Ampeg B-100r Rocket Aficionados

[Michael Eisenman]

…
After some research, I found 2 other drawbacks (correct me if I'm wrong) for the b100R that the RB series don't have:
1- You cannot plug any headphones in for late night quiet sesh.
2- No line out to plug in a cab for extra power.

1. There is a headphone out on the amp, and it disconnects the internal speaker.
2. You can’t plug in an extension cabinet. The internal speaker is 4Ω, and the amp is not designed to handle less than that. However, there is a line out so you can plug it into an external amp or maybe a powered speaker.

I attached a copy of the B-100R manual.

 

[Simonizer]

1. There is a headphone out on the amp, and it disconnects the internal speaker.
2. You can’t plug in an extension cabinet. The internal speaker is 4Ω, and the amp is not designed to handle less than that. However, there is a line out so you can plug it into an external amp or maybe a powered speaker.

I attached a copy of the B-100R manual.

Thanks for your good input Michael!
Great to know, do you have any experience with the b100R?
If so, how relevant is the ''old'' b100 VS. the newer Portaflex if one had to choose ? (other than weight and portability)

Cheers!

 

[Michael Eisenman]

Thanks for your good input Michael!
Great to know, do you have any experience with the b100R?
If so, how relevant is the ''old'' b100 VS. the newer Portaflex if one had to choose ? (other than weight and portability)…

I have a B-100R, which is a very good amp. One of the local blues jams uses one as its house amp. I bought another for around $300 because it was available. However, at 65 lbs they are weighty (having casters helps).

Then the RB Series came out, so I sold one of the B-100Rs to purchase an RB-112. Quite different in sound—I think the B-100R was intended to be a solid-state B-15 sound whereas the RB Series has a more “modern” Ampeg sound. (SVT? Not sure as I’ve never played one of those.) I like the RB-112 very much, and at 27 lbs it’s a breeze to move. And if I want to change the sound, I can plug my Tech 21 VT Bass DI into the effects return. It also holds its own volume-wise; I’ve used it on gigs where I thought I’d have to use the DI but found that it was unnecessary (YMMV). It’s a great amp.

I didn’t go for the RB-115 because I knew I’d never add an extension speaker, so it has the same wattage as the RB-112, though it does push a bit more air. It’s also significantly more expensive.

 

[Simonizer]

I have a B-100R, which is a very good amp. One of the local blues jams uses one as its house amp. I bought another for around $300 because it was available. However, at 65 lbs they are weighty (having casters helps).

Then the RB Series came out, so I sold one of the B-100Rs to purchase an RB-112. Quite different in sound—I think the B-100R was intended to be a solid-state B-15 sound whereas the RB Series has a more “modern” Ampeg sound. (SVT? Not sure as I’ve never played one of those.) I like the RB-112 very much, and at 27 lbs it’s a breeze to move. And if I want to change the sound, I can plug my Tech 21 VT Bass DI into the effects return. It also holds its own volume-wise; I’ve used it on gigs where I thought I’d have to use the DI but found that it was unnecessary (YMMV). It’s a great amp.

I didn’t go for the RB-115 because I knew I’d never add an extension speaker, so it has the same wattage as the RB-112, though it does push a bit more air. It’s also significantly more expensive.

Great input again!
Your right, The RB-115 is like 350$ more!
When you say more of a ''modern'' sound, how would you describe that? Cleaner? More punch?

I went to my LMS, and ask a few questions on thoses RB's they had, and right off the bat; they pointed towards the new Boss Katana as a better choice. Solely because of the versatility it has with all the tech behind in and connectivity. But the guy, was quite young (nothing wrong with that), and didnt know anything about the sound of the B100R...

 

[Michael Eisenman]

When you say more of a ''modern'' sound, how would you describe that? Cleaner? More punch?

I think the Rocket Bass Series amps are more rock-oriented, as evidenced by the Super Grit Technology (SGT) that they’ve incorporated into them.

If you can’t listen to them in person, I think the best thing to do is to head for the YouTubes and listen to some samples with headphones. Copy/paste the following into your browser:
site:youtube.com ampeg RB series amps rocket bass

 

[midfieldgeneral]

3 in a row. Loving this amp.

