Building A CNC - Watch a first timer stumble through a crazy build

[Gilmourisgod]

Dang! Your work is impressively neat and precise, though Ill admit most of it is Greek to me, no experience with CNC other than a few millwork factory tours where they used a (3?) axis machine to cut stair railing parts. Your methodical and detail oriented approach will pay off bigtime, if anything goes wrong, you'll probably know exactly why and how. One thing I always notice on guitar factory tour videos featuring CNC is the lack of any real dust or sawdust control, usually some guy with an air gun just hosing the dust off the machine into the air and onto the floor, which seems counterproductive. I guess you could literally stand there with a shop vac sucking up the waste, but im surprised dust extraction doesnt seem to be built into most big production CNC machines, except the "box" type, where everything is enclosed. The filter on the cooling fan might take some thought to get something you can easily remove and change. I just found out this weekend that I am pretty dramatically allergic to cocobolo, I've started wearing a full face mask respirator every time I touch the stuff.

 

[John_Nicholas]

Dang! Your work is impressively neat and precise, though Ill admit most of it is Greek to me, no experience with CNC other than a few millwork factory tours where they used a (3?) axis machine to cut stair railing parts. Your methodical and detail oriented approach will pay off bigtime, if anything goes wrong, you'll probably know exactly why and how. One thing I always notice on guitar factory tour videos featuring CNC is the lack of any real dust or sawdust control, usually some guy with an air gun just hosing the dust off the machine into the air and onto the floor, which seems counterproductive. I guess you could literally stand there with a shop vac sucking up the waste, but im surprised dust extraction doesnt seem to be built into most big production CNC machines, except the "box" type, where everything is enclosed. The filter on the cooling fan might take some thought to get something you can easily remove and change. I just found out this weekend that I am pretty dramatically allergic to cocobolo, I've started wearing a full face mask respirator every time I touch the stuff.

Wow! Thank you so much for your very kind compliments.

Just an FYI, before beginning this project, I didn't even know the names of the 3 Axis contained on a CNC machine never mind what direction they went. So this is very much a learn as you go project for me.

I agree with you about the lack of proper dust collection on many machines. The more I learn, the more important it seems to be.

Since this machine is being built using low to mid level linear rails and bearings (the stuff everything slides along on) and dirt introduced into these sensitive areas can and will cause excessive wear, protecting them from dust, dirt and other debris is extremely important.

Dust collection will be included on my machine. Looking into shoes that allow easy access to changing the bit, which is a very important thought to keep in mind. My guess is that as usual folks skimp on things trying to spend the least amount of money possible and those cheap solutions don't always work.

In fact, looking at many of these different dust shoes, it looks like they would be very frustrating to use that in the end, they would be thrown on the pile of stuff not being used.

I'm not saying that you need to purchase the most expensive of everything, but make sure whatever you buy will work and not become a frustration.

This shoe is currently at the top of my list.... although I have to leave this decision until the CNC is nearly complete...
KentCNC. STANDARD Split-Shoe

In addition, the plan is to install "shields" along the Y Axis in order to help keep larger chunks of debris from falling into the liner rails and bearings on the gantry.

I have small course filters on each fan, it's really easy to remove the filters and clean them, but keeping the dust out of the air is a much better solution. I do have a Wen air filter that does a great job of removing dust from the air in the shop, this is usually running anytime I'm cutting anything. It does an admirable job keeping the dust down.

As always, I'm open to suggestions to improve any aspect of this build.

Thank you!

 

[TerribleTim68]

I don't know if you've seen any of Frank Howarth's videos, but he did a complete build series of his ginormous CNC here -
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZqh4Qx3PPHka0hxFPcKI475XsxOgrkJb
I enjoy his videos, even tho he is a bit quirky. But dude has mad skills. Also, my wife says you have to drink every time he chuckles.

 

[skycruiser]

Impressive progress!
By the way, if you are pasting text from another site it is causing a color problem for those of us using the "DARK" color scheme for Talk Bass. The last couple of updates look like this (text is black on dark gray):

 

[John_Nicholas]

I don't know if you've seen any of Frank Howarth's videos, but he did a complete build series of his ginormous CNC here -
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZqh4Qx3PPHka0hxFPcKI475XsxOgrkJb
I enjoy his videos, even tho he is a bit quirky. But dude has mad skills. Also, my wife says you have to drink every time he chuckles.

