating intermittently if at all. Anyone else experience this issue before? I'm hoping it could be fixed with just some contact cleaner, but I'm hesitant to go poking around in there.
I had the same issue with mine when I got it (brand new) after a few days. Even sent the video to Spencer. What solved the issue for me was flipping the Tim switch off, trying the sub switch again (worked fine). Turning the Tom switch on again worked fine too. It seemed to have been related to that since the issue started when I played around with the settings and Tim switch. Never had the issue happen again in 2 years of owning it before I ultimately sold it. Not sure if that fixed the issue (I opened the pedal too and it seemed fine, didn't really touch anything). It's worth a shot, give the Tim switch a try.
Edit: to be clear, the fix described here wasn't Spencer's idea. I randomly tried it. Spence told me to look at the insides and send him a photo.
Some black oxide Octabvre MkIII owners were having issues with switches shorting out (in addition to the label fiasco). The solution from Spencer was to add some tape somewhere on the inside of the enclosure.
"A few units from the first production run have exhibited occasional erratic switching behavior. The cause is free play in the footswitch PCB mounting holes which creates the possibility of the switches shorting out on the PCB mounting tab. The fix is to put a piece of tape over the mounting tab which prevents the possibilty of a short."
Some black oxide Octabvre MkIII owners were having issues with switches shorting out (in addition to the label fiasco). The solution from Spencer was to add some tape somewhere on the inside of the enclosure.
"A few units from the first production run have exhibited occasional erratic switching behavior. The cause is free play in the footswitch PCB mounting holes which creates the possibility of the switches shorting out on the PCB mounting tab. The fix is to put a piece of tape over the mounting tab which prevents the possibilty of a short."
i would hope for $333 he is willing to fix design flaws at his cost not ours.
Are there any clips or live footage of Mike Gordon using the 3.33 prototype? I’m more of a casual Phish fan but I’d like to hear it in action.
Man, I was wondering about that! I'm not sure if this is it, but here is a video of his rig from the end of last year. Notice that the Octabvre MkIII looks like the Icefall edition, but does not say "TIM" under the middle switch, or at least it doesn't seem to. It might be the prototype mentioned.
And to think this is more simplified that previous rig. I remember seeing an older rundown of his and at one point I was like "make it stop!"
Don't get me wrong, I appreciate gear and love learning about different setups but some are just overwhelming.
poopie, I saw Phish 12 times last year and didn't even notice it. Mike uses a lot of different effects and various synth patches... The Meowdulator, on the other hand, was a little easier to distinguish.
Offhand, maybe check out the Chalkdust Torture from Dick's 8/30/2024 around the 14:40 mark... I think this is the Octabvre, but I'm also listening on my work computer and I don't think Spencer designed it for the bass response on these bad boys:
how many phish shows to achieve casual status vs moderate?
I guess it also depends on the number of state lines crossed to see said shows.
Loll
I'd like to think so as well, but given past history (faceplates being a prime example), I don't know that I'd entirely have faith in getting it back in a timely manner....? I'd probably give some serious thought to exploring a local option first, or even just soldering in a new switch myself. I have just enough soldering skills to be dangerous.
5sg.
A bit off topic at the moment, but is anyone rocking one of these older You’re Doom fuzzes on their board? There’s a certain charm to Spencer’s earlier circuits in which they seem to be “fool proof” compared to later iterations. The Doom 2 is absolutely fantastic, but all its flexibility can sometimes get in the way—for me at least. I tried this one out for the first time just a few days ago, and quickly found a fat synth tone that suited Head Hunter’s “Chameleon.” An unpopular opinion perhaps, but I’m also a big fan of the patina/rust these older enclosures get 
Maybe he’ll do a “relic” finish on some of the new onesA bit off topic at the moment, but is anyone rocking one of these older You're Doom fuzzes on their board? There's a certain charm to Spencer's earlier circuits in which they seem to be "fool proof" compared to later iterations. The Doom 2 is absolutely fantastic, but all its flexibility can sometimes get in the way—for me at least. I tried this one out for the first time just a few days ago, and quickly found a fat synth tone that suited Head Hunter's "Chameleon." An unpopular opinion perhaps, but I'm also a big fan of the patina/rust these older enclosures get
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Some black oxide Octabvre MkIII owners were having issues with switches shorting out (in addition to the label fiasco). The solution from Spencer was to add some tape somewhere on the inside of the enclosure.
"A few units from the first production run have exhibited occasional erratic switching behavior. The cause is free play in the footswitch PCB mounting holes which creates the possibility of the switches shorting out on the PCB mounting tab. The fix is to put a piece of tape over the mounting tab which prevents the possibilty of a short."
Thanks for the tip! Last night I tried the tape fix and it didn't seem to work. Today I took apart the enclosure again, unscrewed the switch pcb to make sure there was nothing else amiss, reassembled everything, and now it's working. However, there's now an audible pop when I engage the sub switch if the bypass switch is off
Thanks for the tip! Last night I tried the tape fix and it didn't seem to work. Today I took apart the enclosure again, unscrewed the switch pcb to make sure there was nothing else amiss, reassembled everything, and now it's working. However, there's now an audible pop when I engage the sub switch if the bypass switch is off
BTW, have you reached out to Spencer about this yet?
Hi Mike! We know you're out there lurking
Aren’t his circuits specifically designed to not pop when on/off?Thanks for the tip! Last night I tried the tape fix and it didn't seem to work. Today I took apart the enclosure again, unscrewed the switch pcb to make sure there was nothing else amiss, reassembled everything, and now it's working. However, there's now an audible pop when I engage the sub switch if the bypass switch is off
