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Building A Short Scale P Bass

Thanks for posting those product ID numbers!

I bought a small can of 3054 and picked up a can of the extra thin 1101. Got it on a tip from Andrew Drake. Says it works nicely to pop the grain prior to applying the 3054.

This next build will have a birds eye maple fretboard which I normally do a wipe on poly. Should be something nice!

The Osmo Poly-x is a fantastic neck finish; it's the ultimate "speed neck" finish. It feels like bare polished wood but with a protective finish that also brings out the beauty of the wood.

I really like natural finishes and Osmo Poly-x is also great for the body, provided you aren't looking for a built up finish.

I still like Minwax Wipe-on Satin Poly (NOT the water-based stuff...) if I'm looking for a thicker finish build. I did quite a few instruments in Tru-oil several years back until the first time I used wipe on poly.

My first wipe-on poly finished instrument, a mandolin, officially ended any desire to ever use Tru-oil again.
 
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Hey Rudy, my being pesky wasn’t for nothing. I did get some turning tool bits, albeit I got them locally because I had a Woodcraft discount coupon, and pry bars. I was able to make both tools for about 1/2 of what one would have been new. Thanks!

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Excellent tools, Matt!

I use the largest and cheapest pry bars that I can find, and those end up being from my local Menard's big box lumber yard. They sell the large bars individually, so you don't have to purchase a "set" of bars. The extra length and weight help considerable with being easy to use.

My local woodworker's specialty store sells the inserts for bars such as Easy Turn, but the inserts from Arizona Carbide are the same and are much cheaper.

I don't do much lathe work, so my technique tends to be pretty remedial, but gets the job done.

For those who are unfamiliar with lathe work there are two general categories, turning and scraping. Actual turning produces better results, often with a mirror-smooth surface, but requires a bit of skill to establish proper cutting geometry between tool and work. It is also MUCH easier for the tool to "catch", so it's more hazardous and it is much easier to ruin your work. Lathe tools also require skill to learn how to properly sharpen them, the proper materials to sharpen them, and need frequent sharpening. It's not unusual to have to touch up the tool edge after only a couple minutes of turning time.

The carbide insert tools are actually scrapers, and although they don't produce the finish that a proper lathe tool does, they are inexpensive, produce good results for beginners, and the cutter can be rotated to present a new cutting edge, although the edge will remain sharp for a long time compared to a standard lathe tool.

I got my lathe to experiment with banjo rims, although I use other methods to produce those that don't require a lathe. I break it out for the occasional set of table legs, shop stool round seat, or a control knob or two. I'm very happy to use the carbide scrapers and don't have the ambition to learn proper "lathe technique".
 
Excellent tools, Matt!

I use the largest and cheapest pry bars that I can find, and those end up being from my local Menard's big box lumber yard. They sell the large bars individually, so you don't have to purchase a "set" of bars. The extra length and weight help considerable with being easy to use.

My local woodworker's specialty store sells the inserts for bars such as Easy Turn, but the inserts from Arizona Carbide are the same and are much cheaper.

I don't do much lathe work, so my technique tends to be pretty remedial, but gets the job done.

For those who are unfamiliar with lathe work there are two general categories, turning and scraping. Actual turning produces better results, often with a mirror-smooth surface, but requires a bit of skill to establish proper cutting geometry between tool and work. It is also MUCH easier for the tool to "catch", so it's more hazardous and it is much easier to ruin your work. Lathe tools also require skill to learn how to properly sharpen them, the proper materials to sharpen them, and need frequent sharpening. It's not unusual to have to touch up the tool edge after only a couple minutes of turning time.

The carbide insert tools are actually scrapers, and although they don't produce the finish that a proper lathe tool does, they are inexpensive, produce good results for beginners, and the cutter can be rotated to present a new cutting edge, although the edge will remain sharp for a long time compared to a standard lathe tool.

I got my lathe to experiment with banjo rims, although I use other methods to produce those that don't require a lathe. I break it out for the occasional set of table legs, shop stool round seat, or a control knob or two. I'm very happy to use the carbide scrapers and don't have the ambition to learn proper "lathe technique".


Yeah, the Harbor Freight I went to just before Christmas only had the reeeealy long pry bars individually or a set so I got the set and used the 2 longest ones. Still, worked out pretty well.
 
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Hi TBers,
Thought I'd add a photo of a modification to this bass that I had in the back of my mind to do when there was nothing else on my plate to do.

In the original post (and CAD drawing) I mentioned that I might (or might not) shorten the upper horn. Since this was a brand-new design for me I made the body with the longer upper horn to make sure there would be no balance problems when wearing it with a strap. The weight distribution was fine, but the upper horn could be obviously shortened with no chance for neck dive, so I trimmed 1" from the length of the upper horn.

Since I used Osmo Poly-x oil for a finish it was super-easy to do. I trimmed to length, rounded the edges, sanded and applied Osmo Poly-x on the newly sanded wood. The modification is impossible to distinguish from the original finish. I love this stuff!

Top - Bass as originally completed
Middle - upper horn shortened and shaped, recessed Straplok re-installed
Bottom - All better!

YVQsdvg.jpg
 
Hi TBers,
Thought I'd add a photo of a modification to this bass that I had in the back of my mind to do when there was nothing else on my plate to do.

