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$67 Glarry P-Bass

#421
ChaosYT said:
No you can’t replace the pickguard on these as you’d be left with gap near the output jack and it doesn’t really fit.
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It takes some work, but it’s possible. The Jazz was no problem at all.
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#422
I got the natural P-bass. The only difference is, mine doesn't have a headstock logo and isn't from Glarry. Otherwise, it looks and sounds exactly like the video review on page 1. The only fault that I found with mine is, the tone control doesn't seem to work. Turn the knob, and there's no noticeable difference in sound. Maybe that's why it was sold without a headstock logo.
 
#423
fretter said:
I got the natural P-bass. The only difference is, mine doesn't have a headstock logo and isn't from Glarry. Otherwise, it looks and sounds exactly like the video review on page 1. The only fault that I found with mine is, the tone control doesn't seem to work. Turn the knob, and there's no noticeable difference in sound. Maybe that's why it was sold without a headstock logo.
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Some of these were being sold without headstock logos two years ago.
 
#425
I'm actually starting to like that thick neck because it provides support to the hand wrapping around it. When playing bass as a low frequency lead guitar, the slimmer faster neck may be an answer.
I suppose I'll have to get the red tortoise shell blank then trace the pattern out. It's fair business to not make direct fit parts to other people's invention unless a license to manufacture direct fit parts is issued.
 
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#427
Bubble said:
I like the battle basses Ronzo. Nice shielding. They would add a bit more weight to help balance the heavy neck drop problem. Add the highest weight high mass bridge also.
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Actually, a wide sueded leather strap balances both of those pretty well. No real neck dive.

The bridge cover doesn’t fit the high mass bridges. I prefer the lightness, in any case.
 
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#428
fretter said:
I got the natural P-bass. The only difference is, mine doesn't have a headstock logo and isn't from Glarry. Otherwise, it looks and sounds exactly like the video review on page 1. The only fault that I found with mine is, the tone control doesn't seem to work. Turn the knob, and there's no noticeable difference in sound. Maybe that's why it was sold without a headstock logo.
Click to expand...

There are half a dozen companies online selling the exact same basses, Glarry just adds their logo to theirs. Here is the newest one to pop up online. They don't carry the yellow one though.

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#430
mbell75 said:
Nice! Lucky you get the 20 fret model! Those seem to be the better models. I really like that grainy look to it and I usually don't like burst type finishes. Looks better than my black one! Does the back of it look like that too?
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Thanks! The back is dark...no readily visible grain.

Ronzo said:
Glad to see and hear that you did well! It looks beautiful. Any nut-related concerns besides the apparent high slot on the E string? I had to shim the nut on my J, and I’m still working on it.
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Thanks! No other nut related issues found yet. I’m not liking the stock strings much...they’re not horrible, but not great. I’m going to change them soon, I think. I might take a stab at a Musiclily tortoise guard fitting while I’m at it....maybe.
 
#431
Thatbastarddon said:
I’m not liking the stock strings much...they’re not horrible, but not great. I’m going to change them soon, I think. I might take a stab at a Musiclily tortoise guard fitting while I’m at it....maybe.
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Regarding the strings: I felt the need to change them immediately. Put Ernie Ball Regular Slinkys on both the P and J versions.

Regarding the Musiclily tort pickguard: What I found was that the pickguard needed to be rotated a couple of degrees clockwise to get the “tail” of the pickguard to cover the control route. That means the bass side of the neck cutout needs to be trimmed at a sight angle, and the base of the neck cutout needs to be relieved on the bass side as well, to allow the pickguard to mate properly with the bottom of the neck. It required whittling and hand-fitting to accomplish this. I give myself an 85-90% grade on this; if you look closely at the bass side of the pickguard cutout, it isn’t as well-fitted as the treble side. Since the bass’ finish is sunburst (and dark beneath my poor craftsmanship), it isn’t as apparent as it would be on a white finish.
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But for 12 bucks... if you like tort, it’s worth a shot, IMO.
 
