Either way, I am pretty locked in for a maple fingerboard, and the inlays and bindings. I am really looking forward to seeing those when they are done!
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5 string Ricken-Musicman Bass.
- Thread starter Videojunkie
- Start date
Either way, I am pretty locked in for a maple fingerboard, and the inlays and bindings. I am really looking forward to seeing those when they are done!
Glue them in using black Starbond CA glue.Looking at the inlay material, I am realizing that I will have to paint behind them black.
Why?Looking at the inlay material, I am realizing that I will have to paint behind them black.
The inlay is so thin that it's slightly transparent. I'm thinking I am going to have to set it below the curve of the fretboard and seal it with some CA glue. I was considering epoxy, but I don't trust it to stay clear.
Terrible Tim's black Starbond suggestion sounds good. Or paint the back of the inlay with black epoxy before gluing. Or glue it in with black epoxy.
I've had worse luck with CA not staying clear than epoxy not staying clear, though I'm sure it's user error.
So... things I learned today.
1, the 1.5mm binding isn't really 1.5mm. So 2 of them side by side isn't quite 3mm. More like 2.5mm
2. 1/8" router bits are 3.175mm which when combined with a 2.5mm binding leaves an unacceptably wide slot.
3. Even with the precision dremel base, and some guide fences, it is not quite precise enough for me to feel really good about cutting all of these binding channels.
On the good news side, I know a guy who does some cnc woodworking, and am looking into seeing how much he will charge me to cut all of this out on his cnc...
1, the 1.5mm binding isn't really 1.5mm. So 2 of them side by side isn't quite 3mm. More like 2.5mm
2. 1/8" router bits are 3.175mm which when combined with a 2.5mm binding leaves an unacceptably wide slot.
3. Even with the precision dremel base, and some guide fences, it is not quite precise enough for me to feel really good about cutting all of these binding channels.
On the good news side, I know a guy who does some cnc woodworking, and am looking into seeing how much he will charge me to cut all of this out on his cnc...
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All of this reminds me of a 2x4, which isn't really 2x4. 
Doing some measuring *before* I go an cut out the body, the maximum depth on my control plate is 1 3/8" (push/pull pot). My top is ~1/4", I'd like to have at least 1/4" under the control cavity, so I am at a minimum body thickness of 1 5/8".
The mahogany is 3/4", so it will take 2 layers, but one of them needs to be thicknessed down to 5/8" or I can take 1/16" off the whole thing, and I would be fine.
I think planing the whole board is going to be the most straightforward process. so I'll do that.
Glad we had this little chat.
The mahogany is 3/4", so it will take 2 layers, but one of them needs to be thicknessed down to 5/8" or I can take 1/16" off the whole thing, and I would be fine.
I think planing the whole board is going to be the most straightforward process. so I'll do that.
Glad we had this little chat.
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Glad to help.
This is the kind of help I can sometimes offer without causing harm.
This is the kind of help I can sometimes offer without causing harm.
The chattoyance in this piece of mahogany is insane. In the sun it literally glows!
Next to the walnut.
Next to the walnut.
That's wild.
So far, I've found mahogany to be my favorite to work with, but I'm never happy with the look. I'd be all over a cool piece like that.
So far, I've found mahogany to be my favorite to work with, but I'm never happy with the look. I'd be all over a cool piece like that.
Found the piece for the headstock.
Flamed birds-eye maple? It's from the next section of the board that the top is from.
Oh, and I had about 3/4" of that mahogany to spare. Whew!
And the top is 3/16" not 1/4" so I'll have to be really careful when I route the control cavity.
And, after tonight's efforts, all of the wood for the bass is cut to rough shape. I will probably wait until tomorrow to do the glue up for the neck.
Flamed birds-eye maple? It's from the next section of the board that the top is from.
Oh, and I had about 3/4" of that mahogany to spare. Whew!
And the top is 3/16" not 1/4" so I'll have to be really careful when I route the control cavity.
And, after tonight's efforts, all of the wood for the bass is cut to rough shape. I will probably wait until tomorrow to do the glue up for the neck.
Obligatory neck clamp Pic.
11 plys make for a slightly stressful glue up. Happy I had enough glue.
That's not every clamp I own, but it is most of them!
11 plys make for a slightly stressful glue up. Happy I had enough glue.
That's not every clamp I own, but it is most of them!
I wound up using my bandsaw to carefully cut as much of the taper as I could from one side of the center piece. I then used my jointer to take care of flattening the taper. It seemed to work pretty good. (I hope) I just didn't take any pictures of the process. It's a pretty gentle taper, from 3/4" to 1/2" over 44"
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No pictures, but this very nearly turned into a 33.5" scale bass. I was cleaning up the end of the neck blank, and the template slipped! It's recoverable, but barely.
I can eek out the full 34", but it pushes me to the limit on the headstock end.
Laying out the truss rod and CF rods so I can route and set them.
To do list before gluing the wings:
Route truss rod
Route CF rods
Epoxy CF rods
Cut headstock profile
Cut drop top recess
Route inlays
Install inlay borders
Radius fretboard
Install inlays
Cut fret slots
Glue fretboard
Cut neck outline
Route binding for fretboard
Install binding
Install frets
Cut neck profile including volute
Thickness the faceplate for the headstock (currently 1/4" needs to be >3/16")
Drill tuner locations
Attach faceplate
Re-drill tuners
Route headstock to final shape
Route binding channel for headstock and faceplate
Install binding on headstock
I think most of that is in order.
Whee!
I can eek out the full 34", but it pushes me to the limit on the headstock end.
Laying out the truss rod and CF rods so I can route and set them.
To do list before gluing the wings:
Route truss rod
Route CF rods
Epoxy CF rods
Cut headstock profile
Cut drop top recess
Route inlays
Install inlay borders
Radius fretboard
Install inlays
Cut fret slots
Glue fretboard
Cut neck outline
Route binding for fretboard
Install binding
Install frets
Cut neck profile including volute
Thickness the faceplate for the headstock (currently 1/4" needs to be >3/16")
Drill tuner locations
Attach faceplate
Re-drill tuners
Route headstock to final shape
Route binding channel for headstock and faceplate
Install binding on headstock
I think most of that is in order.
Whee!
Based on my measurements of the tuners, I want the headstock to be about 5/8" or a little leas thick. If I can get my overlay to 1/8", then my base would be 1/2". Should I be worried that is too thin for the headstock for strength?
The fretboard board is about 1/4", and based on a variety of threads, it looks like most necks are about 3/4" - 7/8" thick at the nut. So my neck profile (ignoring the volute) should be around 5/8"? And at the heel, should be close to 3/4" (for 1" total thickness).
The fretboard board is about 1/4", and based on a variety of threads, it looks like most necks are about 3/4" - 7/8" thick at the nut. So my neck profile (ignoring the volute) should be around 5/8"? And at the heel, should be close to 3/4" (for 1" total thickness).
- Apr 18, 2008
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Sounds about right to me! 1/2” is usually the minimum thickness for a headstock, so I usually aim for a smidge more than that. But I have also accidentally wound up with less than 1/2”, and just added more washers to the tuner bushings.
