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Turnaround
Commercial User
FWIW, I think there is far more value in getting a stock nut fine tuned, regardless of its material, than changing to brass or bone or synthetic.
Just a note on the aluminum topnuts. The Peavey, and I believe the Danelectro, topnuts were die cast. The Peavey in the same mold as the bridge, saddles, knobs and neck plate. It was basically free since the weight of material was minuscule. Once you remove the skin that forms on the outside of a die cast part during the cool down process, the interior is very grainy, high friction and can't be polished. Worse thing that can be done to an aluminum topnut is to lower the action by filing the slots and causing the strings to hang up. Can't be cured. Everything was so accurate on the Peaveys that I've never seen one of theirs that really needed lowering. It's an area that's sorely neglected by 99.9% of manufacturers.
Aluminum extrusion will take a high polish and not give problems with hangups in the slots but a taste of graphite doesn't hurt. Small aluminum extrusion is normally available at local metal supplier/fabrication businesses. I use 1/8" through 1/4".
Aluminum extrusion will take a high polish and not give problems with hangups in the slots but a taste of graphite doesn't hurt. Small aluminum extrusion is normally available at local metal supplier/fabrication businesses. I use 1/8" through 1/4".
About aluminum nuts: I make mine from standard 6061 alloy bar stock. It machines and polishes up just fine. I've never had any issues with strings digging or dragging or causing significant wear in the slots. I wouldn't recommend using 3000 series alloy, which is what some of the hardware store extrusions are made of. That's soft and gummy.
I actually went the other direction ... my Spector came with a brass nut. When I downtuned it to BEAD, I had a synthetic one cut for it because I didn't want to marr the original. After a few months I went back to standard, but couldn't locate the original brass one ... so I still use the synthetic one cut for BEAD. The strings fit in there just fine, and I can't tell the difference between the 2. Still has sustain for days either way. Fresh strings matter more, IMO
this must be the difference with aluminum then, using the right alloy and not die-cast.
A local business has 6063 T-5 (used in die punching operations) and it works well. T-5 is the tempered hardness.
I've had a naval bronze nut on my US J plus for almost as long as I've had it and it's never been any problem at all. I split two plastic nuts directly under the G string in the first couple of months I owned it and my repair guy said I might want to consider a brass nut. He said he'd need to order some bar stock to make it and I offered to bring him a piece of naval bronze big enough to make a nut from. I gave him the key stock and he made a nut and after more than twenty years is still doing just fine.
I was about to mention looking for a hard enough alloy, but Mr. Johnson beat me to it.
My Fender has a naval bronze nut made from key stock we used to make material stops out of in a little production shop I worked in.
Turnaround
Commercial User
Now there's a valid reason for changing the nut from plastic to brass. I'm not convinced about other reasons for the switch, though looks may be valid if that's your vibe.
Never heard about them sucking tone, better tell the people who makes bells out of them.
Tarnish, if bothersome, clearcoat it before installing.
Being metal, a couple of lines/grooves filed into the bottom prevents shear................on any nut material.
Never had a brass nut cleave on me under a string.
Instead of different nuts I installed zeroglide zerofrets on my Rick 4003s and Pbass. I like how the open strings sound like a fretted note now, others prefer the standard sound of an open string with a nut.
You'll be more impressed if you get brass string saddles. Check out the new 5 string j-bass which comes with them factory fitted
What are the Pros using to fix the nut in place? CA Glue? Elmers white glue? Is it OK to leave paint under the nut, or does it have to be scraped back to bare wood?
I fasten my aluminum and brass nuts down with a pair of 4-40 socket head cap screws, threading directly into the maple (or other wood) of the neck. It clamps them down tightly to the wood, which is good for sound reasons, and they are easily removable for maintenance.
White or yellow. Wood glue is easier to clean up and is almost accident-proof. Some folks like CA because it's faster.
The glue keeps the nut from moving laterally, especially important for string paths that are not in a straight line from bridge to tuner. String pressure holds the nut down to the fingerboard.
A "permanent" bond, like epoxy, isn't a good idea. At some point the nut will need to be removed. There is little to recommend sawing, grinding, chiseling, and other heavy tool use when a gentle tap and a wiggle or two normally does the trick.
But would his stock bridge and nut have resulted in less sustain from his foam mute that is the big question?
Also how much sustain do you really need?
I really haven't encountered any basses that couldn't hold a note for a couple of bars, and how often do you actually need a note to ring through for more than a couple of bars?
I have fairly often, but what I usually do there is lightly and quickly roll the note with the very tips of my fingers. Once you get the hang of it, it's no big deal to keep the note going for dozens of bars if needed.