Thanks for the recommendation! I will check it out asap!

 

[John_Nicholas]

Impressive progress!
By the way, if you are pasting text from another site it is causing a color problem for those of us using the "DARK" color scheme for Talk Bass. The last couple of updates look like this (text is black on dark gray):

View attachment 4288831

Yuck!! Yes, I do sometimes paste the text, but this looks so awful!! I will either slap it into a text editor or just retype it!!

Now I want the dark background!!

 

[TerribleTim68]

Thanks for the recommendation! I will check it out asap!

If you browse around some of his other videos, he uses it in a lot of unique ways that I would have never thought of. But there's no indication of which videos he uses it in, it's just small parts here and there of "I decided to use the CNC for this operation...." Like I said, I tend to watch a lot of his videos so I've seen various operations he has done on it. He's an impressive woodworker overall and his video style makes for some good late night mindless relaxing when you're trying to wind down.
His adjustable vertical table is definitely brilliant. You can get sucked down some pretty good rabbit holes in that series, good luck!

 

[John_Nicholas]

A bunch of updates have been completed on the CNC, but I've been too lazy to update the thread.

The 48 Volt power supplies arrived, so now it was possible to mark where the switches can be located. One issue that needed to be taken into account was the depth of the backers on the Emergency Stop switch and the On/Off switch. Since the power supplies are so tall, the switches could not be located anywhere near those!

Once everything was marked and measured, the holes were drilled.

Then the switches were installed.

I also got the other PWM fan motor controller and mounted that on the "new" PCB board holder. Here are the twin controllers side-by-side.

One issue that needed to be addressed was the X Axis mount. The ball screw mount is on a different level than the Linear Rail Bearings, so the plate needed to be raised so they were all on the same level, a custom 15mm Aluminum bar was ordered. And the bearing blocks were placed, so they could be marked.

Here is where a great deal of time was required to measure where all the holes were located on the X Axis mounting plate. I know it doesn't look like much, but from start to finish, just this one plate took about 7.5 hours to manufacture.

There is more to come....

 

[John_Nicholas]

The bearing blocks needed Aluminum spacers/standoffs so they could be properly mounted to the gantry sides. The first step was to mark where the bearings needed to be located so everything was in alignment.

After the mounting holes for the screws were located and drilled, the holes needed to be threaded.

This is how the gantry sides look once the holes are located and threaded.

The next steps will require rebuilding the Linear Rail Bearings. They need to be taken apart, cleaned and lubricated, so they slide easily, because now they are a bit “stiff”.

This needs to be completed before everything can be assembled. The issue is, what lubrication will be the best option to use? Sure I have recommended options and the Manufacturers Lubricating Instructions the trouble is they have suggestions that are not readily available.

The ideal lubrication is available mostly in 55 gallon drums!! Obviously there is no way I would ever purchase that much, so the tough part is finding something that will work and not cost over a thousand dollars!!

Anyone know where to get small quantities of Mobil SHC 639???

 

[skycruiser]

The bearing blocks needed Aluminum spacers/standoffs so they could be properly mounted to the gantry sides. The first step was to mark where the bearings needed to be located so everything was in alignment.

View attachment 4296321

View attachment 4296322

After the mounting holes for the screws were located and drilled, the holes needed to be threaded.

View attachment 4296326

This is how the gantry sides look once the holes are located and threaded.

View attachment 4296327

The next steps will require rebuilding the Linear Rail Bearings. They need to be taken apart, cleaned and lubricated, so they slide easily, because now they are a bit “stiff”.

This needs to be completed before everything can be assembled. The issue is, what lubrication will be the best option to use? Sure I have recommended options and the Manufacturers Lubricating Instructions the trouble is they have suggestions that are not readily available.

The ideal lubrication is available mostly in 55 gallon drums!! Obviously there is no way I would ever purchase that much, so the tough part is finding something that will work and not cost over a thousand dollars!!

Anyone know where to get small quantities of Mobil SHC 639???

This particular gear oil is needed for the 1000 viscosity grade? I see some of the lower grade ones available in small quantities online (quart size, the 630 for example).

