5 string Ricken-Musicman Bass.

[Gary_M]

I also use a band saw to rough cut. I then attach the cut-offs to one side of the taper and run the assembly through the drum sander or thickness planer to true up the first side of the taper. One the first side is cleaned up, I flip the off-cuts to the other side and clean up the other side of the taper. Sounds more complicated than it is. Only takes a few minutes.

 

[Videojunkie]

Originally, the center was going to be maple, and I had a moment of concern that swapping the maple vs the walnut would make the neck weaker.

Looked it up and walnut and maple are almost interchangeable as far as their modulus of elasticity goes. Whew!

 

[Videojunkie]

So, I've been looking at the fingerboard, and I am rethinking the flamed maple. I just wonder if the contrasting grain is too subtle and/or too busy.

I have some choices:

1, leave the flamed maple, it's fine and is a pretty good looking piece. Plus the clear maple and the colored maple will be fine next to each other. You're making much ado about nothing...

2, cut out a section of this birds-eye maple board. It will match the top, and be a nice transition. (Even though it won't be dyed, nor is it as highly figured as the top)

3, ditch the maple board and use the other half of this piece of curupay that I'm using in the SCP. (But I'm not sure what that does for my inlay plans...)

 

[RichterScale]

Take pics of the board choices next to the top.
Also, I charge 2 beers p/hr for consulting fees.

 

[RichterScale]

Looked it up and walnut and maple are almost interchangeable as far as their modulus of elasticity goes. Whew!

Just yesterday, I made a list/chart of 9 woods that I have used or plan to use. Most of which I have on hand. From poplar to wenge and wrote down their Janka, weight, MOE, MOR and crush (compression) strength, so I have a quick reference for what's good for what use and to compare them to each other. Hard maple is usually my control.
I might be a wood nerd.

 

[Crawforde]

That’s an excellent idea. I should do that because my memory sucks and I have to look things up often when I remember.
my current list of oft used woods is pretty small, but still it couldn’t hurt when looking for alternatives.

 

[Crawforde]

Just yesterday, I made a list/chart of 9 woods that I have used or plan to use. Most of which I have on hand. From poplar to wenge and wrote down their Janka, weight, MOE, MOR and crush (compression) strength, so I have a quick reference for what's good for what use and to compare them to each other. Hard maple is usually my control.
I might be a wood nerd.

I think being a wood nerd may be a prerequisite for or a symptom of admission to the LC.

 

[Crawforde]

So, I've been looking at the fingerboard, and I am rethinking the flamed maple. I just wonder if the contrasting grain is too subtle and/or too busy.
I think they would all look good. but I’m leaning toward the curupay for the contrast in grain and color.
I have some choices:

1, leave the flamed maple, it's fine and is a pretty good looking piece. Plus the clear maple and the colored maple will be fine next to each other. You're making much ado about nothing...

2, cut out a section of this birds-eye maple board. It will match the top, and be a nice transition. (Even though it won't be dyed, nor is it as highly figured as the top)

View attachment 4834808

3, ditch the maple board and use the other half of this piece of curupay that I'm using in the SCP. (But I'm not sure what that does for my inlay plans...)
View attachment 4834809

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Use plain maple for the board and make block inlays out of the birdseye?

 

[RichterScale]

Use plain maple for the board and make block inlays out of the birdseye?

That would look cool with black veneer border around the block inlays.
Or, a dark board with birdseye block inlays to match the top?

 

[Crawforde]

Wow. This is getting intricate. I’m glad I don’t have to build it.
But a three layer purfling around the bird’s eye would be awesome.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Ok. It’s settled… plain maple board, B/W/B purfling with mitered corners around birdseye inlays. Keep us posted.

 

[Crawforde]

Bee stings in the corners of the octave block?

 

[Videojunkie]

Here are a few pictures of what I'm deciding between. I decided against the curupay, it looks too much like the walnut and mahogany.

I tried setting it up with the bindings and the inlay material.

Detail of the inlay bindings and abalone...

Couple other shots of the whole thing.

 

[Crawforde]

You know I won’t be able to sleep tonight now right? My brain will be ping ponging between the choices all night. I’m also wondering where the fingerboard for my acoustic build went. I’ve looked everywhere.

 

[Videojunkie]

Looking at the inlay material, I am realizing that I will have to paint behind them black.

 

[Videojunkie]

Ok. It’s settled… plain maple board, B/W/B purfling with mitered corners around birdseye inlays. Keep us posted.

If you want one like that, I am sure that some kind of financial arrangement could be made...

 

[Videojunkie]

You know I won’t be able to sleep tonight now right? My brain will be ping ponging between the choices all night. I’m also wondering where the fingerboard for my acoustic build went. I’ve looked everywhere.

In my shop it's always on top of the tool chest, or the bandsaw...

Sometimes it's under the pattern.

 

[Crawforde]

I might be a wood nerd.

An excellent wood nerd resource. If anyone needs info Google does not find.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Either board will look good. For whatever my opinion is worth I’d lean towards the birdseye.