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Buying a 110v amp for a 240v world
- Thread starter Vin_MM_Sabre_79
- Start date
I suspect that it would relate more to having to comply with international safety requirements to support the CE Marking that isn't required in the US.
That was the point that I tried to get Mesa to understand when I contacted them, the trouble was in their arrogance they gave me a load of intelligence insulting answers and stopped answering my emails because I was able to shoot down their silly answers, an example is that somebody has to pay for the very good back up service in the UK; wow, what confidence in there own product that they charge more than double the price to cover the expense of expected problems.
I wanted a Walkabout Scout Combo, at $1300 it was good but not at $2800!
I've dug up an old thread and didn't notice this one, so i'll post the same question here 
My question is related directly to the Eden WT800A. To use a US 800A on 240v is it correct that I just need to flip the fuse holder over and insert a 5amp fuse?
I have written to Eden as the manual only states US usage requirements, but im not getting much out of them yet. Cheers.
My question is related directly to the Eden WT800A. To use a US 800A on 240v is it correct that I just need to flip the fuse holder over and insert a 5amp fuse?
I have written to Eden as the manual only states US usage requirements, but im not getting much out of them yet. Cheers.
I've dug up an old thread and didn't notice this one, so i'll post the same question here
My question is related directly to the Eden WT800A. To use a US 800A on 240v is it correct that I just need to flip the fuse holder over and insert a 5amp fuse?
I have written to Eden as the manual only states US usage requirements, but im not getting much out of them yet. Cheers.
I believe so, yes. You'll find posts on this on the Eden forum website- just do a search for "voltage conversion" or "240v" or "110v". I'd double check that fuse rating.
Moral of the story? I ended up with a $2200Au amp for a little over $1000Au including shipping etc... My advice to any Aussies shopping for amps- NEVER buy new locally. I don't know why they insist on charging so much - A rip off as far as I can tell.
Good stuff Vin but I am a little unsure about your advice.
Being unsure about being ripped off that is,
The trouble we have in Oz is mostly the size of the market and what that market buys. The bedroom player sales is ok, the pro market, mmmmm not big.
Then add on taxes, insuranse etc etc.
Even the largest of shops do not sell a heap of bass gear, of coarse they need to make a profit so as to keep the doors open hence maybe that profit is larger than the US retailers make, that applies to all imports into our country, plus the difference in value of the dollar.
Also the importer wants to make a dollar too, and we have only a few musical equipment importers, they make no money, they stop importing. business business business.
Does your new amp have any warranty? if so do you have to take it to the brands retailer first? just imagine what he would think.
Dont get me wrong, I also have thought about importing but there are a few things that can go wrong and the less knowledgable should be aware. If you can handle the hassles then fair enough.
All the best with your amp
Phil
Good stuff Vin but I am a little unsure about your advice.
Being unsure about being ripped off that is,
The trouble we have in Oz is mostly the size of the market and what that market buys. The bedroom player sales is ok, the pro market, mmmmm not big.
Then add on taxes, insuranse etc etc.
Even the largest of shops do not sell a heap of bass gear, of coarse they need to make a profit so as to keep the doors open hence maybe that profit is larger than the US retailers make, that applies to all imports into our country, plus the difference in value of the dollar.
Also the importer wants to make a dollar too, and we have only a few musical equipment importers, they make no money, they stop importing. business business business.
Does your new amp have any warranty? if so do you have to take it to the brands retailer first? just imagine what he would think.
Dont get me wrong, I also have thought about importing but there are a few things that can go wrong and the less knowledgable should be aware. If you can handle the hassles then fair enough.
All the best with your amp
Phil
Oz seems to be the same as the UK where UK produced gear (Ashdown) is more expensive in the UK than in the US, maybe the air in the US makes them more reliable or is the shipping less expensive because of the direction that the earth rotates.
A very high percentage of the componenets inside gear are universal; and those parts that aren't invariably takes ages to arrive even from the registered dealers/importers etc.
So yes we are ripped off.
Maybe it's a Commonwealth thing....prices in NZ are insane as well.
I blame the Queen
The problems with the instrument/amp markets in Australia, New Zealand and the UK among others are multifactorial...
1) Less competition than in the US
2) The best gear (generalisation I know) has to be shipped from the US to here
3) More middle men (most brands used to sell to local distributors, who would sell on to shops - this is lessening lately in NZ with more major manufacturers signing up directly with rockshop or musicworks as I understand things. The chains however simply absorb the middleman's cut rather than passing on the savings)
4) Different sales philosophy - US is about moving volume not profit per item - NZ is definitely about profit per item. I was recently in the US and bought a guitar
at GC at cost with almost no haggling - they just wanted to move it on, and a piece of plastic on the pickup selector was broken. It cost me NZ$240, locally I would estimate the minimum cash upfront price at about NZ$750
Buying used is always a risk, but it's often worth taking. I once bought a piece of recording gear in the US. I checked the prices, and for the price of buying it in New Zealand, I could have flown to NYC, bought it and flown home. I was going to NYC anyway, so I could have bought a spare, had them both shipped home, and still paid less than I would have in NZ.
Buying sight unseen is even riskier, but again, what are the chances that both items will be busted even if you end up buying twice. If it's half the cost (and you're prepared to take a bit of a risk) you still win, 'cause you have some spare parts from the busted one!
