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Any Squier Bronco fans / haters out there?

#81
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Richie Se7en said:
I appreciate the info, sir. Those #'s are actually pretty close to the SS Jag - at least, closer than I thought. The problem now is how far I'll need to move the bridge to make this feasible. Thanks again for the help. :thumbsup:
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That's easy. Depending upon which scale your bass is, measure from the nut starting on the fingerboard side on your 1st or g string along the fingerboard to 7/8" past the scale length ie: for 30" scale it would be 30 7/8" at that point is wear your screw hole on a fender type bridge would be. Make sure the final placement of the bridge allows for intonation travel of the saddle. Especially important for 1st and 4th string adjustment. If the bridge is too close to the nut you may runout of adjustment length for your bass or 4th string and if placed too far back (or away from nut) you can run out of screw or adjustment length for your treble or 1st String.
I'm a total believer in the "less is more" when it comes to bridge plates size and weight on a fender. I personally like a resonant body to vibrate through all aspects of my instrument. So I tend to stick with the more original design of the "Vintage Fender style Bridge plate". I got a Wilkinson with brass saddles. $20 EBay. I put this on my Bronco.
 
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#82
EatS1stBassist said:
View attachment 863120
That's easy. Depending upon which scale your bass is, measure from the nut starting on the fingerboard side on your 1st or g string along the fingerboard to 7/8" past the scale length ie: for 30" scale it would be 30 7/8" at that point is wear your screw hole on a fender type bridge would be. Make sure the final placement of the bridge allows for intonation travel of the saddle. Especially important for 1st and 4th string adjustment. If the bridge is too close to the nut you may runout of adjustment length for your bass or 4th string and if placed too far back (or away from nut) you can run out of screw or adjustment length for your treble or 1st String.
Click to expand...

The Jaguar is definitely 30" scale. It measures exactly 15" from nut to 12th fret - but the length from the nut to the screw holes is at 31 1/8th" on the G side (and remains the same down to E). From the 12th fret, a measurement to 15" comes awfully close to the front of the bridge plate, leaving very little space for forward saddle adjustment. With the CNC manufacturing process being used these days, I can't imagine this being a flaw isolated to this particular bass.

I haven't tried a full setup and intonation yet because - 1. It arrived out of the box sounding and playing really well. 2. I have a bunch of mods intended... P/J set of EMG Geezers, Gotoh 201 bridge, slab of Black Pearloid to make a new pickguard - and hopefully, a neck with maple fingerboard I can mold into the pocket. At this point, I'm about ready to keep the stock neck and add block inlay.

Thanks again, EatS1st... I'm grateful for your taking the time to help.:)
 
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#84
Richie Se7en said:
The Jaguar is definitely 30" scale. It measures exactly 15" from nut to 12th fret - but the length from the nut to the screw holes is at 31 1/8th" on the G side (and remains the same down to E). From the 12th fret, a measurement to 15" comes awfully close to the front of the bridge plate, leaving very little space for forward saddle adjustment. With the CNC manufacturing process being used these days, I can't imagine this being a flaw isolated to this particular bass.

I haven't tried a full setup and intonation yet because - 1. It arrived out of the box sounding and playing really well. 2. I have a bunch of mods intended... P/J set of EMG Geezers, Gotoh 201 bridge, slab of Black Pearloid to make a new pickguard - and hopefully, a neck with maple fingerboard I can mold into the pocket. At this point, I'm about ready to keep the stock neck and add block inlay.

Thanks again, EatS1st... I'm grateful for your taking the time to help.:)
Click to expand...
You bet anytime!:thumbsup:
 
#85
Richie Se7en said:
The Jaguar is definitely 30" scale. It measures exactly 15" from nut to 12th fret - but the length from the nut to the screw holes is at 31 1/8th" on the G side (and remains the same down to E). From the 12th fret, a measurement to 15" comes awfully close to the front of the bridge plate, leaving very little space for forward saddle adjustment. With the CNC manufacturing process being used these days, I can't imagine this being a flaw isolated to this particular bass.

I haven't tried a full setup and intonation yet because - 1. It arrived out of the box sounding and playing really well. 2. I have a bunch of mods intended... P/J set of EMG Geezers, Gotoh 201 bridge, slab of Black Pearloid to make a new pickguard - and hopefully, a neck with maple fingerboard I can mold into the pocket. At this point, I'm about ready to keep the stock neck and add block inlay.

Thanks again, EatS1st... I'm grateful for your taking the time to help.:)
Click to expand...
Good luck having some fun on those mods. R7
 
#87
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Richie Se7en said:
Thank you, my good man - It'll be a blast and I can't wait to get started! Also, after seeing your beautiful piece, I'm thinking maybe down the road of adding a Bronco to my "stable"... sorry, I'm a sucker for a bad pun opportunity ;)
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LoL! :laugh: R7/&P...I cant say enough about the Dragonfire Duo Rail I put in the Bronco. Wow! Incredible! $20 eBay TnT guitars (AKA Guitarpartsonline) Fits perfect no mods. Wonderful sound!! When you get your Bronco try one of these. I usually buy pickups in the $75-$300
Range and these are a fantastic deal. My bass is very quiet now from the Duo Rail Humbucker. It will blow you away. Also, concerning the tuning machines, the stock holes are 7/16"
The USA made Hipshots I used were 9/16" and the 11/16" (Full Size will not fit). So if you have a Dremel it's quite easy to enlarge the holes. If you need any help just post me off one of these conversations. :thumbsup:
 
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#88
I have a Schaller roller bridge on my Bronc. The other day I bought some appropriate slot-head bolts and drilled through the body so the bridge is "clamped" to the body.
The bolts run through the bridge holes. They do not interfere with saddle travel etc. because they are bevel-head and sit right in the old bolt bevels perfectly.

