I think it’s pretty clear Stewmac made their rods an odd size expressly to make you buy their router bit, and it still doesn’t fit? Another reason to avoid Stewmac unless absolutely necessary, I just can’t stomach their prices.
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5 string Ricken-Musicman Bass.
- Thread starter Videojunkie
- Start date
Materials update.
I now have a set of pattern bits for my router. I will be able to route everything except the hook at the end of the headstock, which is easy to clean up with a small file.
Also, I got the Kaish 16" wooden fingerboard radius block. Not too sure about it. It will probably be fine, but I may return it for one of the extruded aluminum ones.
I now have a set of pattern bits for my router. I will be able to route everything except the hook at the end of the headstock, which is easy to clean up with a small file.
Also, I got the Kaish 16" wooden fingerboard radius block. Not too sure about it. It will probably be fine, but I may return it for one of the extruded aluminum ones.
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So I had to redo the layout for the inlays. I like this better than the last version. I also corrected some minor geometry issues that I had.
I am debating the inlay block on the first fret, it just covers a lot of the wood.. so I might continue the sine wave out instead.
I am debating the inlay block on the first fret, it just covers a lot of the wood.. so I might continue the sine wave out instead.
It does. Any thoughts on tapering the blocks like the neck? That might make it look less intrusive. Also might make it look like poo. Who knows.
I was trying to make this as easy as possible. (Despite how complicated I've made it). I felt like making trapezoidal inlays was a step farther than I wanted to go.
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If leave off the first one. and trapezoid the rest, that balances out right?
I've also figured out how to set up my tablesaw fence to be able to cut these very accurately!
My plan for the bindings around the inlays was to use acetone to join a section of binding together (about 2 ft) and then use my bandsaw to cut it in half width wise on my bandsaw. I plan to make a simple jig for this using the fence on my bandsaw. This should give me a strip about 2.5mm wide that when it's standing on end in the slot will be easier to flatten when I am done.
I will also make a simple miter box so that I can use my razor saws to cut the 45° miters.
My plan for the bindings around the inlays was to use acetone to join a section of binding together (about 2 ft) and then use my bandsaw to cut it in half width wise on my bandsaw. I plan to make a simple jig for this using the fence on my bandsaw. This should give me a strip about 2.5mm wide that when it's standing on end in the slot will be easier to flatten when I am done.
I will also make a simple miter box so that I can use my razor saws to cut the 45° miters.
Here it is without the first inlay, I think I prefer it.
You could probably also get away with using the same size block as fret 5 and repeating it for frets 3 and 1, rather than scaling the blocks larger for the lower frets.
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If it were me, I'd leave the block off the 1st fret - I think it's unnecessary and makes for a visually busy design.
FWIW, I like either but I like the version without the first fret marker better. Unless you’re actually doing the yellow markers like your first picture… 
FWIW, I like either but I like the version without the first fret marker better. Unless you’re actually doing the yellow markers like your first picture…
It's abalone inlay with black and cream bindings. The sine wave will be the same abalone binding as the edge of the fretboard.
Just to be difficult, I say do the first fret inlay but also carry the sine wave across the fronts of the blocks.
This one has a first fret inlay and the inlays get a little wider and shorter as they go up the board. They aren't trapezoidal though. That was a bridge too far. 
Spent the afternoon getting the first inlay cut. I think I have learned a few things.
1, this is as hard as I was expecting it to be.
2, I think I can skip the miter cuts on the inlays.. square is just fine.
3, my skills are just not up to doing the vining. I think it would look awesome, but I would bugger it up, and ruin the piece.
Laying out the template.
Made a tiny miter box for the bindings.
Initial inlay block. This one is small enough that I'm using a piece of binding for the middle.
So far so good. 9 more to go, and 22 frets!
1, this is as hard as I was expecting it to be.
2, I think I can skip the miter cuts on the inlays.. square is just fine.
3, my skills are just not up to doing the vining. I think it would look awesome, but I would bugger it up, and ruin the piece.
Laying out the template.
Made a tiny miter box for the bindings.
Initial inlay block. This one is small enough that I'm using a piece of binding for the middle.
So far so good. 9 more to go, and 22 frets!
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Go job! That looks like an excellent start. Now… take a deep breath and do it all again… 
For those of you who have done binding, I am thinking that the 45° bevels are just adding to the difficulty, and realistically don't add much visually once the acetone melts the ends together.
I'm going to try straight cuts tomorrow and see if I like the difference.
I'm going to try straight cuts tomorrow and see if I like the difference.
