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Discussion in 'Off Topic [BG]' started by ::::BASSIST::::, Dec 28, 2011.
Seriously? What an odd cultural difference, if that is the case...
Get an emissions check if you can, I'd think it could well be the cat. I had something similar but not on a code, changed O2 sensor, mass air flow meter, HT's, plugs, 'twas the cat.
They don't call them "idiot lights" for nothing.
Well, I could be wrong. I've never had a 'fancy' car like this before... just beaters.
It would be nice if someone knowledgeable from BC would chime in.
However, I do believe my hunch is correct. No free lunch up here.
He probably means the catalytic converter, part of the emissions system.
Also, I'm really curious if your hunch is correct and parts stores don't scan for free. Please call a local one and post the results... /curious
FWIW, I bought a code reader for around 50 bucks. It paid for itself on the first self repair job, which is the only one I've used it for so far.
His avatar threw me.
You don't have cat power there?
Shorthand here for the converter as Balog mentioned.
The check engine light can come on for a number of reasons. It could be as minor as your gas cap not being tight or it could be major and serious.
Without proper diagnosis you're only guessing. Today's cars need to hooked up to the proper trouble code reader.
I'm not sure about Honda but some makes around that age can throw out multiple codes, not always correct on various occasions ime.
When did you change the converter last?
Never have changed the converter. I bought the car used 2 years ago. No issues whatsoever until now.
You should really at least have the codes retrieved, you're in the dark without knowing what code or codes are stored. Most shops will retrieve the codes free or for very little as long as you just ask for the codes not a full diagnosis.
Most likely problems with this car would be:
Bad catalytic converter (usually not going to cause running problems).
Bad oxygen sensor (if it's a pre cat sensor, replace it asap, if it's post cat don't worry about it).
Ignition system (usually bad distributor, fix it asap before it quits running).
V-tec problem (usually caused by low &/or dirty oil, could also be a faulty valve. Usually won't cause running problems).
Transmission fault if it's an automatic (usually means it's slipping, it will fail soon, get rid of the car before it quits pulling).
I agree it's worth going with the codes first to isolate the problem if it does, you don't want to replace the converter (that being the priciest part) if it's matter of a failed O2 sensor really.
Yeah, the shops will read your codes for little money, or even for free in some cases.
One option is to get a suitable diagnostic reader yourself, they are quite cheap nowadays and you don't need to take your car to the shop at every sign of trouble. Just make sure you get the right one for your model and year. Most cars since 2000 use the OBD2-connector IIRC, but I had to get a older manufacturer-specific piece for my 1998 Nissan, actually in form of a laptop dongle and some freeware software.
The thing reads the error codes, and depending on the model, gives you all the monitoring stats / sensor readings of your engine in real time. It's pretty much a must, if you plan on doing some work on your car yourself. I saved a lot of cash with mine when I had some sensor problems - in the end, the cost of the diagnostics tool and getting a new gray-market sensor was less than $200, when the Nissan dealer was estimating the costs including OEM bits at $1500..
"V-tec problem (usually caused by low &/or dirty oil, could also be a faulty valve. Usually won't cause running problems)."
I think that's it. The oil was running really low and she took 3 litres. Dont understand why though as it was just changed 2 months ago.
What exactly is a "V - tec"... is it expensive to fix?
3 litres, 2 months, ouch. I think you may have a substantial oil leak (which you would notice) or the car is burning a load of oil (which you would probably also notice on exhaust discolorations). At the oil change, did you check the dipstick? Any chance it might have been under-filled?
It may have been under-filled.
That particular garage we used was sleazy... totally pushing for upsales. Wont go there again.
The car is not leaking or we would have noticed an oil puddle where we park. I am going to keep a closer eye on it now.
Get the code read. Any guessing on why the light is on is only pissing in the wind.
Wow... That's honestly a rip off... at that point you matters well take it to an actual mechanic.