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800w @ 8 Ohm class D head suggestions

I recently acquired a mark Bass for 104 cab will support 800 W @ 8 ohms.
You probably already know this, but many manufacturers of mass-produced bass cabs publish the cab's "thermal" power rating and not the cab's "mechanical" power rating. It's not uncommon for a cab's mechanical power rating (where the speaker blows) to be around half of its thermal rating (where the voice coil melts). So it is possible for a so-called 800 watt cab to actually only handle around 400 watts RMS before blowing the speakers. Many bass cab manufacturers like to publish the thermal rating rather than the mechanical rating because the thermal number is so much higher (it sounds more impressive which translates to higher sales). So if you plan to push more than 400 watts RMS into that cab, my recommendation is, be careful. :cool:
 
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The effect I’m looking for is more punch than bloom. I forgot to mention I use this setting for live ensemble work with FOH, so it’s gig specific. It might sound odd solo’d or in your home, but on the stage in the ensemble you get that Duck Dunn sort of feel. It’s very present and doesn’t need to be overly loud to hear what you are playing. If Ineed a little more bloom for certain songs, I pluck a little closer to the neck.

Sound guys love this approach. They get a pre-EQ feed to the board from the bass with its volume and tone controls wide open they can add as much treble or low end that they need for the house. Since stage wash is reduced everybody on stage can hear better which makes for a better show.
So the high-damping setting then.
 
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This is an example of the wrong tool for the job. There are very few bass amps on the market that cat truly deliver 800 watts RMS into 8 ohms. Almost none actually.

A 4 ohm cabinet would be a MUCH better choice IMO, it opens up a LOT more amp options from a LOT more manufacturers.
The cabinet is the cabinet. It’s purchased. I’m keeping it. I love it. It’s funny, people buy a 4 ohm cabinet and everyone complains that you can’t add to it. Then people buy a 8 ohm cabinet and people tell them a 4 ohm cabinet would be a much better choice. This was the cabinet that was available, I listened to it, I liked it. I purchased it. I’m going to have to work with it. It’s the lightest 410 I’ve ever come across. Shockingly easy to move. Now I just need head. That’s also easy to move.
 
You probably already know this, but many manufacturers of mass-produced bass cabs publish the cab's "thermal" power rating and not the cab's "mechanical" power rating. It's not uncommon for a cab's mechanical power rating (where the speaker blows) to be around half of its thermal rating (where the voice coil melts). So it is possible for a so-called 800 watt cab to actually only handle around 400 watts RMS before blowing the speakers. Many bass cab manufacturers like to publish the thermal rating rather than the mechanical rating because the thermal number is so much higher (it sounds more impressive which translates to higher sales). So if you plan to push more than 400 watts RMS into that cab, my recommendation is, be careful. :cool:
I have run my bridged WT 800 through this cabinet. 800 W, eight ohms. The power is blistering. Unfortunately the head has me concerned. I also have a WTX 500 which runs at 250 W at eight ohms. It is sufficient, but not nearly as full and punchy as the bridged WT 800, as expected. I simply want something in a class D that will do with this WT 800 does bridged
 
I have run my bridged WT 800 through this cabinet. 800 W, eight ohms. The power is blistering. Unfortunately the head has me concerned. I also have a WTX 500 which runs at 250 W at eight ohms. It is sufficient, but not nearly as full and punchy as the bridged WT 800, as expected. I simply want something in a class D that will do with this WT 800 does bridged
Bergantino comes to mind. I know they are currently advertising their new Forte HP Ultra which is a Class D amp that produces 1000 watts RMS into an 8-ohm load. If that is a bit too much, their Forte HP2X produces 600 watts RMS into an 8-ohm load.