 

[John_Nicholas]

This particular gear oil is needed for the 1000 viscosity grade? I see some of the lower grade ones available in small quantities online (quart size, the 630 for example).
View attachment 4296335

Yeah, I found that as well... I've found some 634 in 4oz bottles, but its less than half of the viscosity of the 639.

The chart in the Hiwin Lubrication manual also makes a grease recommendation, but added some grease on these bearings, to test, unfortunately it picks up tons of dirt, looks awful and even worse the bearings feel tighter than they did with the shipping oil.

 

[inchoate]

Yeah, I found that as well... I've found some 634 in 4oz bottles, but its less than half of the viscosity of the 639.

The chart in the Hiwin Lubrication manual also makes a grease recommendation, but added some grease on these bearings, to test, unfortunately it picks up tons of dirt, looks awful and even worse the bearings feel tighter than they did with the shipping oil.

yeah, grease loves to pick up crud. i really try to avoid using it in any environment where it’s exposed to random stuff.

when I started my current job someone had been filling the zerk fittings on the bridgeports with grease. took me a very long time to tear down the lubrication systems and clean it all out. my boss was amazed by how much better things worked with the proper lubricant.

just because it’s a zerk fitting doesn’t mean it automatically gets grease.

 

[John_Nicholas]

yeah, grease loves to pick up crud. i really try to avoid using it in any environment where it’s exposed to random stuff.

when I started my current job someone had been filling the zerk fittings on the bridgeports with grease. took me a very long time to tear down the lubrication systems and clean it all out. my boss was amazed by how much better things worked with the proper lubricant.

just because it’s a zerk fitting doesn’t mean it automatically gets grease.

I agree 100%!

Now all I have to do is to find the correct lubrication!

 

[John_Nicholas]

Next up was to load the software on the Masso. The first step was to hook up the power supply and test to make sure what the actual DC output measures.

The first test showed the power output was a little above the recommended 24 volts, so it was adjusted to read exactly 24 volts

Once the power supply was adjusted, it was time to connect everything required to power up the Masso. Since it needs a 1 AMP fuse, a DIN rail Fuse Holder was purchased, the wireless keyboard connected and the software on a memory stick was connected.

Then of course the monitor was connected…

Then it was powered up… of course I got an error message. In order to load the software you have to press the F1 button. I pressed it a number of times… the trouble is that you need to press the Fn button first before pressing the F1 button. It would be far too embarrassing to tell you how long it took to figure this out.

Once I finally figured out, the software was finally loading….

It was finally all loaded up and it looks awesome.

This will be a very interesting learning experience… I’m truly looking forward to it!

 

[Flying B]

I watched the video that terrible Tim linked to and he said it was basically just drilling hundreds of holes in aluminium which seems to match up with your experience!
Looking great though.

 

[inchoate]

I watched the video that terrible Tim linked to and he said it was basically just drilling hundreds of holes in aluminium which seems to match up with your experience!
Looking great though.

it would all be so much easier if you had some sort of computer controlled machine that you could program to drill the holes.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

When you get this machine up and running, you'll find that it will be very useful for spotting hole locations. Get a 1/4" shank Spotting Drill. It's a short stubby drill bit that has a very accurate grind on the point. It's made specifically for creating the little conical "spots" that a regular drill bit will follow. So, for example, if you have an aluminum plate that needs an accurate pattern of multiple holes, lock it down in the CNC, and it will quickly make the pattern of spots in accurate locations. Then drag the plate over to the drill press to drill the holes.

Spotting drills aren't cheap, but they are worth it. I keep one small drill press set up with a small spotting drill, and I use it to start almost all holes I drill in metal. It's the best way to get a drill bit to go exactly where you want it.

McMaster-Carr

 

[John_Nicholas]

If you browse around some of his other videos, he uses it in a lot of unique ways that I would have never thought of. But there's no indication of which videos he uses it in, it's just small parts here and there of "I decided to use the CNC for this operation...." Like I said, I tend to watch a lot of his videos so I've seen various operations he has done on it. He's an impressive woodworker overall and his video style makes for some good late night mindless relaxing when you're trying to wind down.
His adjustable vertical table is definitely brilliant. You can get sucked down some pretty good rabbit holes in that series, good luck!

