Actually, I don't believe that to be true. The nuts are manufacture with the grooves already cut. All the tech has to do is raise or lower the nut to get the desired clearance.
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+1
I mean the gap is something that no one will ever see and I don’t really mind given the upgraded functionality. I surely didn’t notice any effects on the tone, the punch and sustain on my bass is incredible!
I also forgot to mention another upgrade/feature.
Living in Canada meaning that the bass will see drastic changes in temperature and humidity. Fret sprout was a problem on my Japanese Metro.
The invisible fret technology will surely help in this aspect. See picture below.
On the other hand, my NYC has absolutely no problem dealing with the changes. I don’t even need to adjust the truss rod.
I have used several iterations of Warwick's JAN (adJust-A-Nut). It's a great concept with many evolutionary improvements. Changing strings one at a time (my standard practice regardless of JAN) avoids the "nut falling out." String tension holds the JAN in place. It's intentional and by design.
I'd definitely keep the JAN on a new Sadowsky if I was fortunate enough to have one. If someone hates the JAN, it's such a simple and inexpensive replacement modification, and not worth losing a moment's sleep.
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If that’s so, the slots have to cut to some standard measurements, no?
I get it your a hard pass on the JAN. I’ve owned a few Warwick’s like the feature, I just could never bond with their necks.
The string notches are pre-cut on the Just-A-Nut. Fine-tuning a nut is actually one of the most challenging things in guitar making. Where you ultimately want to be is "one file stroke" before "one too many". Most factory nut slots are cut on the safe side and can usually go lower. This really enables the player to fine-tune the nut to his attack without the danger of going "too far".
I meant precut to certain usable measurements and then the individual players can adjust to taste. I agree fine tuning is a delicate procedure.
I feel that JAN gives players that option of fine tuning without the problem of filing too much.
The Just A Nut certainly speeds up production, I'm sure. I'd rather have a skilled luthier, such as Roger, slot the nut to the correct depth with a traditional nut. For me it's just more elegant. For a skilled craftsman to go through all the trouble of making sure the neck pocket is tight and mated squarely to the body for the purposes of tone, as the reasoning has been described, but then have a nut that is just floating seems counterintuitive. I certainly understand the purpose of the JAN and why some like it, though.
The nut on the fodera standard I had was too high. Would have been really happy to see a just-a-nut vs shipping it to NY for a tune up. On a “team built” type bass its a good insurance policy.
Sometimes you feel like a nut...sometimes, you don't...
Trussrod: I have never need to adjust truss rod on my main basses. (A 5str Blade, and a 6 str TRB6 sold already). It is a little bit weird reading in Sadowsky topic... maybe just didn't felt the necks such much to adjust... I only have the M5-24 for 6 months.
even if you're putting simply a new set of the same thing on? if so, that's not the case for me, but of course totally understandable if the strings are different.
Your neck needing adjustment for seasonal or humidity changes is no big deal, this is normal. Having to adjust your truss rod, no matter how many times a year, doesn't signify a quality issue or a problematic neck. Wood is organic and will always move to some degree no matter the care a luthier puts in to selection and preparation. Some who have never had to adjust their neck may not be as sensitive to the movement and relief that others are. I'm very sensitive to the relief of the neck but I have a range of toleration that allows a neck to move a bit without me needing to make an adjustment. On the other side of that, I did have a Lakland once that I was always tweaking, sometimes making adjustments during a gig. That I would say was a problematic neck.
The only truss rod tweaks necessary for me are when switching to/from a radically different string set: e.g. from a standard (medium) string set to something like TI Jazz Flats or LaBella Low Tension flats.
But I'm not that particular about action, as WorkTheWood noted just above. I'm a support bassist, and never try to blow anyone away with speed when I do get a solo (minority of gigs). I've been pushing my chops a bit at home since bubbling in mid-March... but we're only talking intermediate Geddy/Flea/Mars; nothing close to Jaco/Victor.
@Sadowsky - I tried the wet paper towel wad on the ding overnight as you suggested. I think there was *a little* progress. Should I put anything on the exposed bare wood? My finish/refinish skills are beginner-level at best, lol..
