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63 Fender Jazz. Need Advice
- Thread starter calmb4tehpwn
- Start date
When i use tung oil i seal first, then use very fine steel wool between coats. Several coats. Make sure you oil it in a dust free environment. vacuum or wipe the surface with soft cloth before each next coat. Polish after last coat.
But if it were mine, i'd finish it in oly white and add a tort guard, even though not necessarily age-accurate.
And if you use black hardware you should be shot.
But if it were mine, i'd finish it in oly white and add a tort guard, even though not necessarily age-accurate.
And if you use black hardware you should be shot.
What? Shot? Why?
I've ordered chrome, and plan on hitting it with enamel. I may or may not be sold. If I stay chrome, and stick with tung oil, what color pickguard should I go with?
I've ordered chrome, and plan on hitting it with enamel. I may or may not be sold. If I stay chrome, and stick with tung oil, what color pickguard should I go with?
IF this is a "collectible" bass, then tung oil isn't a finish I would use or recommend using. Oil is a finish that can only create problems for the next owner, because if the body is reasonably good, the most appropriate finish is nitro. Getting the oil off would be a big pain in the butt.
And why enamel? The original finishes on these are lacquer, which is available as acrylic lacquer in the Dupli-Color cans in any parts store.
My suggestion - seal it, shoot a base coat on, then hit it with a can of acrylic lacquer from the auto parts store. Choose white if undecided - that's an original color, although it won't be a match for an original Fender color. If the next owner wants something different, they can strip it...or, why not ask the next owner what color they want, then do it that way?
You'll still have to finish sand it (multiple passes with various grits, wet sanding) then polish it, and that's going to be a few hours of labor in any case.
I just keep coming back to the issue of doing something halfway vs. putting in just a little more effort and getting it pretty near right.
And why enamel? The original finishes on these are lacquer, which is available as acrylic lacquer in the Dupli-Color cans in any parts store.
My suggestion - seal it, shoot a base coat on, then hit it with a can of acrylic lacquer from the auto parts store. Choose white if undecided - that's an original color, although it won't be a match for an original Fender color. If the next owner wants something different, they can strip it...or, why not ask the next owner what color they want, then do it that way?
You'll still have to finish sand it (multiple passes with various grits, wet sanding) then polish it, and that's going to be a few hours of labor in any case.
I just keep coming back to the issue of doing something halfway vs. putting in just a little more effort and getting it pretty near right.
Some good advice here about the tung oil applications, but also about the next owner potentially removing it per their individual tastes. IMO the bass will be worth more if it's painted properly and restored to original appeal as much as possible, even with some reissue hardware..good move on the chrome instead of black, btw.
You want this trade to work out in your favor for your mystery dream bass (I have a feeling it's not a Fender), I'd keep the aesthetics of a real vintage vibe going with this P bass as much as you can. There's some really cool options in the vintage Fender color library to give that thing some real mojo for the next owner to enjoy. I would...
You want this trade to work out in your favor for your mystery dream bass (I have a feeling it's not a Fender), I'd keep the aesthetics of a real vintage vibe going with this P bass as much as you can. There's some really cool options in the vintage Fender color library to give that thing some real mojo for the next owner to enjoy. I would...
What about trans black with a natural wood pickguard?
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/most-beautiful-bass-ive-ever-seen-442977/
something like that?
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/most-beautiful-bass-ive-ever-seen-442977/
something like that?
Meh. I'd assemble it using all of the parts and pieces that came with it, as is. No finish on the body other than the natural oils from your hands from handling it. I'd just mildly clean up the parts to get the unhealthy funk off and to make it playable, but without disturbing the underlying wood or metal, and put it together as-is, to preserve whatever spirit it has. Let it develop it's own patina from use. Just my $0.02.
Make a fair offer (I'd say about $300), but make sure you see pictures before you buy it, and don't give the money until you see it.
Okay, I just looked at those pics again...
Honestly, that bass could be reeealllly sweet. No offense, but OP, I think your ideas to restore this thing are kinda of...well...off the mark. But I guess, it's just my opinion, and you certainly don't have to listen to me or others who have given some pretty solid ideas too...
If you want to sell it, you really want to try and keep the vintage appeal. Wood pick guards and and tung oil finishes aren't what most people who would appreciate a vintage P bass would necessarily choose. This could end up with you putting a lot of work into this bass and not getting what you want for it.
