Boo-tay for days on that recording. Can only imagine what some studio treatment could do!
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
You can make anything sound good in a studio, That's walking on to an unknown stage with an instrument and a cord, unknown crew, no sound check, backline rig, "Jesus take the wheel and let's do this"
I guarantee you the bass plugged in prior and after didn't sound like that. They never do.
deepestend
Commercial User
- Feb 21, 2003
- 6,249
- 8,171
- Disclosures
- Website and Social Media at Sadowsky
We shield the pickup cavities and control cavities in NYC basses.
I've owned a few boutiques, and Sadowsky shielding is as good as it gets if not better.
Real world anecdote: there have been numerous warnings about coated strings causing buzz/hum. This is because the coating can break the ground contact between strings and bridge saddles (and between hands and strings too, I guess). Roger himself has warned about this. Gotta say though that I've been using coated strings (Elixir Nanowebs, DR Neons) on my NYC P5 for many years, and haven't had an issue -- and I'm a guy that loves sizzly, overdriven tones where noise would immediately be noticeable. It might help that the pickup on my P-only P5 is a fully-humbucking split-coil, but regardless, I'm impressed.
The caveat about coated strings is absolutely valid; I don't mean to rebut that. Bottom line is that my Sadowskys stay quiet even in crappy conditions.
Hmmm, now you've got me thinking about Super J's...
Nah..do yourself a favor and have roger tweak the rout and throw a set of his single coils in the box when he ships it. Those things are impressive as **** and an alder / RW instrument with or without the preamp and run up the middle are the most dead silent PU's I've ever run into
Is there still a sadowsky gallery somewhere? I can't find a link on the site other than a small list of recently sold.
Thinking about colors for an NYC 20 fret J
Alder / roasted maple / braz.
Thinking about colors for an NYC 20 fret J
Alder / roasted maple / braz.
deepestend
Commercial User
- Feb 21, 2003
- 6,249
- 8,171
- Disclosures
- Website and Social Media at Sadowsky
We are still rebuilding our old "sold" gallery. If you have something in mind, email Peter and he can send you some examples.
gravesbass
Supporting Member
- Aug 16, 2006
- 2,427
- 1,871
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: DarkglassElectronics-SpectorBass-Dunlop-EMG Pickups-Hipshot
I am looking forward to that old "sold gallery" rebuild page refresh myself.
deepestend
Commercial User
- Feb 21, 2003
- 6,249
- 8,171
- Disclosures
- Website and Social Media at Sadowsky
Good to know that people are looking for it! We now have easy access to all of the old photos, so we should be able to do it sooner than later.
Hey, @deepestend --had a maintenance question. (Posted it here, figuring others might want to know, too.)
I leave the serious repairs to a real tech, but I do my own basic setups--relief, action height, pup height, intonation. When I'm working on a bass with a single-action truss rod, if I want to take some bow out by tightening the truss rod I'm in the habit of pulling back on the headstock a little to "help" the rod, and snugging the truss rod nut down to where I've gotten the neck. I understand that's better than asking the nut to force the neck back, on its own.
First off, amiright about that?
And...does the same logic apply to double-action rods? That's what Sadowskys have, yeah?
I leave the serious repairs to a real tech, but I do my own basic setups--relief, action height, pup height, intonation. When I'm working on a bass with a single-action truss rod, if I want to take some bow out by tightening the truss rod I'm in the habit of pulling back on the headstock a little to "help" the rod, and snugging the truss rod nut down to where I've gotten the neck. I understand that's better than asking the nut to force the neck back, on its own.
First off, amiright about that?
And...does the same logic apply to double-action rods? That's what Sadowskys have, yeah?
Not necessarily. If you're playing in dodgy conditions and getting some noise from the single coil J, you can go 100% P. I preferred HB just so I wouldn't have to worry about it.
Bumping your question because I've never gigged a Sadowsky PJ.
Thanks. I had a Sadowsky 5, and greatly preferred the SC's in it. Didn't know how one would interact with a P.
I think its a nordstrand HC in the current PJ set. Its incredible and plays great with the P. A single in a PJ would never fly in my pleasantly obsessive little world ...
I have a local builder making me a PJ5 with a nord NP5 and a big rig with a Sadowsky pre. It's heading to finishing now.
It is not that coated strings cause hum...it is that most of them cannot reduce hum when you touch the strings.
All Sadowsky instruments have single rods.
Also, the only reason to flex the neck while adjusting is to help the neck settle into the new position. You do not need to help the rod do what it is meant to do.
Sadowskys have strong, independent rods that don't need no help from you.
