• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Club Fbass (thread 13)

#1,281
image.jpeg
mngnt said:
I'm inching closer to pulling the trigger. Now I'm all anxious that I'm forgetting some detail I'll regret later.

Any advice? I'm pretty tall and large, so while I thought about requesting a "light" body, I don't think I need it. And perhaps some of the BN magic comes from the heavier body?
Click to expand...

Hi there, I own a BNF6 (actually, the color combination was inspired on @Gnal's BN5, red /black amazingness); while a different beast all together from a BN6, a few items to think about when you order:
- I think the piezo option adds incredible features to these basses; while an option that comes with an AC series, George will install piezos in a BN6 too: i would consider this option, will add a layer of clarity over the massive growl these bass have
- While I can adapt easily from 19mm to 16.5 mm string distance, these basses feel "big" to me. I would really give extra thought to that and if you are into fast chops, you may want to think 18 or 17mm
- If you plan to use an ramp, these guys will do grain matching... So now would be the time to think about it too.

Above or below the photo of my beloved BNF6
 
  • Like
Reactions: 31HZ, Bob_Ross, jim nolte and 6 others
#1,283
zortation said:
For a six, it would probably be better to stay with the standard weight. I owned a lighter body BN5 and boy did it sound punchy, but I had to replace the machines with Gotoh Resolites to bring the balance back to normal.
Click to expand...
I really do like the FBASS exposed core strings!!...sound great ...yet I found the major difference is the distance from the saddle...therefore...string through is imperative IMO..
 
#1,284
Thanks all for the help. I had replied earlier but ended up deleting it, as as I did more research the my whole thought process fell apart.

I'm not sure I want Piezo today, but may in the future. Should I request that the body is pre-drilled for wiring, if I do go that route some day?

Also regarding bridges. I was surprised to learn that A and B are different screw hole patterns, so looks like I need to decide now.
-In general, what's preferred? A or B? I like the simplicity of B, as I don't see myself changing string spacing much. (My current basses are 18.3mm and I'm happy to go wider)
-Can you get Piezo saddles for both A and B? I've found reference to "B" piezo setups, but no pictures, so I'm not sure if it's a mistake.

My deposit is in at my local dealer. Waiting on ETA/etc now! YEEHAW!
 
Last edited:
#1,285
mngnt said:
I'm inching closer to pulling the trigger. Now I'm all anxious that I'm forgetting some detail I'll regret later.

Any advice? I'm pretty tall and large, so while I thought about requesting a "light" body, I don't think I need it. And perhaps some of the BN magic comes from the heavier body?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure about the body weights, both of mine are 'around' 10 lbs.(one just above, the other just below); they feel about the same after playing for 2-2.5 hrs straight (rehearsal & service back-to-back).

As far as details, I really like the maple leaf serial number inlay and the recessed straplocks on my red BN5 but, its certainly not the end of the world that my second BN5 does not have them. If anything, the only thing I wish I had was a matching grain ramp like @thewildest has.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mngnt
#1,286
mngnt said:
Thanks all for the help. I had replied earlier but ended up deleting it, as as I did more research the my whole thought process fell apart.

I'm not sure I want Piezo today, but may in the future. Should I request that the body is pre-drilled for wiring, if I do go that route some day?

Also regarding bridges. I was surprised to learn that A and B are different screw hole patterns, so looks like I need to decide now.
-In general, what's preferred? A or B? I like the simplicity of B, as I don't see myself changing string spacing much. (My current basses are 18.3mm and I'm happy to go wider)
-Can you get Piezo saddles for both A and B? I've found reference to "B" piezo setups, but no pictures, so I'm not sure if it's a mistake.

My deposit is in at my local dealer. Waiting on ETA/etc now! YEEHAW!
Click to expand...

My preference is for the B style bridge due to its simplicity. I've had one bass with the A style bridge, and the bridge was one of my primary motivators to moving it along. Its a great bridge, but a little complex for my tastes.

edit: I don't have much experience with piezo pickups aside from acoustic guitars, so cannot comment on those questions.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jim nolte and mngnt
#1,287
mngnt said:
-In general, what's preferred? A or B? I like the simplicity of B, as I don't see myself changing string spacing much. (My current basses are 18.3mm and I'm happy to go wider)
Click to expand...

The B trumps the A in every single aspect. Tone, simplicity, setup. The less moving parts the better.

Also, as far as body finish, check out Fbass' "teaburst" colour. :)

ipunhwrjsodyocb0vpnw.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: TolerancEJ, bass08053, jim nolte and 3 others
#1,289
You are getting EXCELLENT advice, so I'll just confirm what others saying.

I use full wounds on my BN5 (with a maple board), but use F-Bass strings on my BN6 with an ebony board. My B-string on both basses is great.

One of the reasons for different strings on my BN5 and BN6 has to do with "softness" of the exposed core strings. The pull of the BN pickups is stronger than J-style single coils, so with exposed core strings, playing above the 14th fret pushes the strings very close to the strong pickups and get a chorus-y overtone sound when your strings are new. Consequently, with my BN5 I use full wrap rounds, and with my BN6 (which has a C string of course) I use F-Bass strings.

As for the weight, I fully trust George on that.

Were you thinking ebony or maple finger board?
 
