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Best instrument cable for bass?

STOP!!
english is not my first language but I am trying at my best.

I want to say that when plugged with Planet Waves the sound is deeper and crispier, opposite to other two cables.

i_got_a_mohawk if you know what I want to say pleas write it down with your words, maybe you are better at phisics than I an you can use phisical language.
 
I use a Monster Keyboard cable. The cable itself is thicker and I like the look of the black chrome ends. I figure if there is anything to the hype about cables, a cable made for keyboards should work pretty well since keyboards have such a wide range of frequencies. I've only had one cable problem over the years and GC just handed me a new one when I took it in.
 
hmm, for those who roll their own cables, anyone care to share where you guys get your neutrik plugs from? There's a variety of sources.. and I can't decide!

Also looking into G&H plugs.. any idea how those compare to neutriks?

Sorry to hijack the thread!
 
I had never really cared for Cables as much as the time I noticed the futton that was removed off my amp after changing no-name patch cables on my pedalboard for Hosa's. Ever since I've became almost obsessive with my tone.
I now use a custom Mogami+Switchcraft cable I got from Nice Rack NYC (Bass > Pedalboard) and a Fulltone (Pedalboard > D.I./AMP) because they contrast and complement each other. On smaller venues I use a Lava Cable Clear connect from bass to pedalboard. Lava's are really "neutral" and the most, well, CLEAR after my Mogami/Switchcraft.
Clips? Sure! YouTube - ‪Ella Quiere Conmigo - 11:11 (Video Oficial) HD‬‏ :bassist:
 
I'm another one who "rolls my own cables". I've been using mogami cables and neutrik ends, but my next cable will be with canare to see if there is a difference. I usually order all my stuff from redco.com, but i've been looking elsewhere. I'll never buy another cable again.

I recently made my "red cable" which was a 12 ft mogami with a neutrik silent end and red sleeving/black heatshrink, and I believe it was under 25 bucks. The sleeving and heatshrink are pretty cheap and they really make the cable look great. I also made one of my friends a heavy duty speaker cable for pretty cheap.
 
I would like to make my own cable and I know how to solder well enough to make cables for harnesses for engines at work but some music cables are advertised as oxygen free wire. How is it oxygen free? Is it oxygen free between the wire and the insulator or just inside the copper when it is rolled out when it is produced? I get that oxygen probably allows for oxidation and that causes more resistence, but how do they make the connections with out getting oxygen in the wire? If so, how could I solder ends and keep the high quality of the cable in place if oxygen is allowed in when producing the connection?
 
I use a Monster Keyboard cable. The cable itself is thicker and I like the look of the black chrome ends. I figure if there is anything to the hype about cables, a cable made for keyboards should work pretty well since keyboards have such a wide range of frequencies. I've only had one cable problem over the years and GC just handed me a new one when I took it in.

I also used to use a Monster "instrument" cable, not the bass cable, which is too dark sounding.

It was very natural sounding, and lasted me—30 years—of use before it started to get noisy. If I had realized that I could have just taken it back to GC for a new one I would have.

Instead I bought two other high quality cables; both of which I had to repair a few months later.

So people like to bad mouth Monster, but they last forever.
 
I would like to make my own cable and I know how to solder well enough to make cables for harnesses for engines at work but some music cables are advertised as oxygen free wire. How is it oxygen free? Is it oxygen free between the wire and the insulator or just inside the copper when it is rolled out when it is produced? I get that oxygen probably allows for oxidation and that causes more resistence, but how do they make the connections with out getting oxygen in the wire? If so, how could I solder ends and keep the high quality of the cable in place if oxygen is allowed in when producing the connection?

To my knowledge OFC is just marketing.
 
For a passive setup nothing beats Bill Lawrence cables IMO, Eric Johnson uses the same kit he got in the 70s. In an active setup the properties that affect tone become largely diminished, focus can be shifted to flexibility, shielding, ruggedness...
 
Mogami gets high marks here, but when I looked them up the price seems a bit off. At least shipping is free!



Amazon.com: Mogami Silver Series 1/4" Straight Instrument Cable (25 Foot): Musical Instruments

Mogami Silver Series 1/4" Straight Instrument Cable (25 Foot)
by Mogami
Be the first to review this item | Like (0)
Price: $264.95 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping. Details

In Stock.
Ships from and sold by Amazon.com. Gift-wrap available.
Only 2 left in stock--order soon (more on the way).
 
As an Amazon Associate, TalkBass may receive commissions from qualifying purchases made via links on this site.
Mogami gets high marks here, but when I looked them up the price seems a bit off. At least shipping is free!

Amazon.com: Mogami Silver Series 1/4" Straight Instrument Cable (25 Foot): Musical Instruments

Mogami Silver Series 1/4" Straight Instrument Cable (25 Foot)
by Mogami
Be the first to review this item | Like (0)
Price: $264.95 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping. Details

In Stock.
Ships from and sold by Amazon.com. Gift-wrap available.
Only 2 left in stock--order soon (more on the way).

That's wrong.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Sale Price: $29.99
MSRP: $54.95
 
As an Amazon Associate, TalkBass may receive commissions from qualifying purchases made via links on this site.
To my knowledge OFC is just marketing.

My opinion too.

Other day, I posted this in misc. forum:
Speaking of marketing, anyone saw this signature cable?
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

"Original Xotic Cable (XGC-1) was developed with three strict requirements: sound should not be thin, sound should cut through and it should have minimal noise. We utilized spirally structure copper wire shielded with conductive vinyl and wrapped with an flexible outer coating. The result; an easy to handle cable providing superior sound with minimal noise. We used the gold standard of plugs, Switchcraft. Since most high-end guitars use Switchcraft jacks, matching the brand of plugs with jacks minimizes any electrical connection issues."
:eek: :eek: :eek:
 
There is little to no sonic difference in most cables. However, it has been proven time and again that [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] cables actually do make a difference, and sound great. They also carry a warranty as good or better than Monster's. They are spendy, though...
 
I roll my own. Just prefer to do it that way. I can make whatever custom length I need for Instrument Cables, Patch Cords and Speaker Cords. I can get Canare GS-6 for $.90\ft in choice of colors from Markertek.com. There is probably someplace cheaper, don't know. The Neutrik 1\4" plugs will run you $2.50 to $4.50 ea. depending on what you want. But I prefer the G&H from Parts-Express.com. Those will run from $3.59 to $4.95 with the "Quiet plug" costing $5.85. I like to have the control over wire gauges, especially to speakers, shielding, but also style and brand of connectors. Can make the lengths down to inches that I need, that way I don't have the unnecessary cable mess in racks or behind speakers, etc. I even make my own Power Cords for the same reasons.
 
Surprised livewire hasn't gotten more love.... I've had the same 2 (one 10' one 30') for 2 years and neither have failed or crackled yet. Yes the 30' does get tangled, but it takes all of 30 seconds to get it untangled. And best of all, the cables are CHEAP and have a LIFETIME UNCONDITIONAL WARRANTY.

I use an active bass though, so I probably wont notice any difference between cable lengths/ materials compared to a passive one.