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#432
Ronzo said:
Regarding the strings: I felt the need to change them immediately. Put Ernie Ball Regular Slinkys on both the P and J versions.

Regarding the Musiclily tort pickguard: What I found was that the pickguard needed to be rotated a couple of degrees clockwise to get the “tail” of the pickguard to cover the control route. That means the bass side of the neck cutout needs to be trimmed at a sight angle, and the base of the neck cutout needs to be relieved on the bass side as well, to allow the pickguard to mate properly with the bottom of the neck. It required whittling and hand-fitting to accomplish this. I give myself an 85-90% grade on this; if you look closely at the bass side of the pickguard cutout, it isn’t as well-fitted as the treble side. Since the bass’ finish is sunburst (and dark beneath my poor craftsmanship), it isn’t as apparent as it would be on a white finish.
View attachment 3450588

But for 12 bucks... if you like tort, it’s worth a shot, IMO.
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Thanks for the info. I'll try again. I think the tort pickguard I have would look great with the burlywood.
 
#433
Bubble said:
I think what I will do is trim the fat from the sides of the D curve by rasping then sanding smooth a bit at a time until I get it the way I would like. That way I am less likely to go too far and have to buy a replacement neck. For those who find it too thick and don't want to try, there are many finished (?) necks on Ebay for about $50 USD.

I'm not sure it would be easy to trim 1/8 to 3/16 off each side of the neck with the frets installed. I think trimming each fret off with a thin diamond Dremel wheel would take the frets off, but likely to dig into the fret board. And the big one, the frets would be staggered. Filing it off in the direction of the neck parallel sounds like a try but may work the frets loose.
I need to consult an expert on this.

Sounds great on an Ampeg BA210-V2 sitting on top of a BSE115T cabinet but the pickups seem a bit weak. Ok new mod, a passive/active switchable amp on Ebay for about $25. Or else just take advantage of the huge overhead I have on amp power.
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Same with my Glarry P RE: weak pickups. It takes more amp to approach the volume and tone I get from my other basses. Someday, I'll get some Demarzios or Fender P pickups, but for now, I'll just turn it up.
 
#434
As I stated earlier in the Glarry thread, I installed a Fender “Original” P-bass pickup in my Glarry P. It sounds really good in that bass. Especially for $65 USD shipped from Amazon Prime. If I didn’t hate the white pickguard, I could have soldered two leads and been very happy with installing just the new pickup. Changing to the Bourns 14mm pots - CTS 24mm models wouldn’t fit the control route - gained me nothing. The original pots and cap were perfectly serviceable, and the wiring was clean.

My MIM Fender P with Quarter Pounders and flats is a different tonal flavor. It’s nice to have both available, and the lighter weight of the Glarry is a blessing for my tired, old back.

Regarding the Glarry J, I saw no reason at all to change the pickups or any of the wiring. After seeing the preview of the new Godzilla movie, I plugged it in the following morning and played along with Blue Öyster Cult’s tune, and it nailed the growl with the stock pickups. After installing a brass nut and shimming to the correct height (thanks, Axemasters!), it’s solved the neck issues for me. Fretwork was better done than I originally thought it was.
 
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#435
Their basses are now $79.99, currently running what seems to be a usual 6% off "sale", with the price currently at $74.99. That's about a $10 increase in 6 months. The more popular they get, the higher the price will rise, so should we purchase now while the going is good?
 
#436
Minor adjustments needed for the pick guard then, thanks.

I attached a 1/2 lb flashlight to the back of the strap on the tail side strap peg. It balanced much better. I think a 3/4 or one lb weight on the strap just above the strap peg to clear the bass body if on the inside of the strap, mounted on the outer side of the strap, allows the weight to be closer to the strap peg for a slight increase in leverage. Maybe some sort of steel weight in a container and attached attractively would look natural as if it were meant to store some thing. Avoid tire weights because of lead poisoning hazards.

I just get one strap for each guitar and lock them on with the Fender silicone strap lock rings. Man what a blessing to never have the strap unhook. And when I pick the guitar up, the strap is there and ready to go. Nice.
 

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