 

[SheaNC]

Hey all, I have been playing my B-100R for years now and I just discovered something new about it. I don't know if this is common knowledge or if it has been posted in TB before, but here it is: When you turn the tone knobs all the way down, and I mean all the way to the left, not just to 12 o'clock, it sounds really good. It's a smooth, warm sound that is a little more bassy. It's a nice sound to add to the other ones it produces. So, is it just me? Have other players noticed this too? Is my amp just a particularly weird example of a B-100R?

 

[Tom Howland]

One of my all time favorite Amped amps. Played one for years. A ballsy 100 watts. Great for Blues, or Rock.

 

[Hoochie Coochie Man]

I have two as well. One was made in USA, and one in China.

My only complaint is the weight, but I don't haul any of my (twenty-three or so) Ampegs anywhere anyway.

 

[shirojiro]

I loved my B100R. It was a phenomenal practice and small gig amp.

I sold it to make space. I found that I was using a GK 400RB and Bag End S15 more often, and I prefer the tone overall for my style.

I do miss the amp though. It not only sounds cool but it looks cool as well.

I also use a SansAmp with the 400RB to get some Ampeg vibes.

 

[zombywoof5050]

Any recommendations for a good set of casters for the B-100R.
I got a set of casters with my B-100R (not sure whether they were factory parts or just some generics that GC threw in with the amp purchase), but I never used them. Eventually, I gave the amp to my son, and he said one of the casters broke shortly after he put them on.

 

[shadven]

I love this amp. I’ve had one or two in my arsenal for over 20 years. I don’t gig with it as much anymore, but I use them at rehearsal, at and sometimes at gigs. I think the B100r “Rocketbass” sounds great and is decent size and they are almost indestructible. I often buy them when I see them and I’ve given one to my son and his band toured the USA with it. I often have more than one so u can leave one at the studio and still have one at home. I also have an Ampeg SB-12, B-15 and a B-18. The B100r sounds great and gets plenty loud nicely keeps up with hard hitting drummers.
They’re so cheap these days, it doesn’t seem right. They are fantastic amps.

 

[Michael Eisenman]

Any recommendations for a good set of casters for the B-100R.
I got a set of casters with my B-100R (not sure whether they were factory parts or just some generics that GC threw in with the amp purchase), but I never used them. Eventually, I gave the amp to my son, and he said one of the casters broke shortly after he put them on.

I’ve bought these twice—for both of the B-100Rs that I had (still have one). They work fine; you ignore the inserts that come with them.

Link to Amazon:

Amazon.com: Reliable Hardware Company RH-9006-SET-A Plug Caster Set, Black & Silver 2 inches : Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: Reliable Hardware Company RH-9006-SET-A Plug Caster Set, Black & Silver 2 inches : Industrial & Scientific

a.co

 

[shadven]

3 in a row. Loving this amp.

View attachment 7015296

I used to gig with two of them connected together. Plenty loud for almost every kind of show. And I think they looked cool.

 

[Michael Eisenman]

I’ve bought these twice—for both of the B-100Rs that I had (still have one). They work fine; you ignore the inserts that come with them.

Link to Amazon:

Amazon.com: Reliable Hardware Company RH-9006-SET-A Plug Caster Set, Black & Silver 2 inches : Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: Reliable Hardware Company RH-9006-SET-A Plug Caster Set, Black & Silver 2 inches : Industrial & Scientific

a.co

I took my B-100R last night to a gig, and the darned thing was rolling around in the back of my car, even after trying to block it in place with other gear. I’m going to look for some casters—only need two—with brakes; the casters that I recommended are fine otherwise.

 

[bthiemann80]

I recently picked up one of these and man oh man.....it's got the sound, looks, vibe, portability, durability (hopefully)...checks all my boxes. It is definitely fighting hard for that desert island spot.

I do have some questions for the group, and yes I have been on TB long enough to have done my due diligence in using the search function. I found some answers but am still needing more.

- My power light does not come on, is it worth getting fixed? It currently does not do the popping thing when being turned on, I read on here that some folks experienced popping, then the light went out, now it does not pop. So this might be a good thing?
- The gain potentiometer is scratchy. I have some deoxyit. What would be the best way to get in there to spray/clean the gain potentiometer?
- The port hole tubes are in great shape, but disconnected. Is there a preferred method/adhesive to use on these to reconnect them? What gains are there to reinstalling the port tubes?
- Is there a recommended caster upgrade? I am thinking it might benefit from some bigger, softer wheels but do not know if they can be bought as drop ins for the current holes

Obligatory pic:

She's a US made one, but I haven't looked up the SN to find out what year. If I posted how much I bought it for, i'm afraid someone might file larceny charges against me. To make matters worse, it still has the clear plastic film on the chrome chassis

Thanks in advance for the guidance! Glad as heck to be among other rocket bass fans!

