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Brubaker Brute Club, Part 2

Low b is amazing great balance a little heavy around 10 lb I think. Soapbars and ash body rosewood fingerboard a little darker than I prefer but raves from everyone who's heard it. Getting a brute double cut blueburst soon.
 
So, I've had a little over a week with my new baby, to include a weekend stint down in North Carolina.

Right now all I can do is echo the other sentiments posted here....this thing is a beast! You know it's bad when the pianists and organist look at your bass with the "nasty face."

I took my rig down there, an Mesa Boogie M9 Carbine through the venerable Lil G 212. Pure bass heaven!! The M9 already punches like Tyson, and the Brute took it to another level. I played in with both pups on, with the MM in single coil mode...pretty much satisfies my J-bass cravings. Then when our drummer went a little nuts, I switched to the MM soloed, dual coil...cuts through like a knife! I initially bought the Brute thinking I may switch out the pups/electronics, but right now I don't think I need to.

I switched my M9 for a Eden WT800C yesterday (been wanting one FOREVER!!) so I have to get my eq set again, as the Eden adds that pillowy low end to the tone, but overall I'm extremely satisfied with my Brute; I even called Kevin up to tell him lol.

By the way, does anyone have the diagram to wire the MM pup with a three way switch?

Check your PM box concerning the 3 way switch.
 
Pm'd you back Philly (I'll be up your way tomorrow for a church friends 50th birthday celebration).

Hey guys/gals, how low can you all get your action on the Brute? I can get mine low enough to be comfortable, but I normally play with my action almost feather touch low, which is way lower than what I can currently get on the Brute. Idk if this is by design (it actually reminds me of all of the Fender Jazz basses I've played, IME, they don't get very low....) or not. Actually, I can't get any relief in the neck at all. I measure string height at the 17th fret and relief at the 8th fret on the B string (with the first fret capo'd and the last fret pressed). I have my B-D strings set at about 3mm at the 17th fret, but if I fret both the first and last frets on the B string, I get zero clearance at the 8th fret. So the neck is basically straight with no curve at all.

I can lower the overall string height by tightening the truss rod a bit, a tad tighter than how it came stock, but I get way too much buzz, to the point where I'm hearing it through the amp. I just recently put a set of DR Fat Beams as they seem to have slightly less tension than the other strings I've played. They helped a bit, but I'd still like to get things a little lower.

By no means is the bass not comfortable or unplayable, it's my main player right now (I'm giving the Cirrus a break), and I like it a lot. But I'd appreciate any input from you all more experienced players/techs....
 
Low b is amazing great balance a little heavy around 10 lb I think. Soapbars and ash body rosewood fingerboard a little darker than I prefer but raves from everyone who's heard it. Getting a brute double cut blueburst soon.

I'd really like to hear it with those soapbars! Are they Brute pickups as well, or are they a different brand. I bet the headless singlecut looks vicious!

I didn't know they offered the double cut in blueburst?
 
Pm'd you back Philly (I'll be up your way tomorrow for a church friends 50th birthday celebration).

Hey guys/gals, how low can you all get your action on the Brute? I can get mine low enough to be comfortable, but I normally play with my action almost feather touch low, which is way lower than what I can currently get on the Brute. Idk if this is by design (it actually reminds me of all of the Fender Jazz basses I've played, IME, they don't get very low....) or not. Actually, I can't get any relief in the neck at all. I measure string height at the 17th fret and relief at the 8th fret on the B string (with the first fret capo'd and the last fret pressed). I have my B-D strings set at about 3mm at the 17th fret, but if I fret both the first and last frets on the B string, I get zero clearance at the 8th fret. So the neck is basically straight with no curve at all.

I can lower the overall string height by tightening the truss rod a bit, a tad tighter than how it came stock, but I get way too much buzz, to the point where I'm hearing it through the amp. I just recently put a set of DR Fat Beams as they seem to have slightly less tension than the other strings I've played. They helped a bit, but I'd still like to get things a little lower.

By no means is the bass not comfortable or unplayable, it's my main player right now (I'm giving the Cirrus a break), and I like it a lot. But I'd appreciate any input from you all more experienced players/techs....

If you're in the area I can take a look at it for you. Sounds like getting the relief and saddle heights sorted out. Or have Kevin look at it if I can't figure it out.
 
I have had my eye on the Brute basses for a while now. With the addition of the coil tap and the change to alder I'm really GASing for a MJX-4! I wish these basses were more widely available so I could try one out in person. I'm even having trouble finding images of the different colors available, much less an actual new MJX-4 to order on line. Would I still have to pre-order one, or are they going to become more widely available anytime soon?
 
. . .

Hey guys/gals, how low can you all get your action on the Brute? I can get mine low enough to be comfortable, but I normally play with my action almost feather touch low, which is way lower than what I can currently get on the Brute. Idk if this is by design (it actually reminds me of all of the Fender Jazz basses I've played, IME, they don't get very low....) or not. Actually, I can't get any relief in the neck at all. I measure string height at the 17th fret and relief at the 8th fret on the B string (with the first fret capo'd and the last fret pressed). I have my B-D strings set at about 3mm at the 17th fret, but if I fret both the first and last frets on the B string, I get zero clearance at the 8th fret. So the neck is basically straight with no curve at all.

I can lower the overall string height by tightening the truss rod a bit, a tad tighter than how it came stock, but I get way too much buzz, to the point where I'm hearing it through the amp. I just recently put a set of DR Fat Beams as they seem to have slightly less tension than the other strings I've played. They helped a bit, but I'd still like to get things a little lower.