In the original post (and CAD drawing) I mentioned that I might (or might not) shorten the upper horn. Since this was a brand-new design for me I made the body with the longer upper horn to make sure there would be no balance problems when wearing it with a strap. The weight distribution was fine, but the upper horn could be obviously shortened with no chance for neck dive, so I trimmed 1" from the length of the upper horn.

Since I used Osmo Poly-x oil for a finish it was super-easy to do. I trimmed to length, rounded the edges, sanded and applied Osmo Poly-x on the newly sanded wood. The modification is impossible to distinguish from the original finish. I love this stuff!

Top - Bass as originally completed
Middle - upper horn shortened and shaped, recessed Straplok re-installed
Bottom - All better!

View attachment 4144305
I think the modification made the overall look better. Previous length was a bit...odd looking. Now it flows better from one transition to the next.
:thumbsup:
 
Thanks for the comments! My intentions were to shorten it as long as there were no balance problems when hanging.

It fits in with the idea that you can easily remove material, but it's more of a problem to add it! ;)

I now have my fretless 30" scale with a MM pickup (and piezo bridge pickup) and this 30" fretted with the "P" pickup. I'm gonna play 'em both for a while, but ultimately, I really like the MM pickup on my 30" fretless if I'm going to use a magnetic pickup.

The 30" fretless has the active piezo bridge pickup that I like WAY better than either the P or the MM, but that's a whole other subject for discussion.

I MAY ultimately take out the P and put in a MM style pickup, but that's down the road a bit.

Rudy "Hedging my bets since 1972" 4444
 
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Now it's rudy"Mohel"4444 :D

A quick Google search for "Mohel" resulted in a great amount of laughter from both myself and Mrs. rudy4444. :)

We've been working our way through "The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel" on Amazon Prime video, but my education in that area of culture had not reached that level yet... ;)
 
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Just wanted to say thank you for these PDFs. I used one of them today to setup string spacing with rolling saddles.Thank you!

Part of what is nice about working with a CAD plan is that I can easily print off sections of the plan as specifically sized "tiles" and print them out on a standard printer to make full sized partial sections of the full size plan. The body portion of the plan is supplied here in four quadrants that can be cut out and taped together to serve as a full size template to assist with layout.

The other pdfs are individual full size pdfs of other sections of the plan. All of them have the dimensions of the outline border in a corner of the pdf, and can be printed actual size. This sometimes requires a bit of work to make sure your print dialog box is configured to print to the pdf stated size. Verify the size of the printed border to make sure it has printed accurately. My Brother laser printer has to be fudged to print "105%" for my CAD pdfs to size correctly, as an example.

View attachment 4032338

Below are the individual PDFs that can be printed out full size. The four pdfs that compose the main body are "tiled" so they can be cut out and assembled to form the entire full size body. (It's best to download the pdfs and work with them on your computer.)

Links to individual PDFs:

Top Left:


Top Right:


Bottom Left:


Bottom Right:


Headstock:


Raw Brass Bridge:


Fret Layout Guide:


String Spacing Guide:
 
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Just wanted to say thank you for these PDFs. I used one of them today to setup string spacing with rolling saddles.Thank you!

Hi Starjag,
You are entirely welcome.

I have a few different "set up aids" that I developed in CAD and keep in the shop. They get used a LOT and pretty much eliminate any need for calculating or measuring and the possibility of introducing error when doing that. They are hanging up on a clipboard and when they get ragged I just print out a new one.

I COULD spend money on a few of those store-bought luthiery tools designed to part my money form me, but what fun would that be? ;)

The computer connection came fairly early for me when I downloaded my first luthiery-specific program, Wfret by the terribly generous Jon Whitney. Printing out my first fret layout without all the hazards of doing calculations and measurements sold me on the usefulness of creating custom aids based on how I like to work. The "tapered line" spacing aids can be easily produced without a computer so it's a very simple way of ensuring accuracy in your work that anyone can use.

Prior to that I would sit down with a calculator and produce layouts using the 12th root of 2 method and hope I entered all the numbers in correctly!

The real step backward in accuracy was the early factory instruments where fret layout was done by transferring slot locations from guides made by geometric projection. Many of us that have many years of doing instrument work have seen factory instruments that had fret locations so obviously misplaced that intonation was severely effected.

TMI for early in the morning, but I gotta do something while having my Special K. ;)
 
Just wanted to thank you for this thread.

Very helpful
You're entirely welcome. I don't post a lot of "how to" topics, but try to make them more meat & potatoes than fluffy rice when I do. ;)

If you find the material here helpful be sure to look over the "Fretless 30" topic, too. It's similar, but does have some different ideas presented within the topic. The link to that build topic is contained in the first post of this topic if you missed it.

I play this bass fairly often when I do fill in jobs for a few local bands I am loosely affiliated with and still love the comfortable ergonomics and great sound of a simple P bass setup.

I'm currently playing (and building) 6 string electrics in both nylon and steel strung configurations that have turned out to be super pleasing to me. I am entertaining the idea of making a 4 string bass version using the somewhat unique construction techniques for those guitars, and if I end up doing that project I'd post the process here. I try to only post projects that are different than the usual things you see posted by other folks, and that conceptual bass would fit into that category.

The "formula" for construction of those guitars is posted on the Telecaster forum here:

"Jagsquire", The Utilitarian Short Scale Ultra-light Customizable Homebrew"