Steve
1) Less competition than in the US
2) The best gear (generalisation I know) has to be shipped from the US to here
3) More middle men (most brands used to sell to local distributors, who would sell on to shops - this is lessening lately in NZ with more major manufacturers signing up directly with rockshop or musicworks as I understand things. The chains however simply absorb the middleman's cut rather than passing on the savings)
4) Different sales philosophy - US is about moving volume not profit per item - NZ is definitely about profit per item. I was recently in the US and bought a guitar
at GC at cost with almost no haggling - they just wanted to move it on, and a piece of plastic on the pickup selector was broken. It cost me NZ$240, locally I would estimate the minimum cash upfront price at about NZ$750Buying used is always a risk, but it's often worth taking. I once bought a piece of recording gear in the US. I checked the prices, and for the price of buying it in New Zealand, I could have flown to NYC, bought it and flown home. I was going to NYC anyway, so I could have bought a spare, had them both shipped home, and still paid less than I would have in NZ.
Buying sight unseen is even riskier, but again, what are the chances that both items will be busted even if you end up buying twice. If it's half the cost (and you're prepared to take a bit of a risk) you still win, 'cause you have some spare parts from the busted one!
Steve
Hi Steve, there is still no justifcation in a Messa Wlakabout Scout costing 117% more in the UK than the US bearing in mind that the price I was qouted was retail and included US tax which as far as I know is not charged on exports, shipping for an individual amp to the UK is £100 the importers ship in bulk.
Actually, the requirements for US and EC are very close now, UL is accepting the EC requirements with very minor changes.
So the differences, which never were very large, are now mostly paperwork issues, and actually wiring for 230/240V, with appropriate fusing.
Australia is a different matter.
While the EC seems to be moving towards a universal 230V, Australia has very large variations, and usually a 240V unit is required to cover the high side mains voltages.
The EC would assume that 240V might reach 264V.
In Australia, the power company says that surges to 280V are possible for what is nominally 240V. So that is another world, power-wise.
So the differences, which never were very large, are now mostly paperwork issues, and actually wiring for 230/240V, with appropriate fusing.
Australia is a different matter.
While the EC seems to be moving towards a universal 230V, Australia has very large variations, and usually a 240V unit is required to cover the high side mains voltages.
The EC would assume that 240V might reach 264V.
In Australia, the power company says that surges to 280V are possible for what is nominally 240V. So that is another world, power-wise.
- Feb 12, 2006
- 61,070
- 5
- 221,134
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
Australia also has the C-tick requirements that are different than the EU's CE testing.
For Australia, I use 275 volts for my high line design conditions, typically 260-265 volts elsewhere. This requires a different transformer or power supply in most cases. This is a low volume part so it costs more to manufacture and stock.
For Australia, I use 275 volts for my high line design conditions, typically 260-265 volts elsewhere. This requires a different transformer or power supply in most cases. This is a low volume part so it costs more to manufacture and stock.
So what happens if the current surges too high? Does the fuse blow or does the amp cook?
That suggests that a 230v amp would work off 240v most of the time. ie: big surges in Aussie voltage would end the party?
That suggests that a 230v amp would work off 240v most of the time. ie: big surges in Aussie voltage would end the party?
- Feb 12, 2006
- 61,070
- 5
- 221,134
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
Either is a possibility. It also stresses many of the components so failure may occur down the road.
Yes, most of the time it would work just fine... but a real voltage surge could end the party early unless there was a good stock of refreshments that would otherwise go to waste.
The issue is the overvoltage capability.
For 120V, the normal overvoltage is up to 132Vac. For 240V, up to 264Vac. Essentially, 10% over is the UL or CE mark (basically IEC standards) requirement. I don't recall if C-tick is different, although the Australian voltages will be.
Equipment MUST be able to handle that safely (safe does not necessarily mean still works afterwards, but that is generally assumed).
For 230Vac, then, the normal range would include up to 253Vac.
That does include 240Vac, and usually will work fine.
However, you have already "used up" half of your overvoltage tolerance just "getting to" 240Vac, so there is a chance of going past the voltages that have been tested and guaranteed if your 240Vac goes up to the limit (264Vac, or higher). That does not mean it *will* fail, it really means *maybe* it will.
BTW, there is sorta no such thing as a "current surge"..... it would be a voltage surge, which might or might not be associated with more current. Just a techie semantics issue.
For 120V, the normal overvoltage is up to 132Vac. For 240V, up to 264Vac. Essentially, 10% over is the UL or CE mark (basically IEC standards) requirement. I don't recall if C-tick is different, although the Australian voltages will be.
Equipment MUST be able to handle that safely (safe does not necessarily mean still works afterwards, but that is generally assumed).
For 230Vac, then, the normal range would include up to 253Vac.
That does include 240Vac, and usually will work fine.
However, you have already "used up" half of your overvoltage tolerance just "getting to" 240Vac, so there is a chance of going past the voltages that have been tested and guaranteed if your 240Vac goes up to the limit (264Vac, or higher). That does not mean it *will* fail, it really means *maybe* it will.
BTW, there is sorta no such thing as a "current surge"..... it would be a voltage surge, which might or might not be associated with more current. Just a techie semantics issue.
I need an advice too.
I use Ampeg svt3pro which is easily switchable.
But I plan to buy an SVT-CL head. How's voltage switching in this one?
I travel a lot and I just need that.
Thx
I use Ampeg svt3pro which is easily switchable.
But I plan to buy an SVT-CL head. How's voltage switching in this one?
I travel a lot and I just need that.
Thx
Looking at the rear panel of the CL on Ampeg's site, it appears that the voltage selection must be made by a tech inside the chassis, not by a user flipping a switch on the rear panel.
However, the manual for the SVT3Pro seems to be the same way, which leads me to believe that the manuals available on-line are for the US Domestic market and "export" products are slightly different.
Perhaps Jerrold can shed some light on that for us...
