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$67 Glarry P-Bass

If your Glarry basses are anything like the kit I bought then the fretboard is not rosewood but very thin strips of of wood glued together. My guess is that it is dyed to look like rosewood and not strips of the real thing.

Can anyone with a Glarry have a very close look and see if their fretboard is the same.

Mine isn’t like that but I’ve seen photographs of ones that appear to be like that but I honestly think it’s the way they’ve been machine planed and have left slight uneven ridges that may appear to look like thin veneers lengthwise…?

(It now Turns out I was wrong about this @least RE: my own Glarry’s fretboard)
 
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View attachment 3366114 All right. I admit it. I couldn’t leave well enough alone.

I modded my Glarry P-Bass.

I couldn’t live with the white pickguard. So, I went on Amazon and bought a tort pickguard for under $12.

While I was there, I saw Fender Original P-Bass pickups for $65 shipped. And I also saw a wiring kit with CTS pots, Orange Drop cap, Switchcraft jack and push-back wire for under $15. So I bought it all.

It all arrived last week. I started to work, but there were issues:
- The pickguard was cut to fit a Fender MIM. It needed to have the neck cutout trimmed. No big deal.
- The control panel route would not accommodate 24mm CTS pots. This was a big deal. I wasn’t going to route the control cavity.

So, back to Amazon, where I found 250k audio mini pots (14mm) with solid shafts by Bourns - at $10 each. They were ordered, and arrived in two shipments on Friday and today, Sunday. While waiting for the pots to arrive, I whittled the pickguard’s neck pocket and fitted it. None of the screw holes lined up,and two of the pickguard holes were over the control cavity route near the jack. Grrr! I was able to run a longer screw at an angle to secure the pickguard and jack, so a workaround was found.

Soldered up everything, located the pickup in the pickguard and body cavity pretty easily and tested. Got sound and control response - yes! Buttoned it all up, set the action a little lower and re-intonated, and sat down with my jam buddy to play for awhile.

The Fender Original pickup sounded more dynamically responsive and articulate, and were somewhat more powerful overall. Was it worth it? On balance, yes... but I couldn’t stand the look of the white pickguard, so that prompted the project. If I liked the stock pickguard, I could have easily swapped the pickup, kept the stock electronics, and been happy with the improvement. But I like the look of a vintage Fender. See the pic.


You’re as bad as me!! ;-)
 
Ran across some competition for the Glarry. :laugh:

109 bucks. The Rogue LX200B Series III....

It also comes in a 205(5 string) and a 200BF(fretless).
But at twice the price, is it really that much better than a Glarry?
Twice the price, lol. Not like we're talking a 500 vs 1000 dollar bass here.
And they're even sold by Musician's Friend.

Guitar Center sells the "higher end" Invalid Link Removed vs the LX205, for $179.00
Might be worth it for my 1st 5 string to play around on without getting into a lot of money.

This guy makes the LX200 sound pretty friggin' good. A lot better than what I expected for 109 bucks anyway.
 
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Ran across some competition for the Glarry. :laugh:

109 bucks. The Rogue LX200B Series III....

It also comes in a 205(5 string) and a 200BF(fretless).
But at twice the price, is it really that much better than a Glarry?
Twice the price, lol. Not like we're talking a 500 vs 1000 dollar bass here.
And they're even sold by Musician's Friend.

Guitar Center sells the "higher end" Invalid Link Removed vs the LX205, for $179.00
Might be worth it for my 1st 5 string to play around on without getting into a lot of money.

This guy makes the LX200 sound pretty friggin' good. A lot better than what I expected for 109 bucks anyway.



but it’s not a P!!?
;-)
 
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Mine isn’t like that but I’ve seen photographs of ones that appear to be like that but I honestly think it’s the way they’ve been machine planed and have left slight uneven ridges that may appear to look like thin veneers lengthwise…?

Fretboard and D string 01.jpg


Mine is definitely individual strips of wood, the whole fretboard has the same parallel lines on it. That is the D string in shot (0.075") which puts the strips at about 0.03" wide by my guestimation.

I will admit that at first glance it does look like solid wood, it was only when I got a lot of light on it that I saw the individual strips.

(The colour is wrong as the photo was taken with a camera probe that is illuminated with LEDs.)
 
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View attachment 3366388

Mine is definitely individual strips of wood, the whole fretboard has the same parallel lines on it. That is the D string in shot (0.075") which puts the strips at about 0.03" wide by my guestimation.

I will admit that at first glance it does look like solid wood, it was only when I got a lot of light on it that I saw the individual strips.

(The colour is wrong as the photo was taken with a camera probe that is illuminated with LEDs.)


After looking at your photo I’ve taken the bass out into Bright sunlight (a rare commodity here in the UK!) And I have to say you are totally right!

I’m sorry I misinformed you but now I have to agree with you They’ve just used rosewood binding (or maybe tinted lighter wood?!) to build up a fretboard!

While this is all very commendable in the sense of dwindling natural resources, etc, it does mean that refretting these things will be a nightmare!

I think we are finally in the age of the disposable neck...
 
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Just checked my brace of Glarrys. Whatever wood the fingerboard is made of, on mine it is one solid piece.

Well Spotted Delta7fred!

No doubt this will become a future trend :-(

It makes frets easier to push in, no doubt, as the tangs will slip easily between the fibres of the strips of wood but I feel sure, in the event of a re-fret, that pulling them out will splinter both sides of, what is affectively, endgrain
 
View attachment 3366545 View attachment 3366546

Well Spotted Delta7fred!

No doubt this will become a future trend :-(

It makes frets easier to push in, no doubt, as the tangs will slip easily between the fibres of the strips of wood but I feel sure, in the event of a re-fret, that pulling them out will splinter both sides of, what is affectively, endgrain

Before too hastily hopping on the woodstrip bandwagon I would look at the fingerboard from the butt end of the bass, at the endgrain. If the 'board is composed of stripwood the lines between the strips should be glaringly obvious.
 
Before too hastily hopping on the woodstrip bandwagon I would look at the fingerboard from the butt end of the bass, at the endgrain. If the 'board is composed of stripwood the lines between the strips should be glaringly obvious.

You’d think so but on my Glarry the sanding is so rough it covers it

besides if I’d’ve jumped that wagon too hastily then I wouldn’t’ve had to take back my original conclusions!
(did I mention I was silly?)

Of course one of the things this whole forum post shows is that there’s many variations on this model -even down to the brand- so Y M M V:thumbsup:
 
You’d think so but on my Glarry the sanding is so rough it covers it

besides if I’d’ve jumped that wagon too hastily then I wouldn’t’ve had to take back my original conclusions!
(did I mention I was silly?)

Of course one of the things this whole forum post shows is that there’s many variations on this model -even down to the brand- so Y M M V:thumbsup:

It also must be kept in mind that my sample is considerably different. I have had my basses going on something like two years; this thread is about contemporary instruments. A lot can change in two years.

I think you are less silly than you are Glaresy 'cross the Mersey. ;)