 

[Michael Eisenman]

I recently picked up one of these and man oh man.....it's got the sound, looks, vibe, portability, durability (hopefully)...checks all my boxes. It is definitely fighting hard for that desert island spot.

I do have some questions for the group, and yes I have been on TB long enough to have done my due diligence in using the search function. I found some answers but am still needing more.

- My power light does not come on, is it worth getting fixed? It currently does not do the popping thing when being turned on, I read on here that some folks experienced popping, then the light went out, now it does not pop. So this might be a good thing?
- The gain potentiometer is scratchy. I have some deoxyit. What would be the best way to get in there to spray/clean the gain potentiometer?
- The port hole tubes are in great shape, but disconnected. Is there a preferred method/adhesive to use on these to reconnect them? What gains are there to reinstalling the port tubes?
- Is there a recommended caster upgrade? I am thinking it might benefit from some bigger, softer wheels but do not know if they can be bought as drop ins for the current holes

Obligatory pic:

View attachment 7160240

She's a US made one, but I haven't looked up the SN to find out what year. If I posted how much I bought it for, i'm afraid someone might file larceny charges against me. To make matters worse, it still has the clear plastic film on the chrome chassis

Thanks in advance for the guidance! Glad as heck to be among other rocket bass fans!

Good score! I prefer my B-100R to my new RB-112, which has a different—but good—sound quality. I’ve been taking the B-100R to more bar gigs lately, and it holds its own in a five-piece group. Same wattage for both amps, but the 15” driver pushes more air. If the other guys in the group can’t hear me, then they’ll have to turn down, though it hasn’t been necessary yet.

See my red note in the attached file for serial number dating.

- My power light does not come on, is it worth getting fixed? It currently does not do the popping thing when being turned on, I read on here that some folks experienced popping, then the light went out, now it does not pop. So this might be a good thing?
A fellow in one of these B-100R threads replaced the bulb with an LED, I think, but he had some difficulty removing the old one and sourcing a replacement, IIRC. Aside from the aesthetics and lack of pop during power-off, I don’t know whether it was worth the trouble. The pop doesn’t bother me.

- The gain potentiometer is scratchy. I have some deoxyit. What would be the best way to get in there to spray/clean the gain potentiometer?
If you can’t clear up the scratchiness by rotating the knob, you’ll need to remove the amp head and get at the pot from behind. I haven’t had to do it myself, but there should be an opening in the body of the pot to spritz—sparingly—the inside.

- The port hole tubes are in great shape, but disconnected. Is there a preferred method/adhesive to use on these to reconnect them? What gains are there to reinstalling the port tubes?
I used a few small pieces of Gorilla Tape (like heavy-duty duct tape) to attach the tubes to the flares, and they’re not going anywhere. The speaker sits in a very small box, so if you use them, and you’ll get the bass response that the designers intended.

- Is there a recommended caster upgrade? I am thinking it might benefit from some bigger, softer wheels but do not know if they can be bought as drop ins for the current holes
I got the following casters at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ18Z2Q

They’re two inches, they work fine, and they’re inexpensive. They’re just like the casters that Ampeg used to sell for the amp. However, the amp rolls around in the back of the vehicle unless I pack it in tightly with the other equipment, so I’m thinking of replacing two of them with locking versions.

 

[bthiemann80]

Good score! I prefer my B-100R to my new RB-112, which has a different—but good—sound quality. I’ve been taking the B-100R to more bar gigs lately, and it holds its own in a five-piece group. Same wattage for both amps, but the 15” driver pushes more air. If the other guys in the group can’t hear me, then they’ll have to turn down, though it hasn’t been necessary yet.

See my red note in the attached file for serial number dating.

- My power light does not come on, is it worth getting fixed? It currently does not do the popping thing when being turned on, I read on here that some folks experienced popping, then the light went out, now it does not pop. So this might be a good thing?
A fellow in one of these B-100R threads replaced the bulb with an LED, I think, but he had some difficulty removing the old one and sourcing a replacement, IIRC. Aside from the aesthetics and lack of pop during power-off, I don’t know whether it was worth the trouble. The pop doesn’t bother me.