Finally sat down and binge watched the entire build series.

First comment... HOLY CRAP his shop is Ginormous!!

His build certainly showed many of the issues that have come up in building my CNC. Yes, lots of drilling! He has some serious computer skills, as nearly everything he did was modeled and to top it all off... he animated some of the real stuff! He puts a great deal of work into his videos that's for sure.

I see what you mean about his small vocal tick, but no big deal, just kind of funny.

Unfortunately, my computer design skills are not even close to what Frank is able to do. And to make matters worse, my build is being done "blind".

What do I mean? While I purchased some plans (midway through my build) all along, as I've learned more about CNC ( when I started I knew nothing) I've made updates, without considering all the issues those changes would affect other areas of the build. So in many cases, I have to manufacture parts to make up for my complete lack of planning.

The good news is I'm still plowing forward, even with all the setbacks, changes, issues and worse...

Even better, it's getting to the point of where I can begin bolting together the gantry and finally have a base that looks like a CNC. Because I have a dear friend who is an Electrical engineer by training, he always gets me looking at that part, way before that is needed. In a way, this is really good, because I work on the electrical components while waiting for deliveries of the parts needed for the frame, so it all works out.

I would highly recommend anyone taking on building a CNC to begin with a solid set of plans or even better a kit from a good manufacturer. Just my silly 2 cents!

 

[John_Nicholas]

I watched the video that terrible Tim linked to and he said it was basically just drilling hundreds of holes in aluminium which seems to match up with your experience!
Looking great though.

Drill, drill, drill, drill, repeat! The part that slows you down is making sure you have accurately located the holes. The drilling itself is just a slow and carefully process.

Thanks for the compliment!

it would all be so much easier if you had some sort of computer controlled machine that you could program to drill the holes.

You are so right!!! Dang, I wish I had a CNC!!

When you get this machine up and running, you'll find that it will be very useful for spotting hole locations. Get a 1/4" shank Spotting Drill. It's a short stubby drill bit that has a very accurate grind on the point. It's made specifically for creating the little conical "spots" that a regular drill bit will follow. So, for example, if you have an aluminum plate that needs an accurate pattern of multiple holes, lock it down in the CNC, and it will quickly make the pattern of spots in accurate locations. Then drag the plate over to the drill press to drill the holes.

Spotting drills aren't cheap, but they are worth it. I keep one small drill press set up with a small spotting drill, and I use it to start almost all holes I drill in metal. It's the best way to get a drill bit to go exactly where you want it.

McMaster-Carr

Hey Bruce,

Once I have the CNC complete, I could just use that to drill the holes in the Aluminum... right?

But it would be excellent for making jigs for other processes!

At this point in time, I don't see myself building anything using steel, but I said the exact same thing about a CNC and look where I am now!!

Thanks!

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Drill, drill, drill, drill, repeat! The part that slows you down is making sure you have accurately located the holes. The drilling itself is just a slow and carefully process.

Thanks for the compliment!



You are so right!!! Dang, I wish I had a CNC!!



Hey Bruce,

Once I have the CNC complete, I could just use that to drill the holes in the Aluminum... right?

But it would be excellent for making jigs for other processes!

At this point in time, I don't see myself building anything using steel, but I said the exact same thing about a CNC and look where I am now!!

Thanks!

Well, no, your CNC machine isn't really made for drilling, particularly drilling metal. It's made for routing wood. You are using a router head for the spindle motor, right? A router head spins way too fast for most drilling, and its collet really only holds two shank sizes, 1/2" and 1/4" (with a bushing). Yeah, you could theoretically put a drill chuck with a 1/2" shank in a router collet, but that would be dangerous. Drilling holes in aluminum should be done in the range of 500-1000 rpm, not 20,000 rpm!

Also, your Z-axis mechanism isn't strong enough or rigid enough for drilling metal. Look at the diameter and length of the sliding spindle assemble in a typical drill press. It's that big for a reason. A 6000 lb Fadal can drill holes in metal all day, but it has ways like a milling machine. Your CNC router is not built like that.

You can get away with using a short 1/4" spotting drill in your router head, and just lightly touching it down on an aluminum plate to make a spot. Then use a regular drill press to drill the hole.