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AudioKinesis Cabs Part VI...

#7,183
Kirk Bryant said:
Oh my, the hits just keep on coming. Love the coin slot. Duke how about a brief rundown on how the UFH or upward firing horn compares and differs from the open chambers. How low/high does it go?
Click to expand...

The up-firing horn's location is not as ideal as that of the up-facing slots on the Hathor chambers. The horn is going to be mostly if not entirely obscured by the amp. So, I made the horn on this cab louder than what comes out of the slots on the Hathors, and (since it's a separate driver with its own separate filter section in the crossover), I made its response deliberatly rising as we go up in frequency. This is to compensate for the fact that the shorter the wavelength (the higher the frequency), the more difficult for the sound waves to wrap around the amp.

On-axis, either axis, both horns are good to about 18 kHz.

If there is no amp on top, imo the rising response still makes sense, but you'll want to dial down its volume level using the knob on the back. The front-firing drivers will sound like they have a rolled-off top end when you are standing next to the cab, so I think the rising top end of the upfiring horn is still a good synergy.

wagdog said:
So how durable is that up firing horn when the inevitable happens?
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Unfortunately I do not think the compression driver in the up-firing horn would survive. Unless the little quasi-Nerf football is in place. I'll have to find a supplier and make sure I send a spare when I ship the cabs. Ah, that would be a spare football, NOT a spare compression driver!

If the compression driver dies a frothy death, it can be replaced. And it costs enough that next time you'll probably either remember the football or risk your life defending the castle against the barbarians.

Actually duct tape would probably work too, down in the throat of the horn, maybe in a "+" shape to make sure there are no leaks.

Edit: Make that gaffer's tape or possibly painter's tape.
 
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#7,185
DukeLeJeune said:
The up-firing horn's location is not as ideal as that of the up-facing slots on the Hathor chambers. The horn is going to be mostly if not entirely obscured by the amp. So, I made the horn on this cab louder than what comes out of the slots on the Hathors, and (since it's a separate driver with its own separate filter section in the crossover), I made its response deliberatly rising as we go up in frequency. This is to compensate for the fact that the shorter the wavelength (the higher the frequency), the more difficult for the sound waves to wrap around the amp.

On-axis, either axis, both horns are good to about 18 kHz.

If there is no amp on top, imo the rising response still makes sense, but you'll want to dial down its volume level using the knob on the back. The front-firing drivers will sound like they have a rolled-off top end when you are standing next to the cab, so I think the rising top end of the upfiring horn is still a good synergy.



Unfortunately I do not think the compression driver in the up-firing horn would survive. Unless the little quasi-Nerf football is in place. I'll have to find a supplier and make sure I send a spare when I ship the cabs. Ah, that would be a spare football, NOT a spare compression driver!

If the compression driver dies a frothy death, it can be replaced. And it costs enough that next time you'll probably either remember the football or risk your life defending the castle against the barbarians.

Actually duct tape would probably work too, down in the throat of the horn, maybe in a "+" shape to make sure there are no leaks.
Click to expand...
Ah, you need to invent a breathable, waterproof membrane.
 
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#7,189
mexicanyella said:
The up-firing horn seems like a good application for gaffer tape between sets...minimal sticky glue spooge to clean up when it's time to play.

I guess you could use painter's tape too, but that stuff is pretty flimsy.
Click to expand...

Good call - I didn't think that one through. Thanks!!
 
#7,191
mexicanyella said:
I didn't mean to imply a lack of forethought on your part, Duke...I meant the tape could be useful in place of the foam football horn plug...like, if it got lost, or a foam-eating creature like the one in my avatar got hold of it.
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I took it that gaffers's tape made a very good Plan B, with painter's tape as Plan C - and I definitely agree that both are better than duct tape from the sticky residue standpoint.

Just for the record, since I have not yet attained infallibility, I suppose the possibility does exist, however remote it might be, that I might not have thought everything through on the first try... oh wait, I'm still updating my products at random intervals... nevermind!!
 
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#7,197
staccatogrowl said:
Protecting cabinet's upfiring horn from liquid?

1) Just make sure your liquid-proof amplifier (designed to function before, during, and after inevitable carb/sugar/alcohol drenches) covers the cabinet's top, protecting the horn. a) Tilt the amp lower to amp cooling fan intake side. This will allow liquid into your amp to aid it's cooling, while allowing dispersion of steam and vapor from the amp's fan exhaust. b) The upward tilt should face the drummer, allowing a spa experience every gig that spills occur.

2) Otherwise, don't place liquids on your non-liquid-proof amp. If you must, place a disposable, high-absorption adult diaper as a top liner.

Don't like the design? Buy and use something else, maybe? Regardless, am interested in hearing about NAMM comments regarding the new cabinet design with different amps, in that noisy environment.
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I love it!:smug:
 
#7,198
soitainly said:
What is the lead time on these cabinets, just generally.
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Right now, I'd estimate ballpark twelve weeks. So probably not as bad as having a custom bass built, but soitainly a LOT longer than I'd like.
 
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#7,200
staccatogrowl said:
Protecting cabinet's upfiring horn from liquid?

1) Just make sure your liquid-proof amplifier (designed to function before, during, and after inevitable carb/sugar/alcohol drenches) covers the cabinet's top, protecting the horn. a) Tilt the amp lower to amp cooling fan intake side. This will allow liquid into your amp to aid it's cooling, while allowing dispersion of steam and vapor from the amp's fan exhaust. b) The upward tilt should face the drummer, allowing a spa experience every gig that spills occur.

2) Otherwise, don't place liquids on your non-liquid-proof amp. If you must, place a disposable, high-absorption adult diaper as a top liner.

Don't like the design? Buy and use something else, maybe? Regardless, am interested in hearing about NAMM comments regarding the new cabinet design with different amps, in that noisy environment.
Click to expand...
We'll this went sideways in a hurry!
:roflmao:
 
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