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Changing pickup spacing in jazz bass

I have a VM jazz bass that I absolutely love; great feel, sets up with super low action. And has that notorious jazz "growl". I have had this sexy beast for about three years.

My only issue with it is for a bass based on a 75 jazz, the pickup spacing are the 60's measurements.

So my question. Is it feasible to move the bridge p/u back to the 70's spacing? And if anyone has ever done this please chime in.
 
It can definitely be done. It just takes tools, paint and the skill to use both. Question is, is it WORTH doing?

I think your best bet is to find a replacement body with 70's spacing, like a Geddy Lee body and use that instead.

There are several on eBay right now and you could pickup either a black, or 3TS for about $300.

If you have to have a luthier do the routing and restorative work, I think you would come out pretty close on cost.

All the best,

Bob
 
I would go play a couple of jazz basses with 70's spacing before I spent any money, especially since you're happy with the sound of your bass "as is." Sometimes specs sound better on paper and the only way to stop "listening with your eyes" is to get out and play things firsthand.

That's not to say that moving your bridge pickup is a necessarily a bad thing. I would just want to be sure before I got out the router or bought another body. Mike Pope has an interesting approach to this on his signature Fodera: an adjustable bridge pickup:

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You're just nitpicking. You route a new hole, you get a patch work bass. That's it. How many people in your world even know the difference? If you do it those that know probably still would give you a hard time because its only a Squier. I love my blonde VMJ as it is. I Wouldn't think of cutting it up and having to hide a hole in her natural finish body. Ymmv I guess. Have fun.
 
Moving that pickup is a disaster in the very planning. It's naked. It's routed straight into the wood, with no reasonable solution to hide the scar of that mod, while maintaining anything that resembles a Jazz Bass. As others have suggested, you will be much further along to snatch up a body routed that way.
 
You're just nitpicking. You route a new hole, you get a patch work bass. That's it. How many people in your world even know the difference? If you do it those that know probably still would give you a hard time because its only a Squier. I love my blonde VMJ as it is. I Wouldn't think of cutting it up and having to hide a hole in her natural finish body. Ymmv I guess. Have fun.

^^ this ...

.. unless you are set on making it accurate ...

... but then you might as well:

... put a 7.25 radius neck on it
... convert to a 3 bolt Micro-Tilt neck plate
... add the Bullet truss rod
... re-spray the body to a nitro finish
... (after you) convert the maple body to ash of course
... switch out the machines to Fender 'stamped'
... finish it all off with black plastic knobs ...

.. I think you get the point, and of course I am being facetious ...

.. you have a very good bass that you are happy with in every way (if nobody ever told you the pups were 1/4" off) ... the bass used is currently worth about $175-200 ... play it like you stole it and dont look back .. JMHO
 
Since the blond is a non-transparent finish, I'd extend the route towards the bridge by the prescribed 1/2˝, re-position the pickup, fashion a plastic spacer out of something and paint it in the same finish as the body, then insert it between the pickup and the neck-most end of the route so it sits flush with the wood. It would be nigh-invisible except from up close, and if you decide the 60s position is better after the mod, you'd simply move the pickup back and position the spacer downward.

If you were to go down the "movable pickup" route, I'd suggest making two identical spacers and putting one ahead and one behind the pickup. That way you'd be able to move the pickup around and always have the hole covered, although the spacers'd have to be raised so they're on top of the wood.
 
Stealth: But they are transparent finishes! ImageUploadedByTalkBass.com1357307370.449426.jpg
 
In that case, I'd simulate the grain on spacer either using a printed glossy sticker or hand-inked grain. It wouldn't be perfect, but it'd work well.
Or go with a custom pickup surround that surrounds the entire pickup rout, like a mini-pickguard. Were it my bass, I wouldn't hide a feature like that by forcing it to appear stock. :D
 
Thanks for the input guys. I love the fodera idea of a moveable p/u. Hell I would love a fodera but my wallet wouldn't. I think I am going to get a loaded geddy bass body and slap on a p-bass neck. A la Timmy C
Is that blasphemous? Maybe. But I was never a fan of the thin neck on the geddy.
 
Man if you want to experiment just do it. At the end of the day you'll know a lot more than the people who didn't. It's just a VM. Hell, my blank slate was an '82 US '57 re-issue P bass I bought new. I've shaved the headstock and plugged it to accommodate lighter tuners. It's had at least 10 different pickups in 4 locations, a battery door installed and 5 different pick guards. It's been refinished once. It has screw holes from where I experimented with double strap systems. The back of the neck is sanded.

What I learned about pickups and pickup placement and balance is real. I also still have that bass and regularly use it because I've made it work for me. So examine everyone's advice but do what you need to do to satisfy your own curiosity.
 
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I think there is a huge difference between 60s and 70s PU spacing.
I did the modification on two basses. The both play great but the 60s sound is not for me.I don't care so much about resale value or originality. I just want the instrument to sound right to my ears. Both of them sound as good as my souped up 74 Fender Jazz now. Maybe even better.
Making the change worked for me.....