 
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The cabinet is the cabinet. It’s purchased. I’m keeping it. I love it. It’s funny, people buy a 4 ohm cabinet and everyone complains that you can’t add to it. Then people buy a 8 ohm cabinet and people tell them a 4 ohm cabinet would be a much better choice. This was the cabinet that was available, I listened to it, I liked it. I purchased it. I’m going to have to work with it. It’s the lightest 410 I’ve ever come across. Shockingly easy to move. Now I just need head. That’s also easy to move.
I hear that. No one tool works for everyone. I've got two 4ohm cabs at home that work great with an 800w amp and two 8ohm Ampeg cabs attached to an ancient Markbass R500 at my practice space. I didn't set out with these setups in mind, just got gear I liked until my understanding of what tools "I need" became more apparent.

I was talking with someone earlier today that my first "separates" rig was an Ampeg SVT4-pro and a single AV112 cabinet. Funny now to think about the awkwardness of that mash up but the guy who sold me the amp threw in the speaker for free so that's what I used. Before that I'd solely used an Ashdown Blue180 combo so what did I know lol.

My 2 cents would be to find a markbass head that meets your power reqs and sounds good as sticking with the same cab and amp company can sometimes have benefits of playing well together. Not always but more often than not in my experience. I know my ancient mb R500 would drive that 410 just fine.
 
The cabinet is the cabinet. It’s purchased. I’m keeping it. I love it. It’s funny, people buy a 4 ohm cabinet and everyone complains that you can’t add to it. Then people buy a 8 ohm cabinet and people tell them a 4 ohm cabinet would be a much better choice. This was the cabinet that was available, I listened to it, I liked it. I purchased it. I’m going to have to work with it. It’s the lightest 410 I’ve ever come across. Shockingly easy to move. Now I just need head. That’s also easy to move.
Sorry for trying to help you understand WHY your speaker choice has created the challenge you are now experiencing trying to find an amp that does what you wish.

Good luck.
 
An Epifani Performance 1000 (used / discontinued) will do 1000 watts bridged into an 8 ohm load (only). They're running ~$550.

Riis
Can they still be serviced if there are problems?
 
I agree about Tube amps...but wil not carry that heavy weight....I am old and lazy!...and in pain

Bergantino makes wonderful amps too and I am sure that if I did not have my Mesa Subway amps, I would be happy with one made by Jim Bergantino.....also who is here on Talkbass, but not as active as Andy @agedhorse , who designed the Subway line.
My Subway D-800+ really satisfies my itch in a world of Class D
 
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How did you have your Eden set for this to match? Thanks.

How did you have your Eden set for this to match? Thanks.
To start with, all tone to controls to 12:00, the three band para metric EQ frequencies set at 12:00 with no boost or cut. Enhance off.

Turn master volume and gain know down all the way. Now play your lowest note as hard as you can, while you gradually increase the gain knob until the limit light starts to flick on and off. That mean your imput gain is set.

Next, boost the frequency 165hz r three clicks. Add a little bass to taste one to so clicks should do it. It should look like the picture.
 

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To start with, all tone to controls to 12:00, the three band para metric EQ frequencies set at 12:00 with no boost or cut. Enhance off.

Turn master volume and gain know down all the way. Now play your lowest note as hard as you can, while you gradually increase the gain knob until the limit light starts to flick on and off. That mean your imput gain is set.

Next, boost the frequency 165hz r three clicks. Add a little bass to taste one to so clicks should do it. It should look like the picture.
From owning a WT-400 with 410XLT and a WD-800 with Subway 210, I am surprised at the lack of upper mids and highs to match (in the WD-800 settings). I know the WT-400 is warmer sounding than the WT-800, but I find that I add mids to the WD-800 / 210 setup to match the sound - I don’t cut anything. Interesting. I always ran my WT-400 flat into the 410XLT (which already had a ton of mids). My Eden setup got retired from performing about a decade ago when I decided I was getting too old in my forties to carry that cabinet up a flight of stairs…
 
I agree about Tube amps...but wil not carry that heavy weight....I am old and lazy!...and in pain
Completely understand and I am going ampless in one band so far this year. Using an Origin Super Vintage direct into the PA (with 15” speakers to still have bass) - weird pedal in that the sound out of the 1/4” jack sounds meh while the DI out with the speaker simulator sounds amazing.
 
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