To follow up on this, the answer is: not enough was left to be useful. Also when trimming the biscuits they have a tendency to flake apart.
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Build thread: fEARful 15 sub
- Thread starter lucas303
- Start date
Use some shrink tubing over your crimp tab deelies, right up on to the metal. You'll find that the space between then on the Neutrik jack is super tight and a little jostling might make them contact each other. It's not likely, but it's cheap insurance.
I don't entirely follow. What parts are you concerned about contacting each other?
The plate came with one, and I did of course attach it. There were none for the handles, but Leland at Speakerhardware said screwing them in is sufficient. I'll probably caulk anyway.
It's really a minor point, but I'm also not in favor of using latex caulk for this purpose. I've typically not used anything as a gasket for handles and that works OK. If you're determined to use something, I'd either use vinyl weather-stripping or 100% silicon caulk, which doesn't get brittle with age and can be had in black. Or you could cut your own gaskets out of single-weight cardboard -- since it's out of sight, it doesn't have to be particularly neat. But as I say, it's really a minor quibble. Your project's looking good so far...what did you finally do about the oversized baffle board? (Did I miss that?)
I was able to use a friend's table saw to cut the baffle where it was supposed to be cut originally. Check back a few posts. I still need to do some fine adjustment of it and I'll probably just sand a little bit of the top edge (we're talking less than a mm).
Regarding the caulk, if I do it I'll just use a tiny bit to make a seal on the inside, I'm not applying it to the outside. I have some silicone caulk so I could use that. I also have another type...siliconized acrylic or something like that. I might not caulk the handles at all though...I'll think about it. Caulking the connector fish shouldn't be at all necessary because it did come with a little stick on gasket.
If you use silicon caulk be sure to let it cure completely as the out-gassing can dissolve some glues used in the speaker driver.
I've never seen a "pro" manufactured cabinet use caulk. The plywood cuts are usually accurate enough to fit and seal without it.
I've never seen a "pro" manufactured cabinet use caulk. The plywood cuts are usually accurate enough to fit and seal without it.
Good to know. Maybe I'll just forego the caulk entirely. If I want to be really belt and suspenders about sealing up the handles I suppose I could just get one of the stick-on gasket materials previously suggested and put that under the handles. I'm probably making a mountain out of a mole hill with this caulking idea though...I think I read it suggested in another thread and that's why it's rattling around in my head.
Dumb question time: the speaker has binding posts that appear to only be marked with colors, rather than + and - (at least from what I could tell looking at it last night). The speakon jack has four tabs (+1, -1, +2, and -2), and I've got two wires for the speaker. What connects to what? 
Black is neg and red is plus. There should still be little + and - marks hiding somewhereDumb question time: the speaker has binding posts that appear to only be marked with colors, rather than + and - (at least from what I could tell looking at it last night). The speakon jack has four tabs (+1, -1, +2, and -2), and I've got two wires for the speaker. What connects to what?
I dont agree.... You went through the trouble of sealing all the cabinet joints airtight with the PL. Why not make sure the handles are airtight as well? If you have the caulk on hand use it (but not Latex and dont make a mess!).
Today I trimmed some of the dried PL in places (primarily the places that have been cured the longest) and set up the other vertical baffle brace:
For getting rid of the excess dried PL I've found a utility knife and putty knife to be very effective. The utility knife isn't even strictly necessary, but it can be helpful for shaving off thin layers that the putty knife might not catch.
I'm pretty much at the end of the first tube of PL so I bought another tube today. I don't know how people make one of these with only one tube of PL (here's an idea, don't apply it like a drunken caveman, maybe?).
Unfortunately the missing pieces from my original order still haven't shipped
For getting rid of the excess dried PL I've found a utility knife and putty knife to be very effective. The utility knife isn't even strictly necessary, but it can be helpful for shaving off thin layers that the putty knife might not catch.
I'm pretty much at the end of the first tube of PL so I bought another tube today. I don't know how people make one of these with only one tube of PL (here's an idea, don't apply it like a drunken caveman, maybe?).
Unfortunately the missing pieces from my original order still haven't shipped
Oh and I still haven't found any + or - marks on the speaker
If you look at the terminals from the side, you should see red. Red indicates the + terminal.
If there is no color code, watch this video:
