I agree, on average, there are differences (i.e, comparing the average tone of, say, 100 pieces of one type of wood to 100 pieces of another type). However, once you get into a particular variety of a particular type of wood, not so much IMO. The within piece variation seems to overwhelm any systematic varietal differences IME.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
- Status
I agree, on average, there are differences (i.e, comparing the average tone of, say, 100 pieces of one type of wood to 100 pieces of another type). However, once you get into a particular variety of a particular type of wood, not so much IMO. The within piece variation seems to overwhelm any systematic varietal differences IME.
Hi Ken- I have had the Lo-Rider nickel and steels both. I found the difference to be kind of negligible, as I recall. The steels are somewhat livelier and slightly lower in tension (I think)...I switched from an old steel set to a new nickel set, and I thought the nickels were just a little more taught (though it could have been that the steels were well broken in), a little smoother in the high end, and just a little less grindy in the treble.
As always, I find the lo-rider steels to be a nice modern approximation of the Rotosounds, which I feel work well on "60's style" jazz bass with a passive roll off engaged.
Another string I like is the Fender stainless steel...it would be whatever comes on the custom shop basses.
W
As always, I find the lo-rider steels to be a nice modern approximation of the Rotosounds, which I feel work well on "60's style" jazz bass with a passive roll off engaged.
Another string I like is the Fender stainless steel...it would be whatever comes on the custom shop basses.
W
Here are a couple more pictures of the bass in more natural light. These do a better job of showing the color. It really is something. Lot's of depth to that color and finish. It is a different thing than the very bright, accurate, constant poly finishes I have on my other bass. This reminds me of the Guinness tagline 'it's alive inside' or whatever. There is an organic sort of thing to this finish, with some yellow dipping in and out of the green, etc.. I dig it! You can see a bit of that chocolate RW thing I was describing in the second picture. I assume the dots are maple, but not sure. They look nice!
Very cool...........now if only you guys could talk Jimmy into getting some heavy pieces of ash I could do my own LG/LM comparison........
+1...it certainly can on a particular build, but Brazilian Rosewood has been tops for many a luthier for many a year for a reason, and for sure not the price (then or now).
Each instrument can be different though. At the same time I have been amazed at how many can be repeatedly the same.
You could always by my Celinder Update
12+ pounds of Marcus Miller 70's J on steroids blissAt least some of that choice is based on color and general aesthetics. I do see a vast difference in the look of various RW varieties. The Madagascar or whatever it is on my Sadowsky is almost red.
One of the things that impresses me with Jimmy's boards is that he does a great job picking that old school, deep chocolate/brown color for his boards, regardless of the variety of RW. From the few I've seen in person, and all the pictures on these threads, these board (Indian, Brazilian, DN, etc.) all look a LOT alike. I dig that a lot, especially for these old school looking and sounding LG's!
+1...wood is a mysterious beast, you have to really know it to build well (and Jimmy sems to be all over that).
What surprises me is how much his RW boards continue to darken over time (regardless of type) even though they are already so old/cured to begin with.
Lots to learn there for me, anyway.
- Oct 17, 2006
- 731
- 21
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Aguilar Amplification, Dunlop/MXR
He had a LM5 at BP Live this year that was EXTREMELY heavy. With that said, if you wanted your ash heavier than that then more power to you.
You could always by my Celinder Update
Tell you what..........put Jimmy's pickups and pre in there and you got a deal..........
Tell you what..........put Jimmy's pickups and pre in there and you got a deal..........
Hard to argue with that. Yeah, it's a super active, modern sounding bass. I dug that sort of 'J on Steroids' thing for a while, but it's just not where I'm at. I dig the mid growl at this point!
Nice pics Ken...
So my LG came to me with Hi Beams 45-125 on, as I said I ordered two sets of nickels from Jimmy 45-130. I put them on last night and I wasn't in love, so I let them sit over night to see if they settle or change, well they didn't the E string to me sounded a little dead and not enough fundamental, the 130 B string was nice and tight though.
I moved on to old reliable Ernie Ball Slinky's, the 4 string set with a 125 B. They don't package that as a 5 string set for whatever reason. I thought these were better then the Alleva nickels but just didn't get me there.
Along the way I made some adjustments to the truss rod and saddle height. I think I dialed it in even better. Finally went back to the DR Hi Beams and realized with this bass the strings just work right. I can dig in and get a nice meaty tone, or slap around and get nice and funky.
The original setup had very little relief and some crazy low action, perfect for a night of beatin' her with your thumb and it sounded like a 70s monster. Now with more relief and some room to dig in she sits kind of as a misfit not quite a 60s thumper and not quite a 70s monster, I actually really like it that way! She's seeming to be a kind of hybrid depending on the set up.
In any case I have a set of Alleva Nickels used that were on the bass for about 12 hours, a new set and a set of EB Slinky that are used on the the bass for about an hour. Anybody that's interested in giving these a shot on your AC send me a PM as they've been cut and might not fit a 35" scale or through body bridge. Otherwise they maybe sitting in my string draw for a long time so hit me up any time.
I'm going to order some Hi beams, racking up a little bill here, but I think I'm in the right place.
So my LG came to me with Hi Beams 45-125 on, as I said I ordered two sets of nickels from Jimmy 45-130. I put them on last night and I wasn't in love, so I let them sit over night to see if they settle or change, well they didn't the E string to me sounded a little dead and not enough fundamental, the 130 B string was nice and tight though.
I moved on to old reliable Ernie Ball Slinky's, the 4 string set with a 125 B. They don't package that as a 5 string set for whatever reason. I thought these were better then the Alleva nickels but just didn't get me there.
Along the way I made some adjustments to the truss rod and saddle height. I think I dialed it in even better. Finally went back to the DR Hi Beams and realized with this bass the strings just work right. I can dig in and get a nice meaty tone, or slap around and get nice and funky.
The original setup had very little relief and some crazy low action, perfect for a night of beatin' her with your thumb and it sounded like a 70s monster. Now with more relief and some room to dig in she sits kind of as a misfit not quite a 60s thumper and not quite a 70s monster, I actually really like it that way! She's seeming to be a kind of hybrid depending on the set up.
In any case I have a set of Alleva Nickels used that were on the bass for about 12 hours, a new set and a set of EB Slinky that are used on the the bass for about an hour. Anybody that's interested in giving these a shot on your AC send me a PM as they've been cut and might not fit a 35" scale or through body bridge. Otherwise they maybe sitting in my string draw for a long time so hit me up any time.
I'm going to order some Hi beams, racking up a little bill here, but I think I'm in the right place.
Hey Pete,
From my experience with that bass, that is again somewhat similar to the tone and feel of my LM, I think you will get to LOVE the Hi Beams on there. Just dial down that passive tone control, and you should have all the warmth and growl you need. It's also nice to be able to then dial in a little more zing in dark sounding rooms, etc.
Hey Ken,
What does that bad boy weigh?
I have heard that weight seems to effect the sound of an Alder bass much less than it would in Ash...but I've always been curious for some stats/experience from owners.
Would love to hear from others as well that might have/had or just had the chance to play multiples of varying weights to compare. Everthing I get to compare is always ash it seems.
What does that bad boy weigh?
I have heard that weight seems to effect the sound of an Alder bass much less than it would in Ash...but I've always been curious for some stats/experience from owners.
Would love to hear from others as well that might have/had or just had the chance to play multiples of varying weights to compare. Everthing I get to compare is always ash it seems.
As do I........just wished someone did the whole late '70s Jazz thing without the steroids(' preamp, high mass bridge, etc.)........
This one is very light, at least a pound lighter than my mid 9 pound LM. It is very lightweight and sounds 'light' (i.e., that early Fender resonant, airy sort of tone). My Sadowsky MV published weight is 8.6 pounds, and this one feels lighter than that.
If I remember correctly, the bass Pete has now is about the same weight as my LM, so that could be some of the difference in tone, since the LG tha Pete has seems to have a bit more attack and that '70's fundamental' sort of thing, which I assume if a function, at least partially, of body density and weight.
Mine LG sounds like 'wood'... very organic with that classic Alder mid mid growl to it.
svtb15
Inactive
- Mar 22, 2004
- 13,004
- 4,741
- Disclosures
- I play it all. Whatever works for the gig. Q+
All i have to say is WOW
And i think the dots may be made of clay..but they have lines in them from being sanded... At least i was told that is what mine was on my LG.. just like the old fenders...
And i think the dots may be made of clay..but they have lines in them from being sanded... At least i was told that is what mine was on my LG.. just like the old fenders...
Here are a couple more pictures of the bass in more natural light. These do a better job of showing the color. It really is something. Lot's of depth to that color and finish. It is a different thing than the very bright, accurate, constant poly finishes I have on my other bass. This reminds me of the Guinness tagline 'it's alive inside' or whatever. There is an organic sort of thing to this finish, with some yellow dipping in and out of the green, etc.. I dig it! You can see a bit of that chocolate RW thing I was describing in the second picture. I assume the dots are maple, but not sure. They look nice!
I sure feel my LM gets close at 9.5 pounds. I do dial in just a smidge of low end from the pre, and given the sublte nature of Jimmy's pre, it sounds more like at adds 2 pounds to the body versus 'active bass EQ'.
All i have to say is WOW!
And i think the dots may be made of clay..but they have lines in them from being sanded... At least i was told that is what mine was on my LG.. just like the old fenders...
Ah, that makes sense. I saw the lines in the dots and it looked like wood grain. That makes sense. I would have assumed it was 'early Fender' appropriate clay, but those 'lines' fooled me. Cool! Thanks!
- Status
