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Body Build for the P-Yama

lark_z

Supporting Member
Feb 26, 2020
1,759
3,100
Overland Park, KS
Never been that pleased with my body I built a few years back for the neck from my old Yamaha RBX, I wanted a more classic P shape, but the 24 fret neck presented a challenge. At the time, I dealt with it by making the upper cutaway deeper, leaving the horn intact to help with neck dive. While it hangs like a dream, I just don't like the look. This time, I will leave the cutaways like a standard P, but just move the neck pocket into the body as needed.

I want to do a LIGHT relic in black.

I'm (again) using construction lumber leftovers, pine/fir. Ton of it laying around. My other two bodies are the same. The one with the 4 inline headstock is a bit neck-divey, likely due to the lightweight body.

Here's the old body.

Here's the obligatory wood and clamp up pictures.
 

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I forgot to add....

The other two body builds, I had access to a full woodshop with planers et al. This time, it's just my shop. Chop saw, tabletop bandsaw, hand planes, power hand tools. No router, no planer.

Did a LOT of hand planing on the glueing faces before gluing. Took it slow, not too bad. Little or no sawdust floating around, which is nice. I likely have some belt sander work on the blank, once it gets above 40 here in the MIdwest.
 
I forgot to add....

The other two body builds, I had access to a full woodshop with planers et al. This time, it's just my shop. Chop saw, tabletop bandsaw, hand planes, power hand tools. No router, no planer.

Did a LOT of hand planing on the glueing faces before gluing. Took it slow, not too bad. Little or no sawdust floating around, which is nice. I likely have some belt sander work on the blank, once it gets above 40 here in the MIdwest.
Lucky, I did my first body with a coping saw, rasp, hand plane and sanding blocks. Luckily my dad had a router for the pickup and control cavities or I would have had some chiseling to do.
 
This is one of the three things I love about using hand planes. The other two being: 1) they’re beautiful industrial art that’s still functional after 100+ years and 2) they’re quiet.
Yes, I bought three hand planes last year. A #5 transitional (~100 years old), which I'm using for scrub work. A #5 Victor (~1950s?) which is a joy to use. And a #4 Stanley for smoothing. I love it, I can go down into the shop and work while someone is sleeping.
 
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Hmm. Well I guess the flatter side will be the front. I'll do more planing on the back side, but I'm not shooting for perfection. It's worse nearer the edges and a lot of that will end up as scrap.
 

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Decisions, decisions. I want a single volume knob without tone (I'll solder up a wide-open tone resistor/cap to bury in it). So, it's some style of two hole control plate (input and vol) that I need. BTW - also no pickguard.

'51 Tele bass plate looks interesting... Amazon.com

This "Strat style" input with one pot hole in black looks perfect... Amazon.com

And this - would just need to paint it black. MGB Control Plate Birch
 
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Started hogging out the neck pocket with forstner bit. Still not sure what to do with the extra wood past the end of the heel. If I level all that, then they'll be a barely noticeable gap on the E side. Or I could coat the back of that part of the neck with wax and fill it with wood filler and clamp the neck in to form a slope. We'll see.
 

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Lots of frustration with the cavity chiseling. And the chisels are scary sharp. The soft pine isn't helping. And the stop slipped on the drill press and one of the forstner holes for the pickup cavity is too deep. Sigh. That's why they make wood filler, I suppose. I ordered a manual router plane to see if it helps. Yeah, I could have just driven to HF and bought a real router for the same $$. I guess I'm committed to doing it manually.

Moved on to other things to get back into the spirit. Control plate wired up. I left the 0.0047 loading capacitor that's been in it for a few years. The ceramic cheapo pickup was a bit 'harsh' before that. I also wired up a 'dummy' tone control and soldered it in. I used 200 k resistor instead of 250 k to also tame the beast a little bit. I do really like the Talman style control. My old black spray painted chrome volume knob with a tad of the paint worn off is just the look I want.

Bridge ground and pickup wiring channels drilled successfully. Yeah!
 

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