I did this after testing a lot with clamps to see if it changed the tone or "bottom end". It does. To the better for me.

I am never selling this bass. It may be further "modded" in future with pups to a P/J config. I may take the washers off and "fancify" it with a custom piece of metal.

I don't know how many other people have clamped a bridge on any bass using this method but it worked for me in this one.

Once you drill through it's a done deal....so think carefully if you want to do it.

IMG_0146.JPG
 
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#89
ZenG said:
I have a Schaller roller bridge on my Bronc. The other day I bought some appropriate slot-head bolts and drilled through the body so the bridge is "clamped" to the body.
The bolts run through the bridge holes. They do not interfere with saddle travel etc. because they are bevel-head and sit right in the old bolt bevels perfectly.

I did this after testing a lot with clamps to see if it changed the tone or "bottom end". It does. To the better for me.

I am never selling this bass. It may be further "modded" in future with pups to a P/J config. I may take the washers off and "fancify" it with a custom piece of metal.

I don't know how many other people have clamped a bridge on any bass using this method but it worked for me in this one.

Once you drill through it's a done deal....so think carefully if you want to do it.

View attachment 869983
Click to expand...
That's actually BadA$$! Good job!:thumbsup:
 
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#91
EatS1stBassist said:
What size bolts? Length/diameter? Thanks. Cool Mod!!
Click to expand...

If I'm not mistaken they were 8-32 x 2 inch stainless. I said slot-heads but they are actually Phillips.

On the left is the original screw. I had to file down the new bolts flush to the nuts (so no rough edges) when installed a tad with a dremel grinder and file.

Got them at my marine chandlers.

The washers are called Fender washers (:woot:).....(except for the one in the middle)...quite commonly available.

Used a much smaller washer over top of them because the Fender washers don't come in a great variety of hole sizes...(think they are 1/4 inch hole).

IMG_0147.JPG
 
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#92
ZenG said:
If I'm not mistaken they were 8-32 x 2 inch stainless. I said slot-heads but they are actually Phillips.

On the left is the original screw. I had to file down the new bolts flush to the nuts (so no rough edges) when installed a tad with a dremel grinder and file.

Got them at my marine chandlers.

The washers are called Fender washers :)woot:).....(except for the one in the middle)...quite commonly available.

Used a much smaller washer over top of them because the Fender washers don't come in a great variety of hole sizes...(think they are 1/4 inch hole).

View attachment 870017
Click to expand...
Thanks I know they sell fender washer gaskets made of rubber or? Whatever it's made of? Thanks again!
 
#94
If I was forced to buy a Fender I would probably chose a Mustang or a Squier Jaguar shortie over the Bronco.

As said the Bronco has a two piece saddle designed bridge, which might give some serious intonation issues unless replaced, and a pretty chunky neck which I personally dislike.

When that is said the guy who replaced me on bass after I quiet my old band Menfolk, in which we were 2 bass players, rocked a Bronco pretty hard.

I guess it is an ok bass, just that in my opinion there are better options, even if you are limited to Fenders.

Have you considered an Ibanez Talman short scale perhaps?

It gets a lot of love around here, and should be an amazing bass at a low price tag.

project_c said:
Looks cool, can you explain how it has affected the tone?



Thanks, do you think with a pickup upgrade and a bridge swap you could make this bass workable? I'm asking because a 70s Mustang costs around £1000 (around $1500 USD), whereas the bronco costs around a tenth of that, around £100 - the difference in price is huge.
Click to expand...

From what I read, the Mustang apparently, according to some people around here, has disappointingly weak bland pickups, although it plays nice and is well made.

So you would probably want to swap the pickups either way.
 
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#95
IMG_0162.JPG IMG_0165.JPG IMG_0167.JPG IMG_0168.JPG Got one real cheap, figured it would be a fun bass mod. So, not wanting to put a bunch of $$$ into it, I gathered up some stuff collecting dust in my parts drawer. Came up with a schaller roller Bridge, some new CTS pots, mini switches, and some pink chicken head knobs.

I wanted to change the pick guard but, didn't want to spend too much. So, I covered it with shelf paper! Got a big roll for $9. It stays put but, will peel right off without residue.

Bought 2 GFS Rail pickups, going to be wired with on/off switch for each, V,T. May do some splitting in the future.

The neck was a little wonky and all the fret ends were not seated. So, ripped them out! Re radiused the neck, and re fretted with Fender standard wire I had.

Will probably finish it up today. Funny thing, I have one of the new PJ Mustangs but, prefer the bronco neck shape.

Here are some PICS of the progress.
 
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