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5 string Ricken-Musicman Bass.
- Thread starter Videojunkie
- Start date
That's what I'm wondering. The cross neck pieces are 1" long, so those cream pieces would be easy to cut en masse. The rest will require more individual attention, but square is much easier to deal with than mitered cuts.
If the joints are melted together, then everything will be sanded and maybe even covered in a finish(?), Then it will all be smooth and you won't see the joints.
So, I'd vote for making it easier.
So, I'd vote for making it easier.
Do up a test piece with butted ends and see how looks after melted and sanded.
Do you have extra?
Do you have extra?
Yup. I'm going to have to buy more for the body and neck. I think I have enough for this and the headstock.
Side question, is this what I want to use to "bury" my abalone inserts? They are 0.2mm (think heavy printer paper, not even construction paper) thick, so my intent was to set them below an epoxy surface that I could then sand and polish when I was done.
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The one with the butt ends looks more square all around compared to the one above it.
Once I had a plan and a method, the rest of the inlay routing went very unremarkably. So I went ahead and finished the whole fretboard.
Since I had a few more minutes, I decided to play with the first inlay. I'm really happy that I did. Really looking forward to this fretboard! As I hoped that black and cream really make the abalone pop!
This inlay material is stupid thin, and I will have to paint the backing black to make it work right. But, I couldn't be happier with the results!
Since I had a few more minutes, I decided to play with the first inlay. I'm really happy that I did. Really looking forward to this fretboard! As I hoped that black and cream really make the abalone pop!
This inlay material is stupid thin, and I will have to paint the backing black to make it work right. But, I couldn't be happier with the results!
Went ahead and cut the fret slots and getting all the bindings for the inlays cut. All the little tiny pieces! Be glad when this is done!
Bought a set of syringes to apply the acetone to melt the bindings in place. Seems to have worked well, I'll know for sure when I start radius sanding the fretboard.
Next up the binding around the edges I'll probably do this and the SCP at the same time, and then both fretboards will be complete and ready for fretting.
Bought a set of syringes to apply the acetone to melt the bindings in place. Seems to have worked well, I'll know for sure when I start radius sanding the fretboard.
Next up the binding around the edges I'll probably do this and the SCP at the same time, and then both fretboards will be complete and ready for fretting.
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I'm still not sure what kind of clear epoxy to use. Part of the issue is that I only need a few ounces of product, and I don't really want to buy a gallon of stuff (or even really a quart!)
Looking on the Amazonians, there are 1000s of options, of which I am certain that a large percentage are literally junk.
Looking on the Amazonians, there are 1000s of options, of which I am certain that a large percentage are literally junk.
That could look pretty cool with just the outlines of the inlays and keep the centers maple. I mean, the abalone looks great, that was just a “thinking out loud” sorta thing.
If I hadn't already routed the middles that could be possible. Ideas for next time!
I hear you. I bought the smallest size of West System 207 because, although it’s expensive, there seems to be a pretty clear consensus that it’s not junk. And 207 supposedly has a longer shelf life than the other West System variants, so hopefully I’ll use it up before it goes bad.
Fretboard is bound, slotted and ready for inlays.
Some idiot (me) forgot to go back and deepen the fret slots, so that will be an interesting exercise to deepen. (They were deep enough before I radiused the board) Considering getting a 0.6mm bit for my dremel to do this...
Some idiot (me) forgot to go back and deepen the fret slots, so that will be an interesting exercise to deepen. (They were deep enough before I radiused the board) Considering getting a 0.6mm bit for my dremel to do this...
I might just use super glue, I have a decent sized bottle of the thick, and I don't expect to use it before it goes bad. We're talking about fractions of a mm to fill...
Ok, I am going to resurrect something I did during my EUB build, I want to take just a minute to thank all of the folks who are checking in on this thread, commenting, and generally encouraging me along this build. I really can't express how much I appreciate the feedback.
There's still a long ways to go, but I am really happy with the progress so far, and for the first time, I have enough of the parts where I can really get a visual of what this is going to look like.
It's so cool to draw something in a computer and see it come to life!
There's still a long ways to go, but I am really happy with the progress so far, and for the first time, I have enough of the parts where I can really get a visual of what this is going to look like.
It's so cool to draw something in a computer and see it come to life!
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After a week long road trip, I had a little bit of time in the shop this evening. Went ahead and cut the neck profile. I also used my planes to set the angle of the headstock.
I used some of the scrap from the neck to add the ears on the headstock. It's a bit different than the original plan, but I think I like the results.
It's below freezing outside, so I brought the neck inside to glue up.
I used some of the scrap from the neck to add the ears on the headstock. It's a bit different than the original plan, but I think I like the results.
It's below freezing outside, so I brought the neck inside to glue up.
