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Behringer Bass V-AMP Pro

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#801
KingRazor said:
I was actually using S3, so no amp model was active. Perhaps switching to S1 and selecting the right amp model might help.
Click to expand...

I believe you may be confusing cabinet model with amp model.

Despite whatever operating mode you are running on (e.g. S3, S1, L3) your amp model is the selection on the AMPS knob that will come through, regardless.

If you are using an actual bass amp/speaker then you should use L3 operating mode as I suggest in my guide for best results. L3 removes cabinet modeling from the signal chain as one would want when you are using a real bass cabinet/speaker.
 
#802
CharlieC said:
I believe you may be confusing cabinet model with amp model.

Despite whatever operating mode you are running on (e.g. S3, S1, L3) your amp model is the selection on the AMPS knob that will come through, regardless.

If you are using an actual bass amp/speaker then you should use L3 operating mode as I suggest in my guide for best results. L3 removes cabinet modeling from the signal chain as one would want when you are using a real bass cabinet/speaker.
Click to expand...

Ah, ok. I hadn't made the distinction before.

I have it set to S3 because I don't have it hooked up to any speakers, just a set of headphones.

So I have cabinet modeling off, but not amp modeling. Good to know.
 
#804
KingRazor said:
Trying the "Rock 2" setting. So far it sounds the cleanest, but unless I run the gain very low, there's a constant hiss sound.
Click to expand...

The "Rock 2" is a very EQ-scooped, hot model with much headroom. Very low "hiss" on mine. The hiss may be from your bass' electronics, or MASTER below 12-noon. Be sure to use the VOLUME knob in conjunction with your amp's volume to get the most signal-to-noise. (See previous post.)

In general, any type of hiss that you may hear in your headphones will most likely not get past a real bass speaker (8"-18"). Tweeters will only expose it.
 
#805
CharlieC said:
The "Rock 2" is a very EQ-scooped, hot model with much headroom. Very low "hiss" on mine. The hiss may be from your bass' electronics, or MASTER below 12-noon. Be sure to use the VOLUME knob in conjunction with your amp's volume to get the most signal-to-noise. (See previous post.)

In general, any type of hiss that you may hear in your headphones will most likely not get past a real bass speaker (8"-18"). Tweeters will only expose it.
Click to expand...
I turned the Master input gain way down to cover up the hiss.

The electronics in my bass are not shielded, so that may be contributing to the hiss.
 
#806
Ok, so now I'm trying with master input gain set to max and the channel volume set to 10 o' clock. No clipping and the hiss isn't intolerable but definitely still there.

EDIT: Also, the noise is still present even when I turn the volume all the way down on my bass.
 
#808
TheSuzie said:
Just for grins, turn off all the other electronics in the room, including monitors, computers, wireless phones, amps etc and see if things clean up.

Peace,
S
Click to expand...

That's easier said than done, there's a LOT of electronics in here.

EDIT: Moved the V-AMP into my room, where the only piece of electronic equipment that is even plugged in is my alarm clock. Just as much hiss. :hmm:
 
#811
KingRazor said:
Through the headphones. The V-AMP isn't connected to my bass amp.
Click to expand...

With that said, you should be running under operating mode S1 for best results (and not L3 as I suggest for an actual bass amp/speakers.)

Keep in mind that headphones are typically full-range, meaning that high-frequencies (including any type of hiss) will be most noticeable there as opposed to through a standard bass speaker that has significant HF roll-off.

Additionally, headphone amplifier circuitry in non-audiophile equipment is usually noisy/hissy due to the grade of components used there. The balanced + unbalanced outs get the better circuitry and treatment as opposed to a headphone jack used for private practice.

Again, back to levels. Settings that maximize the possible signal-to-noise ratio are key to getting best results.

Finally, the level of shielding on the bass, pickup/wiring quality, active circuity quality, etc. all contribute to the final result.

Good luck!
 
#813
kurotenshi said:
The cleanest amp model, as in the one that changes less the original sound of your bass, is the gold panel.
Click to expand...

kurotenshi, our V-AMP brother from Portugal, has actually plotted amp model response graphs for all V-AMP models that he said will soon be sent to me. In turn, I will share these with you, but I will give him full credit of course. Hail, brother kurotenshi! :bassist:

Cheers!
 
#814
I pretty much only use my BVpro as a pre-amp now. I wish there was some way of lopping off half the box to just have the pre-amp and DI stuff. I have no need for the distortion. Sometimes I use some flanger. The compression and denoiser are off. Seems a waste of a big box.
 
#815
caeman said:
I pretty much only use my BVpro as a pre-amp now. I wish there was some way of lopping off half the box to just have the pre-amp and DI stuff. I have no need for the distortion. Sometimes I use some flanger. The compression and denoiser are off. Seems a waste of a big box.
Click to expand...

+1

I use an amp model, maybe a bit of compression, and done!

But there are a lot of people who like and use those other effects, just not me.

It's really only a waste of a big box if it retails for $699 USD.

... and for those of you who know what other product I am referring to, please note that product is three rack spaces-high, one space taller than the Bass V-AMP's two rack spaces :-)

All kidding aside, that unit does sound better than the Bass V-AMP, but not $500 better.

Cheers!
 
#818
Actually, if I change my bass setup, it is to find a much tinier preamp pedal with EQ and XLR, something that will fit IN my bass case. I have no interest in another all-in-one processor.
 
#819
caeman said:
Actually, if I change my bass setup, it is to find a much tinier preamp pedal with EQ and XLR, something that will fit IN my bass case. I have no interest in another all-in-one processor.
Click to expand...

In that case, since you already have the external flanger, just string an external tuner to this little bad boy!

Invalid Link Removed

Please know however, that once you've been V-AMP'd, you must always return to the V-AMP just like I do!

It never ends...
 
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