Amp wise, I've always used an Ampeg SVT4Pro bi-amped to a 15" and 4x10. When I use a combo of amp EQ and onboard EQ, I get exactly the sounds I want from each bass, allowing them to all have the right voice.
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Getting antsy!! I am in the batch after next and my specs are coming along nicely, I will post some details later.
Question: what are Cliff's frets like?
Question: what are Cliff's frets like?
Frets? What frets?
My Rami 6 seems to have nice enough frets. I'm typically playing my CB fretli a little more.
My Rami 6 seems to have nice enough frets. I'm typically playing my CB fretli a little more.
Man, you guys can be a tricky bunch. I have been digging on smaller / narrow and considering the ol' mandolin fret
Cliff's frets seemed small-ish. I'm more about low action than fret size. As long as I get low action, I'm happy. I get low action on my Rami 6, so....that's about all I know.
He's always described them as "medium" in his spec sheets, which seems right if I compare them to a lot of other basses I have and have seen. They're definitely not the really small frets like you find on some vintage and reissue stuff, and they're not the big jumbo frets like on a 70's J bass (and some reissues).
Some folks like those I think because they feel it lets the fingerboard wood interact more with the tone. Some have said it makes for better intonation, but that's bogus because if the frets are properly crowned, you have the same intonation precision no matter how big the fret is.
Personally, I like the medium frets. Not enough distance to the board to feel almost scalloped (which can result in playing out of tune if you're not careful) and not so little metal that I'd be worried about fret life.
I have the super jumbo frets on one 75 style J, but that's for period accuracy because I feel that extra bit of metal there adds to that 70's sizzle. I have the smaller vintage style frets on a late 50's style P for the same reason. Pretty much the rest of my stuff is all medium, and I'm happy with that.
I'm in the batch after next, and I'm having a heck of a time finishing off my specs. I'm getting my first 5-string, strung EADGC. I'm considering a custom string spacing, 18mm at the bridge and 1.75" at the nut (as opposed to the standard 19mm and 1.875"), mainly for chords and because I'm so used the size of a 4-string neck. Anybody have any experience with a setup like this? Is there any reason I'd be better off sticking with the standard spacing?
One thing you may want to consider is the "recommended" string spacing above your pups. Different manufacturers say different things; i.e. I think Nordy's look for 19mm, whereas the Bart 59 S72 L1/LN1 work well with 15 - 17mm.
Pickups like the Nordstrands can be custom made for a particular spacing. Bartolini's use a blade design so you can choose just about any spacing.
My advice would be find your nearest guitar center and play a bunch of 5 strings with different spacings. Find what feels most comfortabe for you. Nobody can tell you what will be more comfortable for you.
Do you happen to know what type of cost incursion is associated with the custom Nordy's? My build is slated to have 19mm spacing due to the fact that Nordstrand's site states the std., spacing on the Fatstacks is 19mm ctc at the bridge. If I could get that down to 18mm I'd be a happier camper.
I don't. You should definitely ask Cliff. When you order a custom bass you should definitely get what you know will be most comfortable for you. Otherwise you may just feel the need to replace it after a short time to get what it is you really want.
Good to know. Thanks for the heads-up. I'd spoken to Adrian at Nordstrand before, and know that pre-amps can be changed a bit, but I hadn't thought of inquiring about pup changes.
At long last (thanks, Cliff!), I finally finished my specs. I'm in the build after next. Now the waiting begins...
4-string Ball-Bass
Scale length: 34"
Thickness at 1st: .81" (thin)
Width at nut: 1.5
String spacing at Bridge: 19mm
Neck: Modern
Fingerboard: Birdseye Maple
Fingerboard Radius: 16”
Nut: Stabilized Ebony
Top: Curly Makore
Accent: Thick .125" Flamed Maple
Core: Walnut
Back: Queensland Maple
Headstock Plate: Curly Makore
Hardware: Black bridge and knobs, chrome tuners
Bridge: Hipshot style “A”
Tuners: Hipshot Ultralite
Output: 1/4" face mount
Pickups: Nordstrand Big Split (neck), DC (bridge)
Pickup covers: Curly Makore
Controls: master vol, blend, passive tone
Switches: coil tap for DC
4-string Ball-Bass
Scale length: 34"
Thickness at 1st: .81" (thin)
Width at nut: 1.5
String spacing at Bridge: 19mm
Neck: Modern
Fingerboard: Birdseye Maple
Fingerboard Radius: 16”
Nut: Stabilized Ebony
Top: Curly Makore
Accent: Thick .125" Flamed Maple
Core: Walnut
Back: Queensland Maple
Headstock Plate: Curly Makore
Hardware: Black bridge and knobs, chrome tuners
Bridge: Hipshot style “A”
Tuners: Hipshot Ultralite
Output: 1/4" face mount
Pickups: Nordstrand Big Split (neck), DC (bridge)
Pickup covers: Curly Makore
Controls: master vol, blend, passive tone
Switches: coil tap for DC
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