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Club Sadowsky!!!

Roger do you think the P body vs the J body in a P/J will have significant tonal difference??

I do not think it affects the tone. Some players are more comfortable with one body shape over the other and that is the only difference that really matters.
 
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Oh my. Arrived from Japan. Translucent white. “Used” 2015 model. Not a scratch. Pickguard plastic still on. Weight 8.42 pounds. Setup perfect. Tone MONSTROUS. Somebody pinch me. :hyper:

Part of the same family, now...

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... I'll pinch you, at the reunion.

(Congrats on the acquisition!)
 
I am continually blown away by this amazing bass:

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I'm currently playing in a latin ensemble and last week we had a rehearsal where I took a Lakland.

The Lakland is a great bass in its own right, but I was playing through the house amp and I just thought the amp sounded terrible. It was so bad that I planned on loading up my Phil Jones cabs and head and taking those with me to rehearsal tonight.

I ended up working late and didn't have time to get my own amps loaded up so I grabbed the Sadowsky and headed to rehearsal with the house amp.

Just for the heck of it, I turned off the EQ on the amp at the rehearsal studio and just used the onboard Sadowsky EQ with a few tweaks and BAM! It was like I was playing through a completely different rig! My Sadowsky sounded absolutely amazing and several band members commented on how much better the tone was.

Yet another reason why I love Sadowsky preamps!
 
Long ago I used to own 1 bass and take it to a tech for setups.
Over the years I've bought and sold a heap and currently have 8 - 2 NYC Sadowsky J's and some cheapies and bitsa's.
I couldn't afford to have a tech setup all 8, especially after moving back to tropical Australia from the UK.

The old magazine setup article of Roger's (links on TB somewhere) and other posts here regarding string and pickup height etc. have saved me zillions.
As for relief - what Roger says.

There is a Gary Willis book where he mentions holding down 'A' at the 1st fret and holding the string with an elbow at the end of the neck then tap the string in the centre of the neck. Mr Willis suggests a credit card of relief at the centre. Works for me - although I've had dead flat (zero) relief on my NYC's before now, they're so good.

Here's the link to Roger's setup article: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
I was pretty tentative about doing my own setups for years, and paid for some setups that I didn't like. Once I saw Roger's setup tips (bookmarked here) and started using them, I began taking care of my own basses. Having the guidelines helped me understand that my preferences for neck relief, string height, and pickup height are pretty standard and easy to take care of myself. I follow Roger's settings verbatim, then adjust to taste if needed. For example, I tend to hit the E string a bit hard so I'll raise that a 32nd higher or so. I've been experimenting a bit with the height of the J in my PJ setup too. The setup guidelines provide a baseline setup that works. Any change I make I can always go back. Thanks Roger!
 
I am continually blown away by this amazing bass:

View attachment 3162734

I'm currently playing in a latin ensemble and last week we had a rehearsal where I took a Lakland.

The Lakland is a great bass in its own right, but I was playing through the house amp and I just thought the amp sounded terrible. It was so bad that I planned on loading up my Phil Jones cabs and head and taking those with me to rehearsal tonight.

I ended up working late and didn't have time to get my own amps loaded up so I grabbed the Sadowsky and headed to rehearsal with the house amp.

Just for the heck of it, I turned off the EQ on the amp at the rehearsal studio and just used the onboard Sadowsky EQ with a few tweaks and BAM! It was like I was playing through a completely different rig! My Sadowsky sounded absolutely amazing and several band members commented on how much better the tone was.

Yet another reason why I love Sadowsky preamps!
I’ve had similar instances, where the Sadowsky preamp compensates far beyond expectations for a crappy house amp, or a room with a muddy, boomy sound. So much versatility, especially once you get the hang of the VTC!
 
There's also a really good roundtable at one of the BPL Live events with Mike T. and Roger discussing setup, workings of the trussrod, etc...


Thanks for that link! Hadn’t heard that before. My two favorite luthiers. By a long shot.

Every bass player would do well to give that video a good listen. Many Q’s correctly addressed, which we discuss repeatedly on TB. Outstanding.
 
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It was interesting to learn that there's almost no chance of trussrod breakage. That said, I thought the danger was damage to the neck wood. A friend of a friend carelessly overtightened the trussrod on his Gibson SG and put a crack in the wood on the back of the neck, within the first few frets. I wouldn't be surprised if that's less of an issue with basses, but.... Roger @Sadowsky, what do you think?
 
It was interesting to learn that there's almost no chance of trussrod breakage. That said, I thought the danger was damage to the neck wood. A friend of a friend carelessly overtightened the trussrod on his Gibson SG and put a crack in the wood on the back of the neck, within the first few frets. I wouldn't be surprised if that's less of an issue with basses, but.... Roger @Sadowsky, what do you think?

It has nothing to do with basses vs guitars. On a traditional single truss rod, the rod is installed in a curve and the closer it is to the back of the neck, the better they work. So usually, there will be no more than ⅛" of wood between the back of the neck and the truss rod....the deepest point being around the 7th fret. This always becomes an issue when someone asks you the reshape their neck and make it thinner....as you have no idea how close to the back of the neck the rod is. I personally have reshaped a few necks where I went too far and hit the truss rod channel....or got so close that it cracked under the truss rod. There are other truss rod designs where the rod sits directly under the fingerboard, so this is not an issue. However, I am committed to an old style rod....I think they work and sound better. I am also not a fan of thinner necks either. I find them less comfortable to play and honestly, the chunkier the neck, the better the sound. I have been very happy with the neck thickness and we have used on our basses and have received very few requests to make any changes in that regard.

Roger
 
It has nothing to do with basses vs guitars. On a traditional single truss rod, the rod is installed in a curve and the closer it is to the back of the neck, the better they work. So usually, there will be no more than ⅛" of wood between the back of the neck and the truss rod....the deepest point being around the 7th fret. This always becomes an issue when someone asks you the reshape their neck and make it thinner....as you have no idea how close to the back of the neck the rod is. I personally have reshaped a few necks where I went too far and hit the truss rod channel....or got so close that it cracked under the truss rod. There are other truss rod designs where the rod sits directly under the fingerboard, so this is not an issue. However, I am committed to an old style rod....I think they work and sound better. I am also not a fan of thinner necks either. I find them less comfortable to play and honestly, the chunkier the neck, the better the sound. I have been very happy with the neck thickness and we have used on our basses and have received very few requests to make any changes in that regard.

Roger


This guy ... I dunno ... seems like it ain't his first rodeo.