  • Like
Reactions: jim nolte and mngnt
#1,290
Re: bridges. I swapped the stock aluminum b style on my old bn6 for a brass a style. The tone got a little quicker/punchier and slightly compressed. I eventually switched back to the stock bridge and preferred the more open tone of the aluminum b style. It fit the native tone of the instrument better.

Some of that was bridge material, but I think the bridge design/mass played a part.

Not exactly the question at hand, but hopefully interesting to someone ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: jim nolte, mngnt and Tom7
#1,291
AFAIK piezo is not an option a b style.

If you're thinking about adding piezo, I'd vote for a aluminum A style with steel or aluminum (not brass) saddles, to get closer to the stock bridge tone. I think you can specify not only the bridge material, but the saddle material.
 
#1,292
Tom7 said:
You are getting EXCELLENT advice, so I'll just confirm what others saying.
Click to expand...
Very true - the response here has been fantastic. What a great club to be in :)

Tom7 said:
I use full wounds on my BN5 (with a maple board), but use F-Bass strings on my BN6 with an ebony board. My B-string on both basses is great.

One of the reasons for different strings on my BN5 and BN6 has to do with "softness" of the exposed core strings. The pull of the BN pickups is stronger than J-style single coils, so with exposed core strings, playing above the 14th fret pushes the strings very close to the strong pickups and get a chorus-y overtone sound when your strings are new. Consequently, with my BN5 I use full wrap rounds, and with my BN6 (which has a C string of course) I use F-Bass strings.

As for the weight, I fully trust George on that.

Were you thinking ebony or maple finger board?
Click to expand...

In truth, some of my decisions have to do with cost. Which, as I think about it, is a bit foolish - I'd hate to regret a decision on an expensive bass like this over a $200 savings...

Currently I have Maple on order. I typically prefer the feel of Rosewood (which I have on my Strat) or Ebony (which I have on my Acoustic). But, my Jazz Deluxe is maple and it's OK.

I sorta figured I'd stick to maple since that seems to be the "F-Bass" way. Though I'm not a slapper, so now I'm reconsidering...

Can you highlight the differences between Ebony and Maple in your experience?
 
#1,293
J.Wolf said:
Re: bridges. I swapped the stock aluminum b style on my old bn6 for a brass a style. The tone got a little quicker/punchier and slightly compressed. I eventually switched back to the stock bridge and preferred the more open tone of the aluminum b style. It fit the native tone of the instrument better.

Some of that was bridge material, but I think the bridge design/mass played a part.

Not exactly the question at hand, but hopefully interesting to someone ;)
Click to expand...

This was good info. I wasn't sure which came stock. Sounds like George makes good decisions all around and I just need to trust!
 
#1,294
thewildest said:
Above or below the photo of my beloved BNF6
Click to expand...

Holy crap, that is gorgeous!

Apologize if this got answered/discussed upstream, I just checked in on this last page... What prompted your decision to go with the Hipshot metal bridge rather than the wood acoustic guitar-style bridge George puts on many of his fretless basses (or at least on the AC6)?
 
#1,295
J.Wolf said:
Re: bridges. I swapped the stock aluminum b style on my old bn6 for a brass a style. The tone got a little quicker/punchier and slightly compressed. I eventually switched back to the stock bridge and preferred the more open tone of the aluminum b style. It fit the native tone of the instrument better.

Some of that was bridge material, but I think the bridge design/mass played a part.

Not exactly the question at hand, but hopefully interesting to someone ;)
Click to expand...

We put the question of brass vs aluminum bridges to the Invalid Link Removed. Spoiler alert: George's thoughts on brass vs aluminum very closely match what you heard.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 31HZ, Tom7, jim nolte and 1 other person
#1,296
tombowlus said:
We put the question of brass vs aluminum bridges to the Invalid Link Removed. Spoiler alert: George's thoughts on brass vs aluminum very closely match what you heard.
Click to expand...

Nice! Good to know my ears still work, a little :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Growling Woods and tombowlus
#1,297
Bob_Ross said:
Holy crap, that is gorgeous!

Apologize if this got answered/discussed upstream, I just checked in on this last page... What prompted your decision to go with the Hipshot metal bridge rather than the wood acoustic guitar-style bridge George puts on many of his fretless basses (or at least on the AC6)?
Click to expand...

Thank you! My "I must get me one of these basses moment" happened at FBass' show-room in Hamilton; I went there looking for a fretted bass, and then, just because I was there, I asked George: "can I try this one?", a beautiful BNF6 that was hanging and it took 1 millisecond for me to fall for it... That one had this type of bridge and since I wanted exactly the same config, that was the specs I ordered. With time I also have learned to appreciate its simplicity, as I mess with the setup quite often (I play with super low action) and like to get it to where I want quicker.

All the best
 
  • Like
Reactions: jim nolte and Bob_Ross
#1,300
Dave Hill said:
Deets!
Click to expand...
Nothing too crazy here, but TBH I find the "simple" F-Basses stunning as well:
Standard spec Ash/Maple BN6, brown burst, black hardware.

My "nitpicky request" was that the burst come inwards enough so that it meets the bridge & knobs. I've seen a few brown burst finishes where it doesn't come in as much as I'd like and there's still some "light" outside of the bridge/knobs. Actually, looks like the F-Bass page has both.

Not that one is "better" than the other of course, but I prefer this:
2016-09-07 15_24_31-Settings.png


Over this:
2016-09-07 15_24_43-Settings.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: Randyt, TolerancEJ and bass08053

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back