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Club Bordwell Part 3

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I've already stated that I'm in the next batch. But reading what you guys have ordered reminds me of how I've changed about every aspect of my order. Cliff has been VERY pleasant with every new request/change.

Originally: Ball5, 35", 18mm spacing, Nordy dual coil PUs
Now: McNeely5, 32", 19mm spacing, Nordy MM & Jazz PUs
About the only thing that has remained the same is the wood: ash body with figure walnut top & claro walnut back and figured pau ferro fret board. Cliff is a prince among luthiers.
 
Insert drooling smiley face thingie here.

It's an extremely durable fingerboard. I have it on my Conklin. The last time I took it in to get a lose wire fixed, the repair guy was wondering if I played it since the fingerboard looks pristine. Years of roundwound abuse and it hardly has a mark.

Fingerboard materials can expand and contract, and my Conklin has only moved a hair in 5 years despite huge changes in humidity with my local climate.

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The sound is different from normal wood. It doesn't quite sound like a polyester/epoxy coated fingerboard, either. I know Roscoe uses it quite often and Zon uses phenowood, which is about how I approximate the sound.
 
Yeah. I have Dymondwood on my Roscoe fretless. Once you go Dymondwood, you don't go back to anything else on a fretless.

It's functionally superior to wood or coated fingerboards. Sonically, I find it to be very bright. I tend to prefer all flavors of fretless. As much as I like the Dymondwood with rounds, I love my Rob Allens with flatwounds and my CB with rounds and polyester coated fingerboard.

My CB 7 has a stabilized ebony fingerboard, which sounds like normal ebony to me. I haven't had it long enough to really comment on how it wears.

Now, if I could get Dymondwood to sound like Brazilian rosewood, I'd go nuts! ;)
 
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