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Bag End Club.

#801
Nice! Did you toss the shavings? If not you can use those to patch the bald spots a bit. If you tossed them, you could dig some off the back. A thin coat of white glue and sprinkle on some shavings. That or maybe Bag End will send you a strip of scrap so you can do a proper patch.

Then again, if it doesn't bother you, it doesn't bother me. I don't care what anyone else thinks. :laugh:
 
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#807
moogieotter said:
That AI Clarus looks quite sexual.
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Careful now... you never know when she's around. :smug:

Amp_Jeannie.jpg


It really is a sweet little Class D amp. I have an Acoustic Image Contra too (the little combo with down-firing speaker) but my Pops has it right now.
 
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#809
iriegnome said:
Has anyone converted their old jack plate to a newer neutrik version? Bag End wants $72 for the plate. That sounds a bit pricey though
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I'd very much like to put one on my S15-D... the S10-D already has a SpeakOn and 1/4" parallels, as well as banana plug sockets.
 
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#811
These are best for sheet metal, although titanium coated is not technically good for aluminum, it's good enough:

image_11970.jpg


Stop at 5/8" (IIRC, check that). A smaller size is better, as long as it reaches 5/8" There are large ones that go to 5/8" on the 2nd or 3rd step. You want more steps, or start with a regular 1/8" bit. If you drill it without removing the plate, be sure and get some cheap labor to hold a shop vac under to catch the shavings that drop through. I don't recommend regular drill bits unless you take out the plate, clamp it with scrap under it, and use a drill press. They tend to grab and pull the bit in. making a messy hole in the metal and your cheap labors hand.
 
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#816
iriegnome said:
Is the plate just a jack plate? Just drill a hole and your good? That is even better!!
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The jack plates with oem speakons have a circuit board while the jack plates without the oem speakons just have soldered leads. They are easy to add a speakon to with drilling holes and just adding some short leads to the existing leads solder joints.:thumbsup:
 
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#818
EdwardofHuncote said:
Just bought my second Bag End cabinet yesterday... didn't know there was a Club established here at TalkBass, but glad to see there is. :)

My first was this S 10-D... I use it with an Acoustic Image Clarus II, mainly for lower volume acoustic gigs, or sometimes portable practice. Great little upright monitor rig too.

View attachment 2985866

It's just fantastic... that little box is surprisingly responsive. :thumbsup:

So, like I was saying, I bought a second-hand S 15-D yesterday... it's rough as a cobb, been ridden hard, but appears to have had a brand-new speaker installed. I was initially concerned about that, but it's the right one, straight from Bag End for certain. The box itself is solid... only some bumps and bruises. All the corners are there, but worn. One of the banana plug sockets is broken out, which I don't really care about. The worst of it is the carpet... if that's red rat fur, that particular red rat had mange. :laugh:

View attachment 2986017

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I spent a little time cleaning, trimming, and glueing yesterday afternoon, then got on to the fun part... WOW. This little rig sounds awesome! It's still a small footprint, which is somewhat important to me. I'm most impressed with how stupid loud it can get and still stay clean.

View attachment 2986021

View attachment 2986022

I'm not good at remembering numbers, but I'll take one if you got 'em. :smug:

For sure I'll be hanging around here for a while... looks like I have some reading to do before I start pestering you folks with questions.

~Ed of H
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I'm a bit anal about some things & I was going to suggest that when you stack the two cabs that you line up the front edges of both cabs for better projection out into the room, but then I thought about it a bit more & here's my other thoughts: if you stand really close to the two cabs (like on a tight/small stage), having the top cab scooted back (possibly as far back as lining up the back edges) might splash some of the mids from the top cab up towards your ears (suggest you experiment a bit with top cab placement); on the other hand if you normally stand 8 ft or more in front of your cabs, lining up the front edge of the cabs should give a bit better projection out front (& into the room, especially if you are not running through a PA for FOH).
 
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