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Club Moollon

SHELL PINK!!! Yeah, man. If you're looking for a superb passive P, the P4 is SO much better than the Nash, Blues Man Vintage, Custom Shop and anything else I've played. YJ truly is a pre-CBS fanboy that has gotten it SO right. Proprietary pickups, 20 hand applied nitro coats, and for the me the kicker is producing his own tuning keys and bridges. All of this coupled w/ his love for pre-CBS gear and the result is perfection. AND the price points are VERY reasonable, IMHO. If for some reason you can't make peace w/ it, you can always sell and get back 75% of your investment. My 2 cents....worth every penny.
All sounds excellent!! Thanks again for sharing your experiences with them, I love getting the firsthand accounts from players who own them. Haven't heard a bad thing yet.

I'm happy to say that I've received a quote and I'm going for it!! Working on getting an order in for a P Classic IV :hyper:

Still having a hard time choosing between the Shell Pink and Surf Green. That's the only thing I'm still deciding on at this point. If I got Surf I'd go with a mint guard. Shell Pink I'd go for both tort + extra mint guard.
 
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All sounds excellent!! Thanks again for sharing your experiences with them, I love getting the firsthand accounts from players who own them. Haven't heard a bad thing yet.

I'm happy to say that I've received a quote and I'm going for it!! Working on getting an order in for a P Classic IV :hyper:

Still having a hard time choosing between the Shell Pink and Surf Green. That's the only thing I'm still deciding on at this point. If I got Surf I'd go with a mint guard. Shell Pink I'd go for both tort + extra mint guard.

There is no wrong answer. Think their shell pink is fabulous. The surf is spot on but for me if I was going that way, I’d get Sea Foam. Just more defined. Color aside, it’s going to kill.
 
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Surf green and tort is a personal weakness of mine. Thats what i would do. Andi will send you pics with the pickguard overlays as long as he has the painted bodies already.
He sent me some examples of a Surf Green with tort and it did look great! I asked if he may have any examples of the Surf Green + Mint combo, that might help me decide.

There is no wrong answer. Think their shell pink is fabulous. The surf is spot on but for me if I was going that way, I’d get Sea Foam. Just more defined. Color aside, it’s going to kill.
I'm honestly digging the Shell Pink a lot. Looks so classic to me. I like Sea Foam too, but I like how Surf is a little more muted. Moollon offers a ton of great colors though.. I'm surprised I was able to narrow it down to these 2!
 
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SHELL PINK!!! Yeah, man. If you're looking for a superb passive P, the P4 is SO much better than the Nash, Blues Man Vintage, Custom Shop and anything else I've played. YJ truly is a pre-CBS fanboy that has gotten it SO right. Proprietary pickups, 20 hand applied nitro coats, and for the me the kicker is producing his own tuning keys and bridges. All of this coupled w/ his love for pre-CBS gear and the result is perfection. AND the price points are VERY reasonable, IMHO. If for some reason you can't make peace w/ it, you can always sell and get back 75% of your investment. My 2 cents....worth every penny.

Kenny knows what’s up. I’ll add US Lakland, Sadowsky, and Alleva Coppola’s to the list based off direct comparison.

Andi has incredible customer service and truly makes you feel like family. None of the elitism I’ve dealt with in the past by other companies. Specifically “certain” companies that are charging low to medium pre-CBS prices, but shall remain nameless...
 
The fret job wasn't perfect on mine either and the finish on some of the hardware and the body wasn't great, but I got in touch with Andi and they made it right. I also noticed that the neck pocket isn't super tight, but I'm not sure if that matters or even if it's intentional. It sounds fantastic though, and brings huge smile to my face when I play it out.

I would definitely reach out to Moollon and see what they can do.

Anyone else noticed that the finishes are super super delicate on these? More so than other nitro finishes I've had? I worry about chipping of the paint near the bridge every time I change the strings and my neck has a couple dent from where I tried to use my fingernail scratch a spec of dirt off of it. I worry everytime I play it out that I'm going to ruin it!
 
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Anyone else noticed that the finishes are super super delicate on these? More so than other nitro finishes I've had? I worry about chipping of the paint near the bridge every time I change the strings and my neck has a couple dent from where I tried to use my fingernail scratch a spec of dirt off of it.

The fret job wasn't perfect on mine either and the B string isn't super useable either but despite all of that it does bring a smile to my face when I play it in a band.

Yeah the finish is pretty delicate. I wouldn’t say any more or less so than other nitro’s I’ve had. I know there are a ton of coats of lacquer on their similar to what Fender used to do, maybe even more. The chips at the bridge are definitely a problem. YJ makes these bridges himself and I think the holes are slightly lower than on standard Fender Vintage Style Bridge.

I’ve got more than a few nicks and scrapes in mine which can be frustrating but also feel like true to the Fender philosophy during the period these basses are emulating, these are instruments for working musicians. Fender solved that issue somewhat by moving to poly finishes.

I’ve had mixed experience with fretwork. My JV and J IV have both been pleked, PV and P VI have not. The PV fretwork is perfect. I did have to have fret ends trimmed on PV and JVI but I attribute that more to weather diffferences than manufacturing defect.

As for unusable B string, that has not been my experience at all. I find the B’s on both my V’s to be better than any others I’ve played on a 34” scale bass. What size is your B string? I’ve found .125 to be best.
 
Yeah the finish is pretty delicate. I wouldn’t say any more or less so than other nitro’s I’ve had. I know there are a ton of coats of lacquer on their similar to what Fender used to do, maybe even more. The chips at the bridge are definitely a problem. YJ makes these bridges himself and I think the holes are slightly lower than on standard Fender Vintage Style Bridge.

I’ve got more than a few nicks and scrapes in mine which can be frustrating but also feel like true to the Fender philosophy during the period these basses are emulating, these are instruments for working musicians. Fender solved that issue somewhat by moving to poly finishes.

I’ve had mixed experience with fretwork. My JV and J IV have both been pleked, PV and P VI have not. The PV fretwork is perfect. I did have to have fret ends trimmed on PV and JVI but I attribute that more to weather diffferences than manufacturing defect.

As for unusable B string, that has not been my experience at all. I find the B’s on both my V’s to be better than any others I’ve played on a 34” scale bass. What size is your B string? I’ve found .125 to be best.

I deleted my comment on the B string (before I saw your reply) because I went to play the bass to double check and thought it was way to strong. I have a 130 at the moment, I'll try going lower. I remember that the B on your P5 was killer!
 
Anyone else noticed that the finishes are super super delicate on these? More so than other nitro finishes I've had? I worry about chipping of the paint near the bridge every time I change the strings and my neck has a couple dent from where I tried to use my fingernail scratch a spec of dirt off of it. I worry every time I play it out that I'm going to ruin it!

Yes. I have a four year old J-Classic V, and during the first 6 months or so that I had it it got some battle scars just with normal, careful use. The finish hardened up over time as it cured, but it is still pretty delicate. Part of that is just the nature of thin nitro finishes, but I think it's also a result of the process used by Moollon, which doesn't seem to produce finishes that are as impervious as other nitro finished instruments that I own or have owned.

Re. protecting the finish behind the bridge when changing strings, I always hold down a business card or similar object in place when I'm guiding the ball end through so it can't drag on the finish. I've started to do this on all of my basses, but it's especially important with the Moollons because the clearance for the ball end is pretty minimal. There's a similar issue with adjusting the truss rod. I basically just gave up on trying to protect the finish while adjusting it, as even with the proper tool it was almost impossible to avoid marring the finish. I've seen since that they offer a truss rod channel as an option - seems like that should be a standard feature.