Club Sadowsky!!!

[Vic]

@Sadowsky - I tried the wet paper towel wad on the ding overnight as you suggested. I think there was *a little* progress. Should I put anything on the exposed bare wood? My finish/refinish skills are beginner-level at best, lol..

View attachment 4089347

while we wait for roger's input...

someone once told me heat+moisture will swell the wood, like maybe a CAREFULLY applied soldering iron to the other side of a wet cloth or something, then let it dry, CAREFULLY sand the raised grain back down smooth, and then protect it with some kind of wipe on poly or lacquer. i welcome correction from roger and crew on that, but maybe also check the stewmac web site for tips/tricks for repairs like this too.

 

[BluesyCat]

while we wait for roger's input...

someone once told me heat+moisture will swell the wood, like maybe a CAREFULLY applied soldering iron to the other side of a wet cloth or something, then let it dry, CAREFULLY sand the raised grain back down smooth, and then protect it with some kind of wipe on poly or lacquer. i welcome correction from roger and crew on that, but maybe also check the stewmac web site for tips/tricks for repairs like this too.

TWSS!!!

 

[Shaggai]

OK, figured the Box pic was enough suspense. I like to thank Roger and his craftspeople for making this for me, since he's here and watching:

Was in a practice funk, and nothing to help get out of that than new bass. Feels like having a fine tailored suit compared to buying off the rack in regards to the other basses that I own. Incredibly light, 8.13 pounds. Makes my Vintera Jazz seem like a boat anchor, and that's at 9#2oz. Wasn't the first one he made like this. The other guy with one was definitely more famous than me.

 

[Spidey2112]

while we wait for roger's input...

someone once told me heat+moisture will swell the wood, like maybe a CAREFULLY applied soldering iron to the other side of a wet cloth or something, then let it dry, CAREFULLY sand the raised grain back down smooth, and then protect it with some kind of wipe on poly or lacquer. i welcome correction from roger and crew on that, but maybe also check the stewmac web site for tips/tricks for repairs like this too.

I did it on a kit I built, but with a steam iron and a wet handkerchief. Upon receipt, I noticed a crease on the back of the unfinished neck. Applied the wet hankie over the crease, and then the iron a little at a time... the crease slowly disappeared. Sanded it smooth (I believe while it was still damp), let it dry before applying a nitro finish to it.

Serious... other than valedictorian of my 1st grade class, one of my better accomplishments.

 

[Vic]

TWSS!!!

 

[Fran Diaz]

OK, figured the Box pic was enough suspense. I like to thank Roger and his craftspeople for making this for me, since he's here and watching:
View attachment 4089816
Was in a practice funk, and nothing to help get out of that than new bass. Feels like having a fine tailored suit compared to buying off the rack in regards to the other basses that I own. Incredibly light, 8.13 pounds. Makes my Vintera Jazz seem like a boat anchor, and that's at 9#2oz. Wasn't the first one he made like this. The other guy with one was definitely more famous than me.
View attachment 4089823

Really great looking bass. Let me know if you want a club number, please.

 

[GregC]

OK, figured the Box pic was enough suspense. I like to thank Roger and his craftspeople for making this for me, since he's here and watching:
View attachment 4089816
Was in a practice funk, and nothing to help get out of that than new bass. Feels like having a fine tailored suit compared to buying off the rack in regards to the other basses that I own. Incredibly light, 8.13 pounds. Makes my Vintera Jazz seem like a boat anchor, and that's at 9#2oz. Wasn't the first one he made like this. The other guy with one was definitely more famous than me.
View attachment 4089823

Great-looking bass! Who's the gentleman below?

 

[kobass]

Great-looking bass! Who's the gentleman below?

That would be the late great Greg Lake.

 

[Shaggai]

Really great looking bass. Let me know if you want a club number, please.

Many thank. Yes, if you could set me up with a number, that would be great.

 

[Tieiririyi]

OK, figured the Box pic was enough suspense. I like to thank Roger and his craftspeople for making this for me, since he's here and watching:
View attachment 4089816
Was in a practice funk, and nothing to help get out of that than new bass. Feels like having a fine tailored suit compared to buying off the rack in regards to the other basses that I own. Incredibly light, 8.13 pounds. Makes my Vintera Jazz seem like a boat anchor, and that's at 9#2oz. Wasn't the first one he made like this. The other guy with one was definitely more famous than me.
View attachment 4089823

Is that a rosewood fingerboard?
It’s a gorgeous bass!

 

[Shaggai]

Is that a rosewood fingerboard?
It’s a gorgeous bass!

Alder body, Brazilian rosewood fretboard.

 

[SzunaP]

Just-A-Nut is a plus option which is makes easier the setup I think. If anyone bothered by fallin out at string changing, maybe it could be a solution to change one-by-one - as it should be at the violin strings, keeping the bridge at position.

 

[Vic]

Just-A-Nut is a plus option which is makes easier the setup I think. If anyone bothered by fallin out at string changing, maybe it could be a solution to change one-by-one - as it should be at the violin strings, keeping the bridge at position.

YMMV but i've never really been a fan of AANs. That said, IMHO, changing strings one at a time is always a good idea unless you need to condition/clean the board or frets.

 

[G-MonRV5]

Same here. One or two strings off (max)at a time unless deep cleaning or conditioning the fret board.

 

[shai-ga]

A friend asked me this week to build him a ramp for his Sadowsky.
I had two wax sealed Asian ebony boards, so the final product was ready in 2 days.
Never actually used this wood for anything to this point, but it turned out really nice, with a Pau-Ferro look and an Ebony texture and feel. After dry polishing it to 12000 grit with micro-mesh pads, and setting it overnight with beeswax\carnauba wax on top, happy to show you the result:

The price was $75.

 

[Bergerman]

Nicely done, Shai-ga! Just curious...How did you attach the ramp to the body?

 

[Vic]

Nicely done, Shai-ga! Just curious...How did you attach the ramp to the body?

i bet he says double stick tape.

 

[shai-ga]

Nicely done, Shai-ga! Just curious...How did you attach the ramp to the body?

I did use 3m double stick tape that I use for routing templates.
It is a transparent thin super strong material. But I glued 2 pieces of it on each side of a glossy thick fine-art printing paper, to have some space between the ramp and the body, and also have it as a softer base for the ramp so it can be pressured better against the body.

3M Double-stick Tape | StewMac | Reverb

(Please Ignore all the sharp edges, all of them were sanded and polished)

 

[Bergerman]

Very cool...the paper sandwich idea is genius!

 

[shai-ga]

I also offered him to drill holes on top where the pickup screws are located, and to re install them on the ramp, but then it would be slightly in the air.
(A nice solution if you don't want anything to touch or be glued on the body)

This specific stick tape is easily removed with no marks.