- The gain potentiometer is scratchy. I have some deoxyit. What would be the best way to get in there to spray/clean the gain potentiometer?
If you can’t clear up the scratchiness by rotating the knob, you’ll need to remove the amp head and get at the pot from behind. I haven’t had to do it myself, but there should be an opening in the body of the pot to spritz—sparingly—the inside.

- The port hole tubes are in great shape, but disconnected. Is there a preferred method/adhesive to use on these to reconnect them? What gains are there to reinstalling the port tubes?
I used a few small pieces of Gorilla Tape (like heavy-duty duct tape) to attach the tubes to the flares, and they’re not going anywhere. The speaker sits in a very small box, so if you use them, and you’ll get the bass response that the designers intended.

- Is there a recommended caster upgrade? I am thinking it might benefit from some bigger, softer wheels but do not know if they can be bought as drop ins for the current holes
I got the following casters at Amazon: Amazon.com

They’re two inches, they work fine, and they’re inexpensive. They’re just like the casters that Ampeg used to sell for the amp. However, the amp rolls around in the back of the vehicle unless I pack it in tightly with the other equipment, so I’m thinking of replacing two of them with locking versions.

Dude, thank you!!

 

[rayzak]

Absolutely LOVE this amp. Have had it for over 20 years. Actually gave it to my Son a few years ago, and missed it.... so I bought him a 150 watt Hartke with more options. He's happy with it, but misses the Ampeg. Too bad, Sonny Boy!! LOL
As far a scratchy pots, I've just popped off the knobs, sprayed some DeOxit the best I could and screwed with the knobs. It's worked for me so far.
Also, I only get the "pop" when I turn it off..... I think.

 

[bthiemann80]

Good score! I prefer my B-100R to my new RB-112, which has a different—but good—sound quality. I’ve been taking the B-100R to more bar gigs lately, and it holds its own in a five-piece group. Same wattage for both amps, but the 15” driver pushes more air. If the other guys in the group can’t hear me, then they’ll have to turn down, though it hasn’t been necessary yet.

See my red note in the attached file for serial number dating.

- My power light does not come on, is it worth getting fixed? It currently does not do the popping thing when being turned on, I read on here that some folks experienced popping, then the light went out, now it does not pop. So this might be a good thing?
A fellow in one of these B-100R threads replaced the bulb with an LED, I think, but he had some difficulty removing the old one and sourcing a replacement, IIRC. Aside from the aesthetics and lack of pop during power-off, I don’t know whether it was worth the trouble. The pop doesn’t bother me.

- The gain potentiometer is scratchy. I have some deoxyit. What would be the best way to get in there to spray/clean the gain potentiometer?
If you can’t clear up the scratchiness by rotating the knob, you’ll need to remove the amp head and get at the pot from behind. I haven’t had to do it myself, but there should be an opening in the body of the pot to spritz—sparingly—the inside.

- The port hole tubes are in great shape, but disconnected. Is there a preferred method/adhesive to use on these to reconnect them? What gains are there to reinstalling the port tubes?
I used a few small pieces of Gorilla Tape (like heavy-duty duct tape) to attach the tubes to the flares, and they’re not going anywhere. The speaker sits in a very small box, so if you use them, and you’ll get the bass response that the designers intended.

- Is there a recommended caster upgrade? I am thinking it might benefit from some bigger, softer wheels but do not know if they can be bought as drop ins for the current holes
I got the following casters at Amazon: Amazon.com

They’re two inches, they work fine, and they’re inexpensive. They’re just like the casters that Ampeg used to sell for the amp. However, the amp rolls around in the back of the vehicle unless I pack it in tightly with the other equipment, so I’m thinking of replacing two of them with locking versions.

Yo @Michael Eisenman, I was able to get a pic of my serial number and am confused.

Here's the serial number from my B100R:

It says made in USA on the chrome chassis on the top of the unit, the other sticker next to the serial number says SLM, inside the components says SLM. I'm pretty sure it's US made, but I wonder what to make of the X in the spot that indicates country? From your document and the Ampeg website section that deals with serial dating (both seem to be the same), one would expect to see a Y for Europe, U for UK, W for world wide or D for domestic.