$67 Glarry P-Bass

[merseymale]

It also must be kept in mind that my sample is considerably different. I have had my basses going on something like two years; this thread is about contemporary instruments. A lot can change in two years.

I think you are less silly than you are Glaresy 'cross the Mersey.

I think yourself & other ‘early adopters’ got hold of the best batch, I reckon, ‘likely the kind of instruments GLarry wanted people to review and talk about but having said that I’m still glad I got this bass because it’s light & I like tinkering & modding musical stuff but for those who don’t (let’s face it that’s the majority of people!) These could be a bit of a disappointment

Of course, if I get my partial refund as promised, from the eBay seller then absolutely no one can complain about these plucky precision’s

 

[GretschWretch]

I think yourself & other ‘early adopters’ got hold of the best batch, I reckon, ‘likely the kind of instruments GLarry wanted people to review and talk about but having said that I’m still glad I got this bass because it’s light & I like tinkering & modding musical stuff but for those who don’t (let’s face it that’s the majority of people!) These could be a bit of a disappointment

Of course, if I get my partial refund as promised, from the eBay seller then absolutely no one can complain about these plucky precision’s

My batch breaks down thusly:

Crescent 2
Glarry 2
Irin 1
Unbadged 2

The Glarrys are the lightest of a light bunch. The Crescents and the Irin are best in terms of finish and overall quality, and their necks have more finish that seals out climate change.

 

[BadSanta1281]

The Crescents and the Irin are best in terms of finish and overall quality, and their necks have more finish that seals out climate change.

So are you saying we can solve the global climate change crisis with more finish on our necks?
Genius!

 

[delta7fred]

Pretty much like merseymale's fretboard end mine has pretty deep sanding scratches that makes it difficult to make out anything conclusive.

On wetting the end grain the plot thickens, it looks to be not strips but 30 thou square pieces of wood, I will have a good look and get another photo when I get chance but have to pack for a gig now.

I'm sure at the price the manufacturers are getting for these instruments consistency is the last thing on their minds. No doubt the CITES agreement has had some bearing on the wood they are now using.

 

[GretschWretch]

So are you saying we can solve the global climate change crisis with more finish on our necks?
Genius!

Sure! Insect repellent, suntan lotion. Seriously, it's just the Crescents and Irin require fewer truss rod adjustments than the others. You can see the differences in neck finish among the basses quite easily.

 

[merseymale]

Well... N E W S!!
I’ve received a £27 refund from my yellow bass’ Ebay seller!!
-THEIR preference AND AFTER I’d already left positive, 5star FeedBack!

Now THATS a seller!

So. I’m gonna budget £80-£100 for a custom bass for myself!

Body & hardware: £22.99 for a start!

I’ve got two pick ups I must’ve spent a total of about £15 on...

A custom pickguard will be around £10
& Electrics, etc likely be the same...

I’m waiting on a set of £30 graphtech bridge saddles I was gonna try on another bass (or flip em?) but Maybe this ‘Mella Yella’ bass Project deserves em more?

If I can get more than £5 for the neck -minus machine heads- on eBay then I reckon I can spring for a new & better Chinese neck & bring this all in cheaper than a Squier yet rivalling a MiM Fender?!

Despite being lucky enough to not suffer a bad back, I’m really attached to the idea of a lightweight bass that has a more focused sound than a hollow body

Fingers Crossed

 

[delta7fred]

I can't get a half decent photo of the body end of the fingerboard because of the sanding marks but here is the headstock end beyond the nut where the fretboard tapers down to meet the headstock.

The white at the right of the photo is the nut. Again the D string is in shot.

 

[danesdad]

I think yourself & other ‘early adopters’ got hold of the best batch, I reckon, ‘likely the kind of instruments GLarry wanted people to review and talk about but having said that I’m still glad I got this bass because it’s light & I like tinkering & modding musical stuff but for those who don’t (let’s face it that’s the majority of people!) These could be a bit of a disappointment

Of course, if I get my partial refund as promised, from the eBay seller then absolutely no one can complain about these plucky precision’s

Tho I'm not as much a tinkerer as you, I'm also glad I got this. My son fools around with it a lot, and this keeps him away from my more valuable basses.

 

[Warriors Lance]

my fretboards look like that too. I had considered buying a second P bass and pulling the frets, but that tends to be a very very bad idea with plywood fretboards, so I would have to get the frets out another way...... wonder how hard it is to grind the frets off? certainly not as hard as evo or stainless frets, but what about controlling the depth of the grinder? I'd hate to grind into the 'wood'.....

 

[merseymale]

my fretboards look like that too. I had considered buying a second P bass and pulling the frets, but that tends to be a very very bad idea with plywood fretboards, so I would have to get the frets out another way...... wonder how hard it is to grind the frets off? certainly not as hard as evo or stainless frets, but what about controlling the depth of the grinder? I'd hate to grind into the 'wood'.....

You could put a few layers of tape either side of the fresh just make sure the press down quite hard, harder than you normally would want to... maybe masking tape first then maybe another layer including foil tape & finishing off with PVC electrical table or something durable so the wood on the sides of the frets are quite “reinforced“

make sure they butt right up close to the sides (not ends!) Of the fret then try pulling them out in the usual ways

If any splinters come out or splits appear you’ll find that they’ll likely stay adhered to the tape in just the right place and can be re-glued with aliphatic resin/titebond or similar -NOT PVC/white glue- while still attached to the papery masquing tape and left to dry before attempting to pull another fret

There should be slots available, after the occasional clear with a sharp blade, to allow you to put in dark or contrasting wood, etc, strips, perhaps made from binding material.

