First I would leave the E at 10 mm.
The bridge now has a nice curvature that gives a larger angle for the inner strings to avoid touching a neighbor string with the bow.
The G could be lower, I would take 6 mm for it. Not lower, at least not now, maybe later.
If you make the inner strings a lot lower, the bowing angle decreases. And don‘t forget, you cannot put material back.
So I would recommend to leave the inner strings a bit higher than a increasing string height progression like Eric recommended. I would do 6/8/11/10 mm from G to E.
The bridge feet are only roughly shaped to match the top if at all. The feet are too thick. Usually the feet get progressively thinner towards the outer edges ending in about a mm or less in thickness. The wood doesn’t need to be but from the bottom, it could also be taken from the top of the feet to reshape the feet.
I have reshaped my 5-string DB bridge for a larger bowing angle for each string and didn‘t got enough clearance on the highest one so I often touched the top with the bow. Just a little thing I didn‘t had on my radar when reshaping the bridge.
So the luthier has to change the adjustable bridge for a new pickup anyway and put some wood under the fingerboard to move the angles more towards the E side. Happy now, but that would not have been solvable with a bridge reshaping alone.
It‘s much less of a problem with a 4- string. But I think it would be a good idea to let a luthier correct the bridge, simply because I’m rather sure that the bridge feet are not well shaped to meet the top. Changing a well fitted bridge in string height is not so much of a problem. But progress slowly. Mount the bridge, tune up, check playing with the bow (even if you are not good at it).
If you start with the inner strings (A first by a mm down to 11), you can see what happens with the bowing angle for the A. It gets better again if you lower the D and for the D better when you lower the G. If you want to do this yourself do it that way. You still have room to go lower later or if the bridge feet needs fitting to the top which bridge the string heights a bit down.
Don’t lower perpendicular to the tangent at the bridge crown or you bring the strings closer together. Do it in parallel to the ribs. First make slot deeper (and wide enough that the string doesn’t get clamped), try and when you are happy file the wood away that is not needed.
It can help if you transfer the original shape on paper first, cut the paper and transfer that, a bit angled so that it fits the new files down string position for G and E. Then transfer that curve to the bridge. You might want to correct for D and A a bit but it is easier that way than doing it all by yourself and gets close to how it was before.
Good luck.