By no means is the bass not comfortable or unplayable, it's my main player right now (I'm giving the Cirrus a break), and I like it a lot. But I'd appreciate any input from you all more experienced players/techs....

If I'm reading/understanding you correctly, sounds like you have no relief at all with the truss rod loosened, IE; no tension or resistance, when turned counter-clockwise, correct?

If so, keep turning your truss rod counter-clockwise until it starts to tighten in that direction. The Brutes have dual action rods, so as you continue to tighten the rod in the opposite direction of what "feels right", the neck should begin to bow and give you the relief you're looking for. I had to do this with the the extreme season changes when I first got my Brute. Over the years it has settled/stabilized to the point that I no longer have to adjust on both sides of the loose/neutral point of my truss rod.

Hope this helps.
 
That is EXACTLY what is happening! Thanks so much for the info, I'm going to try this as soon as I get a chance this evening. I was thinking perhaps I had a unit with a bad trussrod or something, no negative reflection of the company, just that I know mistakes happen. I knew there was something that I wasn't seeing, but I didn't want to half unscrew the trussrod from the neck :-).

Thanks A2Z!

If I'm reading/understanding you correctly, sounds like you have no relief at all with the truss rod loosened, IE; no tension or resistance, when turned counter-clockwise, correct?

If so, keep turning your truss rod counter-clockwise until it starts to tighten in that direction. The Brutes have dual action rods, so as you continue to tighten the rod in the opposite direction of what "feels right", the neck should begin to bow and give you the relief you're looking for. I had to do this with the the extreme season changes when I first got my Brute. Over the years it has settled/stabilized to the point that I no longer have to adjust on both sides of the loose/neutral point of my truss rod.

Hope this helps.
 
Man, I wouldnt mind having a neck made for my Brute, especially if it would mean getting the action lower.

What are the odds of Mr. Brubaker doing that?

Customizing Brutes to this degree wasn't part of the initial game plan and the cost of a US neck exceeds the price of the bass. If that'll work for you you should get in touch with Kevin.

Stephen's bass was just something Kevin decided to do for himself. That's the danger of having your own shop and a vivid imagination;). He took it to the NAMM show and not surprisingly it got a great reception. So he sold it.

It's definitely one of a kind. There's the Zircote board on the custom neck, custom matching Zircote pickguard, custom paint and a definitely nonstandard electronics package.

By the time you do all of that you're in pretty deep.
 
Customizing Brutes to this degree wasn't part of the initial game plan and the cost of a US neck exceeds the price of the bass. If that'll work for you you should get in touch with Kevin.

Stephen's bass was just something Kevin decided to do for himself. That's the danger of having your own shop and a vivid imagination;). He took it to the NAMM show and not surprisingly it got a great reception. So he sold it.

It's definitely one of a kind. There's the Zircote board on the custom neck, custom matching Zircote pickguard, custom paint and a definitely nonstandard electronics package.

By the time you do all of that you're in pretty deep.

Oh, duh, I remember this one now! Yeah, while I'm sure having a custom neck made for the Brute would definitely increase playability and the "it" factor, I'd rather just order a complete USA Brubaker. The neck I want probably wouldn't even justify the price lol. I'd like the neck to be a wenge and maple unit, with the same satin black finish on the back.

Is it just me, or are the tuning posts thinner than on other basses? There's definitely a difference between the Brute and my Cirrus. Changing the strings on the Brute left me with more string clippings than usual.

Took my Brute to Philly yesterday for a birthday party. It showed itself very well....there wasn't a lot going on band-wise, just a keyboardist and a drummer, so not a lot for me to cut through. I didn't care though, I soloed the back pup in dual coil mode and let er rip!!! My NTM Eden WT800c also contributed. It's much heavier than the GB ShuttleMax 9.2, but the tone is killer!!
 
Hey how'd you get a custom brute?

Man, I wouldnt mind having a neck made for my Brute, especially if it would mean getting the action lower.

What are the odds of Mr. Brubaker doing that?

Sorry, just got back online....lots of rain here in Colorado! :eyebrow:

Anyway, Brad kinda covered it....right place right time.

Kevin had originally built this bass for himself and he had it at NAMM '12 on display. Since the Brubaker booth was one of my early destinations, I went by fairly early on in the show....saw it hanging on the wall and fell in love with the looks. Played it for about 10 minutes and fell in love with the action and feel. After a bit of cajolery Kevin and I agreed on a price and consummated a sale. Needless to say it was difficult to leave the bass there afterwards but Kevin wanted to have it to show at NAMM and also to fix a few minor details that we discussed.

Basically, it is a Brute body with a custom neck, pickguard, and electronics. Kevin referred to it as a Hot-Rodded Custom Brute. Price wise I would guess it falls pretty much right in between the brutes and the custom brubakers.

It is easily one of my top 2 basses with the other being the much more expensive Fodera YingYang Standard and while both play very similar (ie., fantastic) they have totally different sounds which make them great compliments to each other.

Here is a photo of Crystal playing it at NAMM.......

CrystalwithmyBruteBass.jpg


On Kevin's bench

brubakerbass_zpsbc518798.jpg


and a couple of wall hanging shots from NAMM. I believe you can see Brad's bass in one of the shots.

Brute2NAMM.jpg
Brute3NAMNN.jpg
brute1NAMM.jpg
 
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Basically, it is a Brute body with a custom neck, pickguard, and electronics. Kevin referred to it as a Hot-Rodded Custom Brute. Price wise I would guess it falls pretty much right in between the brutes and the custom brubakers.

There, Kevin should do a line of "Brute Pro's" that hit that price point right between the Brutes and the customs! :D I doubt if Kevin has the time for that, though, it would be cool and would be perfect for some.
 

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