Good Luck

 

[Warriors Lance]

Alternative ways to remove the frets could be to

a) heat the frets up rather warm to loosen them and pull them. That might work, or might just make the fretboard come apart easier too.

b) Another would be to just remove the plywood fretboard/fingerboard by heat and prying, and then replace the fretboard. That could be a ugly operation. I want/need fret lines on the fretless version so a plain fingerboard is not desired. I would have to saw new slots in the replacement board or buy a already slotted fretboard. (This alternative might allow me address the truss rod issue on that first P bass and there are some rather cool looking fretboard blanks available)

c) I could study how to push the frets sideways instead of pulling up, like this:


d) i could do what merseymale said.

e) still thinking.

I have not yet purchased the second P bass for this conversion and the seller just went out of stock, so I have more time to think about it.

 

[merseymale]

Alternative ways to remove the frets could be to

a) heat the frets up rather warm to loosen them and pull them. That might work, or might just make the fretboard come apart easier too.

b) Another would be to just remove the plywood fretboard/fingerboard by heat and prying, and then replace the fretboard. That could be a ugly operation. I want/need fret lines on the fretless version so a plain fingerboard is not desired. I would have to saw new slots in the replacement board or buy a already slotted fretboard. (This alternative might allow me address the truss rod issue on that first P bass and there are some rather cool looking fretboard blanks available)

c) I could study how to push the frets sideways instead of pulling up, like this:


d) i could do what merseymale said.

e) still thinking.

I have not yet purchased the second P bass for this conversion and the seller just went out of stock, so I have more time to think about it.

A) Heat could expand the metal and make the fret larger and the fingerboard dryer which will make it more prone to cracking too

B) I would imagine you’d have to love the rest of the neck; its profile and everything to even consider getting THAT involved!

C) fender did that for a period of its history purely to allow less skilled workers to install frets and remember Leo’s original idea was to have disposable necks hence the Bolt-On concept in general

In short, if you try and take frets out sideways that weren’t originally put in sideways then that could potentially be the worst of both worlds…?

D) don’t listen to that clown!!

E) be sure to play while thinking...

 

[GretschWretch]

I like Glarry Jbass guitar. The price is lower than guitar I've ever bought before, but it's a good value for the money. For now, this bass only has sunset left. Good luck!
Glarry GJazz Electric Bass Guitar Sunset Black & White - Glarrymusic

This is a different headstock than I've seen on any other Glarry, which so far has always been pure Fender.

 

[Warriors Lance]

A) Heat could expand the metal and make the fret larger and the fingerboard dryer which will make it more prone to cracking too

B) I would imagine you’d have to love the rest of the neck; its profile and everything to even consider getting THAT involved!

C) fender did that for a period of its history purely to allow less skilled workers to install frets and remember Leo’s original idea was to have disposable necks hence the Bolt-On concept in general

In short, if you try and take frets out sideways that weren’t originally put in sideways then that could potentially be the worst of both worlds…?

D) don’t listen to that clown!!

E) be sure to play while thinking...

Found this tool set for pulling frets. Might minimize the tearout/pullout of 'wood' fibers.
GuitarTechs FRET PULLERS and PRY - 2 Tool Set for Guitar Luthier Chip Stopper | eBay

I would fill the fret slots and then level the fretboard, followed by applying high quality super glue to the fretboard to make it resistant to the strings. I have lots of this glue already.

 

[G19Tony]

I mentioned in an earlier post, that I didn't like the setup I did, so I took it to a shop I use. I'll be picking it up today. Report to follow.

 

[G19Tony]

I picked up my Bass today. In addition to the setup, Jim fixed the frets, which were sharp and sprouting. I guess I didn't do a very good job. He played the Bass for a bit. It sounds good. The setup and fret work, including EB Slinkys was $97. So I'm into this Bass for $162. I think it's still a good deal for a lightweight playable bass.

 

[Bass Man Dan]

I picked up my Bass today. In addition to the setup, Jim fixed the frets, which were sharp and sprouting. I guess I didn't do a very good job. He played the Bass for a bit. It sounds good. The setup and fret work, including EB Slinkys was $97. So I'm into this Bass for $162. I think it's still a good deal for a lightweight playable bass.

Good on ya, Tony! 7 pounds of p bass goodness!

 

[Mebsuta]

I want one now.

 

[merseymale]

Found this tool set for pulling frets. Might minimize the tearout/pullout of 'wood' fibers.
GuitarTechs FRET PULLERS and PRY - 2 Tool Set for Guitar Luthier Chip Stopper | eBay

I would fill the fret slots and then level the fretboard, followed by applying high quality super glue to the fretboard to make it resistant to the strings. I have lots of this glue already.

Now that’s a great tool!
Thanks for bringing it to my attention

 

[merseymale]

I mentioned in an earlier post, that I didn't like the setup I did, so I took it to a shop I use. I'll be picking it up today. Report to follow.

‘Look forward to hearing what they have to say…