I'd spray the body with thin layers of black nitro, and buff the finish to a semi-gloss, or almost matte look. Throw an early 70's headstock logo on it and be pretty much done with it.
I'd even leave that gold PG on there. It would look very "road warrior" IMO.
That, or leave it as is, and let the next guy do what he wants with it. Personally, I'd look into one of the skilled guys on TB who do killer restorations and see what they'd charge you for a refin/restore.
Sidenote: Those knobs look REALLY old to me. I'd PM John10K and ask him what he thinks of them...they could be from the 50's or something and he'd be able to identify them immediately. Thats a nice chunk of change if they're that old...
I think this chart is from 1966, but man, you could pick ANY color and make this thing look amazing. Sonic Blue, Firemist Gold Metallic, Silver Metallic, Dakota Red...
Honestly, that bass could be reeealllly sweet. No offense, but OP, I think your ideas to restore this thing are kinda of...well...off the mark. But I guess, it's just my opinion, and you certainly don't have to listen to me or others who have given some pretty solid ideas too...
If you want to sell it, you really want to try and keep the vintage appeal. Wood pick guards and and tung oil finishes aren't what most people who would appreciate a vintage P bass would necessarily choose. This could end up with you putting a lot of work into this bass and not getting what you want for it.
I'd spray the body with thin layers of black nitro, and buff the finish to a semi-gloss, or almost matte look. Throw an early 70's headstock logo on it and be pretty much done with it.
I'd even leave that gold PG on there. It would look very "road warrior" IMO.
That, or leave it as is, and let the next guy do what he wants with it. Personally, I'd look into one of the skilled guys on TB who do killer restorations and see what they'd charge you for a refin/restore.
Sidenote: Those knobs look REALLY old to me. I'd PM John10K and ask him what he thinks of them...they could be from the 50's or something and he'd be able to identify them immediately. Thats a nice chunk of change if they're that old...
I think this chart is from 1966, but man, you could pick ANY color and make this thing look amazing. Sonic Blue, Firemist Gold Metallic, Silver Metallic, Dakota Red...
The basics are:
Get a smooth wood finish and fill any gouges or depressions with an appropriate wood filler
Go over it with a grain sealer - follow with light sanding
Put a paint stick in the neck hole (Google it)
Spray a base coat (Kilz will actually work...and is available at Home Depot in rattle cans) - light sanding
Spray a couple or three top coats. As I noted above, acrylic lacquer such as Dupli-Color works well and is non-toxic to spray, and its wear patterns match those of nitro lacquer pretty well. You could match any of those 1966 colors (see them at Provide.net) pretty closely with cans from an auto parts store.
Light finish sanding (1000 / 1500 / 2000 wet/dry) and then a good polish, and you'll find it's looking good. No oil, no problems for the next owner, and I bet they find the paint job wonderful.
Get a smooth wood finish and fill any gouges or depressions with an appropriate wood filler
Go over it with a grain sealer - follow with light sanding
Put a paint stick in the neck hole (Google it)
Spray a base coat (Kilz will actually work...and is available at Home Depot in rattle cans) - light sanding
Spray a couple or three top coats. As I noted above, acrylic lacquer such as Dupli-Color works well and is non-toxic to spray, and its wear patterns match those of nitro lacquer pretty well. You could match any of those 1966 colors (see them at Provide.net) pretty closely with cans from an auto parts store.
Light finish sanding (1000 / 1500 / 2000 wet/dry) and then a good polish, and you'll find it's looking good. No oil, no problems for the next owner, and I bet they find the paint job wonderful.
Well, since I've already got a buyer on the line, I'm not looking to do Any finish I can't do myself. In my attempt to restore the brass puckguard, I all but ruined it. I'm not convinced that its brass. Seems to be brass plated. So I'm getting a replacement vintage brass pickguard, only difference between the old one is that its less corroded and has holes for the pickup cover and thumbrest in the correct position.
I think I'm going to leave it as is, that way anyone after me can choose to fully restore. Just going to get it standing on its feet again.
I'll take another photoshoot once its complete. It looks good. I want that new nut, so I can check the action. I've got the neck on and everything lines up, but we'll see when we got some string tension.
I think I'm going to leave it as is, that way anyone after me can choose to fully restore. Just going to get it standing on its feet again.
I'll take another photoshoot once its complete. It looks good. I want that new nut, so I can check the action. I've got the neck on and everything lines up, but we'll see when we got some string tension.
we want to hear details
